jean patou

Elegant 1960s Jean Patou by Michel Goma Black Wool Coat w Top Stitching Details

After the premature death of Jean Patou in 1936, his sister took over the house and eventually had other designers head the atelier. On the Jean Patou site the history of the houses designers is clearly laid out; 'Marc Bohan, born in 1926, made his debut with Jean Patou at the age of 18. He left the couture house to better find himself as the artistic director. He kept the legend alive from 1954 to 1957. He moved on to serve as the head of creation at the Dior house for the following thirty years. Karl Lagerfeld joined the fashion house as head designer in 1958 and left Jean Patou in 1963 to devote himself to ready-to-wear houses with whom he collaborated. Michel Goma remained at the head of the fashion house from 1963 to 1974. He developed ready-to-wear in parallel with his couture work. Jean Paul Gaultier began his career with Jean Patou during Michel Goma’s time there. He joined the studio in 1972 at the age of 20, completing his apprenticeship there. He left the house in 1974 to work at Pierre Cardin. Angelo Tarlazzi took over the reins of Jean Patou in 1974, succeeding Michel Goma. He left at the end of 1977 to start his own brand. During his time with Jean Patou in the 1980s, Christian Lacroix gave the brand a new life. Lacroix dared all the crossovers, unexpected combinations of colours, extravagant details (such as the famous tafetta hand-painted toile de jouy cocktail dress), and oriental inspirations reminiscent of those Jean Patou loved them at the time of his splendour. He received the prestigious Dé d'Or de la Couture award in 1986 for his work, before the fashion house ceased its activity in 1987 and Lacroix founded his eponymous house within the LVMH group.' After a lot of research I believe this to be an early example of the ready to wear collection debuted under Michel Goma's time there. It is a stunning coat and will forever remain a classic 

This is a lovely and classic feeling coat that is made from a slightly heavier weight black wool and this is what gives it its structure. It is cut in the manner of a longer pea coat feel with a more fitted upper body and then it flares out slightly through the lower half of the coat. Every line of this coat is fantastic. The collar is set to be oversized and sits across the front in this great curving notched affair that adds to the chic feel of this coat. A double row of buttons run down the front. The sleeves are long and each ends with the most amazing cuffs that are flipped over and notched on a curve to emulate the collar. All of the edges of the coat have been topstitched for a subtle detail that really emphasizes the lines and cut. This same stitching treatment edges the collar all the way around. Then it has a series of big thick round buttons that run down the front. It is very very well made and it is just incredible to see in person. The seams give it a wonderfully structured and sculpted feel and the dropped seam at the hip adds an interesting final detail. It is a gorgeous and chic vintage coat. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition 

Fully lined in a black silk and closes with the buttons at the front. Pockets hidden along the side seams. This is a medium to heavy weight coat and is beautifully made. Sizing is based on the shoulders and it is generous through the body so if you are small shouldered it may accommodate a bit larger size as well

Sleeves: 22"
Interior shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 46" from neck to hem


Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# C592

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.