christian dior

Exceptional Spring 1999 Christian Dior by John Galliano Black Bias Cut Silk Dress w Lace Detailing

  • This spectacular dress is a very rare piece from the Spring 1999 collection.
  • It was made under the creative direction of John Galliano
  • For this show the Dior Catwalk book noted that "Galliano took a trip on the Trans-Siberian railway and drew inspiration from Russian avant-garde as well as the Chinese red army."
  • A shorter version of this dress was shown in the presentation and then a long all silk version without the lace inset at the front was presented. We have included both so you can see how this will fit on the body.
  • This is one of his signature bias cut dresses and it is absolutely stunning.
  • The dress falls from two straps that curve up and over the shoulders. The front falls in a soft curving drape and then the back is scooped low to leave your upper back bare. The draped front is a clever way to add shape while still keeping the entire dress soft and with little formal structure.
  • Behind the draped silk of the bust is a second halter cut bodice made out of black lace. As the front drapes down this lace peeks out from behind it.
  • Set just underneath the bust is an angled ribbon of lace that is just over an inch and a half wide. This angles up towards the centre of the bust and then runs around the back.
  • Another panel of lace highlights the seam that the lower skirt is set into and then the entire hem is finished with the same lace. I love how the placement of lace is done to highlight your shape.
  • None of the lace used has any backing so that once this is on the body you get a glimpse of skin through all of the lace parts of the dress. It is brilliant. 
  • The rest of the dress is made out of beautiful textured hammered black silk. The silk is a heavier weighted silk and it is completely cut on the bias. When you put it on it simply drapes over you and highlights every curve without ever being too tight anywhere.
  • It skims over the bust, waist and hips and then comes in slightly to where the bottom lace inset is done. The lower skirt flares out substantially under that and there are yards of fabric in that part of the dress alone. This gives you incredible movement when you walk and finishes the dress beautifully. This flowing hourglass shape was a Galliano signature and this one is absolutely spectacular.
  • The inner lining under the lower skirt is finished with yet another panel of black lace, and this peaks out from underneath the skirt. Perfectly tying everything together.
  • The dress is an exceptional example from his very early days at Dior. A true piece of fashion history.
  • The lace serves as the lining behind the draped front and then the rest of the dress is lined in a black silk except for behind the lace parts which are left unlined. It closes with hidden set side zipper. It is completely cut on the bias so there is a lot of movement and range to the fabric. It is an easy fit and the bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes I have put the range when laying flat in the measurements below. On a smaller frame it will drape more. I see a small scuff on the fabric here and there. Very minor and just mentioned for accuracy.
  • Tagged a vintage Dior FR40, GB12, US8
  • Excellent condition

Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 13" from top of shoulder to lace under the bust
Total length: approx 65" from top of shoulder to hem. The length may come up a touch once on because of the bias cut.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD5474

Reference Photos/Video: Spring 1999 Christian Dior.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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