yves saint laurent
Iconic Spring 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Runway & Ad Campaign Plunge Dress w Jewel Clasp
- The twin of this dress in red walked the Spring 1985 runway.
- It was made under the creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent.
- The red version was used for the 1985 ad campaign shot by Helmut Newton that featured his long time muse Kirat Young.
- This is one of the iconic pieces of that season and I am very pleased to have found this deep blue one. I feel like the darker colour makes it slightly less scandalous feeling and it is something you could wear more often.
- These were made in two versions for production, a more modest cut version that was produced in greater quantities and then the deeply plunged dresses that stayed true to the runway and are harder to find.
- The dress is made from a beautiful deep blue silk jersey that has enough weight and drape to it so that is falls perfectly in the sharp angular lines that Yves wanted it to be shaped in.
- It is a beautiful representation of this time period with its precisely shaped strong shoulders and how the shape of it narrows in as it reaches the hem.
- The dress is cut to skim over the body. It hooks and snaps to close at the waist in behind that spectacular gold and jewel clasp.
- The low cut V of the front is if course what makes it so edgy and the addition of that strong shot of gold at the waist makes it an instantly recognizable piece of YSL.
- The clasp is based on a Robert Goossen design and suggests coral or branches, each tipped with a glittering rhinestone.
- The centre is a large faceted glass stone and this hides the hooked clasp behind it that brings in the waist. The fabric is gathered in towards that clasp to give you shape while still keeping it very easy to wear.
- The dress skims over you from shoulder to hem and each sleeve is long and cut to mimic the shape of the body of the dress by having them be cut wider at the shoulders and then narrow down to the zippered wrist.
- It is amazing on the body and just a beautiful and iconic piece of his work.
- The dress is partially lined through the upper bodice in a matching blue silk chiffon with the rest of the dress unlined. It slips on to wear and hooks in at the waist behind the jewel with a flat hook & eye. The keyhole under that closes with hidden set snaps. There is an attached inner waist stay to help hold the dress in place around you. The waist measurement below is based on that inner stay. If you needed more room, you could easily add to it or remove it. I have added the exterior waist measurement for you as well. Each sleeve zips to close. Padding in each shoulder. The fabric does have stretch so should work on various body types, stretching to accommodate curves and draping on smaller frames. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
- Tagged a vintage YSL 36
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 24" and they are 16" around the upper arm
Shoulders: to 15.5" but meant to be slightly exaggerated
Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Exterior waist: 13.5-15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam and the current attached inner waist stay is 26.5" from hook to hook.
Hips: 19-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 44.5" from neck to hem and the plunge is 17" from neck to the inner hook.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD5653
Reference Photos: (1-2) Spring 1985 Yves Saint Laurent Runway. / (3) Kirat Young for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Spring 1985, shot by Helmut Newton, Vogue US March 1985. / (4) Another shot from the same shoot used for other publications that year.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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SIZE GUIDE
Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.






















