jean louis scherrer
1975 Jean Louis Scherrer Haute Couture Lesage Embroidered Top or Jacket
This little embroidered and beaded silk jacket from the Jean Louis Scherrer atelier is absolutely divine and a once in a lifetime find. In all of my years of having some of the finest pieces of vintage couture pass through my hands I can easily say that this is one of the most magical pieces that I have had. Having its runway documentation reference photo makes it even more special. Jean-Louis launched his own label in 1962 after assisting both Christian Doir and later, Yves Saint Laurent there. He designed for Louis Feraud from 1959-1962 as well. He studied fashion at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in Paris and his career path was always with the intention of opening his own couture house. In 1971 Scherrer was officially granted “Haute Couture” status. His Haute Couture work was some of the most expensive you could buy at the tome and women happily paid. British Vogue to christen him “The Aladdin of Couture” and in 1974 he told Vogue “You can use marvelous fabrics, have wonderful, impossible embroidery – in fact, be superluxe, and superluxe is what the couture is all about.”
The jacket is made from a fine ivory silk that is covered with some of the finest embroidery and bead work that I have seen. You can see in the reference photo that it has been produced exactly as it was shown on the runway. The embroidery work is remarkable with accents of the tiniest beads and sequins, mixed with metallic gold silk accents, all of which would have been applied and created by hand by Lesage to the exact specifications of Scherrer. The design itself is slightly raised and the use of the beads, lame and sequins give the entire thing a very subtle glimmer in the light. It closes down the side under the edge that you see offset and then falls perfectly into place. The sleeves are exceptional with a high cap and pointed edges. It is entirely made by hand as Haute Couture dictates and the workmanship that would have went into creating that fine embroidery and bead work cannot be surpassed. A masterpiece and it appears to have never been worn. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in an ivory silk and closes with silk covered snaps under the offset edge. Completely made by hand. Couture number 004200. Padding in the shoulders. It appears to have never been worn. Measurements are taken on the interior.
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 29.5" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference Photo: Jean Louis Scherrer Ensembles, 1975. Photo by Jean-Luce Hure.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.