chanel

Very Rare Fall 1986 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Blue & Gold Strapless w Removable Sleeves

  • This is a spectacular and very recognizable Chanel whose twin walked the Fall 1986 runway.
  • It was made under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld.
  • Karl's first collection for Chanel was in 1983 which makes this a piece from one of his early collections. I was happy to be able to find reference photos of the twin of this dress on the runway that season.
  • Bella Hadid famously wore a version of this dress in 2022.
  • The dress is made out of a beautiful deep blue netting mixed with a blue silk that has a gold metallic stripe running through it. These fabric choices give the dress the structure to hold the shape but still keeps it fairly light in weight once on the body.
  • The bodice is strapless and there is inner boning for support. The boning continues down the sides and to the top of the hip for a beautiful fit. The waist curves in and then the skirt is set in just at the top of the hip.
  • The entire bodice is finished with soft horizontal gathers and I love how this contrasts with the gold stripes in the fabric.
  • The skirt is very long and full. The top layer sits over an inner second layer of netting and then there is a inner silk layer under that.
  • The bottom hem is finished in a 12" band of the same striped silk used for the bodice to tie things altogether and add a bit of structure. 
  • The sleeves are incredible. They are separate pieces from the dress. To wear them you slip them over your arm. They have stiffened tulle inside the part that puffs out which helps to hold that shape and then there is a more fitted sleeve attached that runs down the bottom of your arm. Each sleeve ends in a point to cover the top of your hand.
  • It is incredibly hard to photo this on a dress form, so please take a moment to look at the photos on the runway as it really is the twin of that.
  • The bodice is lined in a deep blue silk and the skirt is lined as described above. It closes with a back set zipper underneath a row of gold medal buttons and embossed with the Chanel perfume bottle. There is an extra spare button sewn into the lining inside. The sleeves have tulle inside to help hold the shape and elastic on the upper arm and the lower cuff zips to close.
  • Tagged a vintage Chanel 38.
  • Excellent condition.

Sleeves: approx 30" long. The elastic at the top will stretch to fit. 
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hips: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: to 21.5"flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from top of the bodice to the low seam
Total length: 52" from top of the bodice to hem with an entire second width of the lower 12" hem turned under

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5133

Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 1986 Chanel Runway.  /  (3-4) Bella Hadid in Fall 1986 Chanel, Cannes, 2022.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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