azzedine alaia

Fantastic 1990s Azzedine Alaia Ribed Black Knit Mini Dress w Flared Skirt & Inner Boy Shorts

  • The dress dates to the early -mid 1990s (maybe the late 1980s).
  • It was made under the creative direction of Azzedine Alaia.
  • Azzedine Alaia pieces are always a delight to find. His knits were all self developed and are among the best out there. He started his career as a dressmakers assistant  and copied couture gowns for wealthy Tunisian clients. In 1957 he moved to Paris and worked for Christian Dior for a grand total of five days. He then moved to Guy Laroche and quietly started to get private commissions on the side. By 1960 he was doing mainly private work and within a few years established a small salon on the Left Bank where he continued designing privately. He stayed at that salon until 1984.
  • During this time period he also did private freelance work for other designers including Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler and even Yves Saint Laurent. It was not until 1981 that he launched his first official collection and by 1983 he had a boutique in Beverley Hills. 
  • The French Ministry of Culture honoured him with the Designer of the Year award in 1985. In 1993 he decided that the established fashion show schedule was not for him and he stopped producing a new collection every season. Instead he showed when his collections were ready and continued to do so until his death in 2017. 
  • This is a fantastic example of his earlier work and is still in fantastic condition.
  • The dress is made out of a ribbed cable knit fleece wool that has a small percentage of other components to help give it some stretch and support. This makes it sit beautifully over the body and hug your curves as his dresses are known for.
  • The neck is scooped and slightly squared off at the front and the shoulders are soft. From there the sleeves extend out over the arm and then the cuff flares out. I love the change in the design of the knit for the cuffs to add a little unexpected detail.
  • It skims over the bust and waist and then curves back out over the hips. The skirt starts just under the top of the hips and is cut short as it flares out around you. Many of his pieces had that bit of a skater skirt feel to them and this is a fabulous example of that.
  • The skirt has a slightly more scalloped ribbing than the knit of the body and the very bottom of the skirt changes once more to match the finish of the cuffs.
  • Hidden underneath the mini skirt is a pair of knit stretch boy shorts that snap into place underneath you.
  • These inner built-in shorts were a famous detail in his dresses and made wearing such short pieces without the fear of being exposed when you moved.
  • The dress is unlined with built-in shorts and closes with a hidden set back zipper. The shorts snap to close with three snaps. The knit does have some stretch and I have put the comfortable range when laying flat below.
  • Tagged a vintage Alaia medium
  • Excellent condition

Sleeves: 27.5" and they are 11.5-14" around the upper arms
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 22" from top of shoulder to the seam at the top of the skirt
Total length: 34" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD5564

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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