thierry mugler

Fall 1995 Thierry Mugler Couture Runway Sculpted Body Shape Black Silk w Ivory Inset Dress

  • The near twin of this rare dress walked the runway for the Fall 1995 collection with an added cape.
  • The dress was made under the creative direction of Thierry Mugler.
  • A version of the dress was included for the "Thierry Mugler: Couturissime" Exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum
  • Mugler was a masterpiece of draping and cut and this is a fantastic example of that. It is cut with Mugler's masterful eye and attention to detail.
  • The dress is very rare and special. It is spectacular on the body.
  • The dress is made out of a black silk mixed with an ivory silk set on a combination of angled and curving panels down the entire front. 
  • A wide set curving V comes down the front bodice. An ivory panel circles the neck line and then follows the V into a point that plunges to the centre of the waist. A small black silk flower sits where the two meet. The flower is a removable brooch so if you prefer it without it is easily removed.
  • I love how the parts on the bodice are a mix of curves and angles. The curving parts feel feminine and emphasize the shape of the body while the angles are more edgy in contrast. 
  • The sleeves come directly out from the shoulder with gussets underneath the arm and no set shoulder seam to break the eye. Each sleeve ends in a little turned up cuff of the same black silk.
  • The waist is snatched in and the insets of ivory visually exaggerate the cinched in shape.
  • The skirt has been cut to have a deliberate outward curve around the top of the hip. From there it flows down and over the hips and then narrows inwards as it nears the hem. A high slit up the back allows you to walk and lets a bit of a leg to show.
  • A second inset ivory silk panel runs down the full front of the skirt from the waist seam. It mimics that same curving shape that we see through the hip and also narrows down to the hem of the skirt.
  • The ivory parts that runs from shoulder to hem are all done to give the visual appearance of an exaggerated hourglass / wasp silhouette.
  • The dress is fully lined in a black silk and closes with a back zipper. The flower at the waist is pinned on and is easily removed. It appears to have worn very little effort at all.
  • Tagged a vintage Mugler 40
  • Excellent condition

Sleeves: approximately 16" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from neck to waist
Total length: 59.5" from neck to hem with just over 2.5" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD5634

Reference Photos: (1-3) Fall 1995 Thierry Mugler Couture.  /  (4) Outfit on display at the "Thierry Mugler: Couturissime" Exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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