nina ricci

Iconic Spring 2008 Nina Ricci by Olivier Theyskens Runway Look 36 Gold Metal Thread Dress

  • The twin of this dress walked the  runway for Look 36 for the Spring 2008 Nina Ricci collection.
  • It was made under the creative direction of Olivier Theyskens.
  • Karlie wore one for the Spring 2008 Nina Ricci Ad Campaign photographed by Sorrenti and Natalia was photoed by Meisel for Vogue that season in its twin. 
  • One is held in the MET Museums Collection and it is documented in the book "She walks in beauty" by Rizzoli Electa.
  • The strapless ball gown is something that is a signature of Olivier and that combined with this striking metal mix fabric in its deep metallic gold colour make this a stand out of the collection. It was the second to last look of the finale.
  • The dress is made out of a fabric that has actual metal thread in it and this gives it a very unique appearance and feel. When you first touch it, it has a slightly cool temperature to it. Then once on the body it warms up to match your body heat. It is fascinating. In person the colour has perhaps slightly more bronze undertone.
  • This fabric choice with its metal component is really what allowed him to manipulate and create the sculptural seams that the dress has.
  • The strapless bodice has a full built-in inner corset that holds the dress in place around you. The fabric is gathered over to one side where there is a little half bow sewn into place and then the tails of the bow sweep down to become part of the dress as they drape over the skirt and are sewn into place at the back of the skirt.
  • It skims over the hips and the skirt has elaborate draping to create the feel that you see in the photos. You can imagine that for this one he personally placed in each drape by hand to get the shape that he wished it to have.
  • The front skirt is set on a bit of a curve and the fabric gives it a soft slightly ruffled feel. This curves around and becomes offset to become the side train at the back. The trained part is long and ends in a point.
  • There is a high slit on the same side as the train and this lets the dress have extra movement when you move.
  • This is a phenomenal piece from his tenure at the Nina Ricci label and is extremely rare. I would be shocked if there are more than one or two examples other than this one and the one at the Met that exist and it may be the only other that exists. The amount of hand work in the dress tells me that this was a custom-made piece and made-to-order. It verges on Couture and I would consider it to be Demi-Couture.
  • The dress has a full structural inner corset that is cut and boned with an inner waist stay that hooks to close. The rest of the bodice down to the upper hip area is lined in a black muslin. The skirt is backed with a black silk netting and then there is an deep green grey silk chiffon that follows the full length of the inner train. The dress closes with a back zipper. I see a few repairs on the silk chiffon inner skirt. There is slight fraying around the edge of the bodice which I feel is unavoidable with this metal fabric. If I am being picky I would say there is some slight stress to some of the seams here and there and again this is a result of the metal fabric that it is made out of. Hand finishes throughout.
  • Being custom the dress has no size tag so please go by the listed measurements below.
  • Excellent condition with the minor notes above.

Bust: 17-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 10.5" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 57" from top of bodice to shortest part of the front hem and then the back extends another 39" past that
Slit: 33" from front hem up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD5832

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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