nina ricci

1990s Nina Ricci by Gerard Pipart Haute Couture Black Off Shoulder Dress w Hand Quilted Floral Skirt

  • This dress best matches the look of the collections that were being done in and around the late 1980s to the early-mid 1990s. 
  • It was made under the creative direction of Gerard Pipart.
  • The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932 at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris. In 1964 Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Pipart, who had previously worked for Balmain, Fath, and Patou, brought a wide range of experience in all aspects of fashion to the brand. 
  • Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' He headed the Couture division until 1998.
  • This is an incredible and very beautiful piece of Haute Couture and would have been made entirely by hand in the Paris atelier.
  • This dress is a masterpiece and really showcases how beautiful a piece of true couture can be. Everything about its construction goes above and beyond.
  • It is made out of a black silk for the bodice with a black silk netting used for the sleeves. This is combined with top stitched silk on a dotted netting for the the top layer of the skirt. 
  • The bodice curves and dips across the front and then wraps around to the back. There is inner built-in structure to hold the dress in place and add shape so that it is fitted around you. The silk has been gathered into a seam running vertically down the front and then it does the same thing at each side and the back. A panel wraps over the top of that across the breasts with no seam down the sides. A clever way to subtly add some extra shape and curves. It is fitted to the waist where it nips in.
  • The sleeves are spectacular. I have set them slightly on top of the shoulders on my dress form but they can be worn fully off of the shoulders. There is an elastic that is tacked on their insides to help hold them in the spot that you choose to wear them. I love that you can wear them higher up or wear them completely off the shoulders so that you get that gorgeous expanse of bare skin across the top. They are made from layers of silk netting that have been gathered tightly and stacked on top of each other to form the gorgeous bit of fluff and volume that you see.
  • The skirt is just extraordinary. It is very full and voluminous as it curves outward and down to the floor. To achieve that shape there is elaborate layers of built-in underskirts that is all hidden. The very top layer is made out of a black dotted net. Onto that are beautiful sprays of flowers and leaves.
  • These have been created by a hand cut outs of silk in pink, purple and white that were hand applied to the netting. Top stitching in a black thread is done onto each piece to create the illusion of flowers and leafs. All of the top stitching is entirely done by hand and I cannot even imagine the hours this would have taken to complete.
  • That very top layer has an attached inner layer of silk organza and the way that it is attached gives it a bit of volume and air between the top layer and that underlying organza. 
  • Underneath that are six layers of tulle stacked on top of each other. All of those layers are what gives the skirt the support needed to hold its volume and shape. We have not added any crinolines under the skirt. All of the volume is created because of the brilliant infrastructure underneath. If you had the underskirts lightly starched when pressed in the future it would give an added boost and you could create even more fullness.
  • As good as it looks here in the photos it is even better in person. 
  • The dress is fully lined in a handset cotton muslin through the bodice and closes with a back set zipper. An inner waist stay hooks to close. There is hidden boning and support through the bodice. I see two small repairs along the edge of the hem. It is minor but mentioned for accuracy. 
  • The proper Haute Couture label is present.
  • There is no size tag since it is a couture piece. Please go by the measurements below.
  • Excellent condition

Bust: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from top of bodice to waist
Total length: 54" from top of bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD5584

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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