Louis Mies

Fall 1976 Louis Mies Possible Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Pink & Velvet Bead Dress

This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. He designed many piece for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric direct. I have some new information that he might have sold actual couture pieces through his salon as well. So this may be an actual Yves Saint Laurent. Either way it is definitely the Fall 1976 dress that I have included several reference photos for here. That 1976 dress was especially interesting because it was also one of the dresses chosen to walk the 2002 retrospective show. It is beyond beautiful in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far. 

The level that this dress is made to is a beautiful thing to see. All of the finishes are by hand and it has all those lovely details that you expect in a couture level garment. It is made out of a combination of a pink silk taffeta for the skirt and a black velvet for the bodice. These fabric choices helps it to hold its intended shape. The bodice is more fitted and the neckline is cut wide across and you could potentially wear it off the shoulder like reference photos. It has an elaborate detailing of hand braided silk cord, beads and tassels that circle all the way around the neck. Another even more elaborate band of the same goes around the waist and falls over the top of the hips. The top is cut to follow your curves and the waist is cinched in. The sleeves are a work of art. Each is made on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. They are softly set into the shoulders and then taper down to the wrist. The skirt is equally well made. It curves out from under that elaborate beading and falls to the floor where it widens out as it nears the hem. Inside the skirt is a full built in black silk under-skirt. That inner skirt is finished with an edging of black velvet and it set slight below the top skirt in length. So when you move a certain way or sit you get just a glimpse of the velvet under the hem. This technique also helps to hold the shape of the skirt. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement the detailing on this dress is mind boggling. The interior is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included some shots of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk crepe chiffon. There is a built in black silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the side. Each sleeve buttons to close with a series of jet buttons and loops. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards. 

Sleeves: 25"
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to longest point of the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3809

Reference Photos: (1-3) F/W 1976 Couture Yves Saint Laurent. (First two images by Barry Lategan. Book image from "Yves Saint Laurent: Icons of Fashion Design" by Schirmer/Mosel.) /  (4-6) Spring 2002 Couture Yves Saint Laurent.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.