Rare c1955 Jean Patou Numbered Haute Couture Silk Dress
This is an exceptionally beautiful Jean Patou silk dress that is an absolute masterpiece. It is an important and early representation of both the house of Patou and the level of haute couture being produced during this time period. Jean Patou once said "Certain dressmakers desire to pass for an artist. I have one ambition: that is to have good taste." and this dress is the very epitome of that statement. The dress is numbered and is true haute couture piece that has been made entirely by hand and represents countless hours of dedicated hand work within the atelier. It is one of the most beautiful dresses that I have had come through my hands and the photos cannot begin to convey the detail and fine work that has gone into the creation of this piece. It is constructed from two silks - a rich black silk satin silk used for the bust, straps and hem and a fine black, pleated silk chiffon that lies between. The silk satin portions have hand done trapunto quilting for a 3D effect that is quite beautiful and the designs swirl against the background fabric. The bust is fitted and has a gentle curve up from the waist. The waist itself is hand gathered silk chiffon and the way it is done gives it a soft and romantic feel. Under this the skirt falls in a cascade of silk chiffon, weighted by the 8" hem of silk satin. The skirt is an absolute marvel. If worn with no underskirts it lies as shown, full but not overly so. This hides the fact that there is actually yards and yards of fabric in that skirt. I laid it out and shot it from above so you can see - it is not just a circle skirt but beyond a circles skirt with an excess of fabric that goes beyond even a true circle. With the addition of a crinoline underneath you can go as full as you wish. Without one you get a stunning semi-transparent feel that gives it a very modern twist. Really an extraordinary piece and I cannot even imagine the hours that it took to create this dress. Excellent condition.
The bodice has a hand set silk lining and is boned. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Closes with hand set fine painted metal zipper at the side. Attached inner waist stay. Numbered label 74.994. One of the interior boning is slightly breaking through its fabric holder but seems stable and this of course is only in the interior. This is listed in clean, odor free, as found condition as I don't like cleaning haute couture unless it is absolutely necessary. The details are even more beautiful in person
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 24.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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