• This is a spectacular and very recognizable Chanel whose twin walked the Fall 1986 runway.
• It was made under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld.
• Karl's first collection for Chanel was in 1983 which makes this a piece from one of his early collections. I was happy to be able to find reference photos of the twin of this dress on the runway that season.
• Bella Hadid famously wore a version of this dress in 2022.
• The dress is made out of a beautiful deep blue netting mixed with a blue silk that has a gold metallic stripe running through it. These fabric choices give the dress the structure to hold the shape but still keeps it fairly light in weight once on the body.
• The bodice is strapless and there is inner boning for support. The boning continues down the sides and to the top of the hip for a beautiful fit. The waist curves in and then the skirt is set in just at the top of the hip.
  
• The entire bodice is finished with soft horizontal gathers and I love how this contrasts with the gold stripes in the fabric.
• The skirt is very long and full. The top layer sits over an inner second layer of netting and then there is a inner silk layer under that.
• The bottom hem is finished in a 12" band of the same striped silk used for the bodice to tie things altogether and add a bit of structure. 
• The sleeves are incredible. They are separate pieces from the dress. To wear them you slip them over your arm. They have stiffened tulle inside the part that puffs out which helps to hold that shape and then there is a more fitted sleeve attached that runs down the bottom of your arm. Each sleeve ends in a point to cover the top of your hand.
• It is incredibly hard to photo this on a dress form, so please take a moment to look at the photos on the runway as it really is the twin of that.
• The bodice is lined in a deep blue silk and the skirt is lined as described above. It closes with a back set zipper underneath a row of gold medal buttons and embossed with the Chanel perfume bottle. There is an extra spare button sewn into the lining inside. The sleeves have tulle inside to help hold the shape and elastic on the upper arm and the lower cuff zips to close.
• Tagged a vintage Chanel 38.
• Excellent condition.

Sleeves: approx 30" long. The elastic at the top will stretch to fit. 
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at top of hips: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: to 21.5"flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 13" from top of the bodice to the low seam
Total length: 52" from top of the bodice to hem with an entire second width of the lower 12" hem turned under

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5133

Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 1986 Chanel Runway.  /  (3-4) Bella Hadid in Fall 1986 Chanel, Cannes, 2022.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

• This is original Haute Couture who's twin walk the runway for Fall 1985.
• The suit was made under the creative direction of Emanuel Ungaro.
• This would have been completely made by hand in the Paris atelier.
  
• This is a stunning two piece set done in a houndstooth black-and-white check on a fine wool feeling fabric.
• The jacket is a classic cut of his from this time period. It features wider set strong shoulders and is meant to feel more oversized through the upper bodies. The waist is cinched in with the double row of faceted dome buttons that sit at the front and the dramatic peplum under that. This cut is what gives you that fantastic exaggerated hourglass feel that the best of his work has.
• The front wraps over itself and buttons in at the waist. The collar is very wide and notched and covers almost the entire upper bodice. Under that the hips flared dramatically out all the way around you.
• The shape of the bottom peplum is achieved by having the panels of the jacket shaped and cut to widen out just under the waist. This gives you those brilliant little flares but without adding extra seams. It is the kind of detail you look for in a couture piece.
• The sleeves are full and they come down to a more narrow cuff detailed with four of the same facetted jet coloured buttons that are slightly smaller than the ones at the front. 
  
• The skirt has a band at the waist and then it is cut in a slim pencil shape to just pass the knee, depending on your height. Pockets sit on each hip and the pockets add a little bit of shape around the upper hip.
• Both pieces are fully lined in a handset black silk. The jacket buttons to close. The button on the sleeves are decorative. The skirt closes at the side with a zipper and hooks at the waist. The shoulders have padding. All of the hand work is to Haute Couture standards throughout.
• There is no size tag present so please go by the measurements listed below
• There are a couple nicks in the skirt at the front as seen in the photo added here. Otherwise excellent condition

Jacket
Sleeves: 22" and are full and open through the upper arm.
Exaggerated shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 20" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 26" from the waist to hem with 3" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD5129

Reference Photo: Fall 1985 Emanuel Ungaro Couture.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

• This dress has been dated by the one that is its twin and was part of the 2014 exhibit 'Chicago Styled'.
• Made under the creative direction of Thierry Mugler.
• The dress is made out of a light and weight metallic gold fabric that treats beautifully and is perhaps a touch paler than how it photoed here.
• The dress is cut with Mugler's masterful eye and attention to detail.
• The stripes that go up and over the shoulders are wide. On one side, the fabric is heavily gathered and hooks in at the waist underneath. On the other side, the dress comes out and is not as gathered so that it falls more over the top of the shoulder.
• The side with the wider shoulder is set into a panel that runs down the opposite side of the dress.
• This panel is finished with gold studs, and this is where the dress closes. The panel runs all the way down the side to where it splits for the hem, and there is a weight inside the base of the panel to hold the dress in place.
• The body of the dress is all gathered into that side panel and wrapped around you and then gathered into the panel at the back. This creates incredible draping down the body and around you.
• Because the panel and a few inches above the hem, you get this bit of a curve happening along the lower hem of the dress that beautifully picks up the curves that you see on the bodice
• This is a spectacular and very rare example of his work.
• The dress snatched to close when you see the studs at the side and underneath there is a hidden set zipper. A grosgrain ribbon wraps around the waist and is attached to the part of the bodice that tucks underneath the crossing over at the front and hooks to close inside the dress. It is very cleverly put together. 
• I love how the entire dress shimmers in the light because of the gold metallic fabric.
• The dress is partially lined through the bodice and fully lined through the skirt. There are little pads through the top of the shoulder, but it feels like they're padding has been removed at some point. It would be easy to add padding back in if you preferred a stronger shoulder.
• There is no size tag present so please go bye the listed measurements below.
• Excellent condition

Bust: approx 14-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hooked stay at waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam. Without the stay the waist is 13.75" flat across
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14.5" from top of shoulder to inner waist
Total length: 40" from waist to end of the side panel, 49" to the longest point of the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD5118

Reference Photo: Gold lame rouched evening dress, designed by Thierry Mugler, 1986. Shown as part of the Chicago History Muesum's November 2014 'Chicago Styled' exhibition.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

• We dated the dress to 1984 based on a very similar dress reference photo that we found.
• Made under the creative direction of Vicky Tiel
  
• The dress has the added modern provenance of being worn by both Julianne Hough and by Liz Gillies. 
• The dress is made of a metallic gold lame fabric that is light in weight so despite the elaborate construction of the dress. It is just heavy enough to hold the intended shape fabulously.
• The bodice is strapless and the entire dress is elaborately gathered and fitted around the bust with hand placed and gathered folds.
• There is a built in internal structure with light boning. The boning extends at the sides down and around the hips to help to hold the hourglass shape around the body.
• The waist is nipped in and then it curves out and over the hips.
• Under that the skirt falls in a straight long pencil silhouette with a vent up the back to allow you to walk and move.
• The gold glimmers in the light and it is one of the best Vicky Tiel dresses that I have ever had in the shop.
• Fully lined in a black silky rayon and closes with a painted metal and nylon zipper at the back. Boning through the bodice and sides.
• Tagged a vintage Tiel 38. 
• Excellent condition

Bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam w up to a B-small C at the front
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 51" from top of bodice to hem with about 1.5" turned under

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4868

Reference Photo: (1) Vicky Tiel in Town & Country magazine, December 1984.  /  (2) Julianne Hough in this dress at the NYC Ballet Spring Gala, 2023.  /  (3) Liz Gillies in this dress, November 2023.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

• A phenomenal dress whose twin walk the runway for the Spring 1980 YSL show.
• Made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
• The dress is made out of a feather light pink silk that has an iridescent metallic finish to it that catches the light beautifully.
• The neck line is set wide across so you can wear it off of the shoulder for a bare expanse of skin to show. A wide 7" ruffle follows the entire neckline and gives the prettiest flounce all the way around you.
• Under that the bodice skims down to a low dropped waist that is cut more generously through the middle. The dress comes with its matching silk tie belt that you can cinch in the waist as much as needed.
• The skirt is set into a slightly angled seam around the waist that comes up slightly at one side. Tiny gathered pleats are set in all along the seam and that is what gives the skirt its incredible volume.
• The skirt falls shorter at the front and longer at the back. If you were to lay this out and open the skirt it is more than a full circle around. That volume combined with the lightness of the fabric gives you incredible movement when you move.
• This is an absolutely stunning example of his work during this time period and one of my favourite pieces I have ever had in by him.
• The dress is unlined and weighs very little. It closes with a side set zipper and the tie belt is original to the dress.
• Tagged a YSL 36
  
• If I am being very picky there are perhaps a couple faded marks with some of the folds but you would never see them. There is an area near the front waist with a mark. Please see the photo after the label shot. It is fully covered once the belt is on.
• Overall excellent condition

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Total length: 45" from top of shoulder to front hem, 55" to the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5113

Reference Photos: Spring 1980 Yves Saint Laurent. Model: Dalma.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.