Fall 1974 Louis Mies Couture YSL Silk Taffeta Dress w Hand Embroidered Velvet Rose Detail
This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. He designed many piece for the Queen of Brussels and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric direct. This dress is based on the Fall 1974 gown that Yves Saint Laurent showed that season. The fabric has changed and I think this fabric is better then the silk moire taffeta of the runway piece. It is more wearable for a modern woman in this stunning rose detailed silk. It is beyond beautiful in person and one of my favourite personal pieces.
All of the finishes on the dress have been done by hand and it has all of those lovely details that you expect in a couture dress. It is made out of a black silk taffeta and this fabric choice helps it to hold its intended shape. On the main body of the dress the silk has been finished with hand embroidered roses. These are made with a chenille velvet thread that is worked through the silk to form those spectacular large roses that cover the entire dress. Scattered over and around the roses are dots that are made with the same chenille. This gives the dress an incredible 3D texture and they also add a lovely and romantic touch. The neckline is scooped low across the front and the it buttons to close under that. There is an elaborate set of snaps and hooks that follow the waist line and carry over to the side where there is a hidden set zipper. The top is so well made I think you could choose to wear the scoop to the back even. It skims over you and the waist nips in. The sleeves are gorgeous. Each is constructed in the proper tailoring manner and are set on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. At the shoulders there is a series of soft pleats that creates that bit of volume you see there. The skirt is equally well made. It curves out from the hips to fall to the floor, widening out beautifully as it nears the hem. Inside the skirt is a full built in silk under-skirt that gives the skirt the volume that you see. The inner skirt is finished with an edging of black silk ruffles and it set slight below the top skirt in length. So when you move a certain way or sit you get just a glimpse of the ruffles at the hem. I think my favourite detail though is the precise and unusual rolled pleats that circle the waist. Each is made by hand and each perfectly matches its neighbour. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement these would be mind boggling. All of the inner seams are finished by hand and I have included some shots of the inner seams for you to see how beautiful they are. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk crepe chiffon. There is a built in black silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with silk covered button and loops down the front. At the waist there is an elaborate series of silk covered snaps and hooks that close along the waist line and then it zips at the side with a hidden set fine metal zipper. There is an inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is at least an inch and a bit of fabric on either side of each inner seams through the bodice to let it out if needed. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem with 3" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference Photos: Fall 1974 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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