christian dior

Stunning Fall 2005 Christian Dior By John Galliano Runway Black Velvet Jacket e Belt Detail

On the runway this jacket was shown in a gold colour for Look 33. I love this black version but I also love having that runway photo and video so that you can see how fantastic this is on the body. In the review of the show Vogue noted that Galliano  was focussed on wearability and the commercial aspect of this show. Many of the looks were based on the last Couture show and then he focused on making it into ready-to-wear. Jackets were the centre point of the collection and Vogue said that; "he started with black and white striped laddered Edie Sedgwick mohair knits worn with baker-boy caps flat pointy crocodile knee boots and fishnets. Those quickly became a device for showing off the staple jackets Galliano has brought to the party: cutaway tail coats, biker jackets with Napoleonic collars, and his reinterpretation of Dior's seminal New Look Bar jacket. From there, he segued into shearling aviators, and brown crocodile and leather, sending out a high-belted maxi coat that knowingly checked another box on the season's trend sheet. Next up: gorgeous russet, dusty-pink and burnt-orange velvets followed by dresses in silver/gray, delicate pink, and grape, distilling the rococo delicacy of his couture into believable party wear." The velvet jacket noted in their review is of course  the runway version of this one.

I love the softness and romance that this jacket has, but don't let it softness fool you because to achieve that look there is master level construction behind it. The shoulders are lightly padded and the sleeves are inset with small gathers so that they have a slight capped effect. The sleeves are long and each one ends with a button cuff. Once on, they puff up slight above that cuff. The softness of the velvet allows it to drape over you and at first glance it feels unstructured but when you look at the seaming inside you see the high level of tailoring that has gone into achieving this effect. There are panels on either side of the front that actually sit up and off the jacket and are connected to the collar and then at the waist. The waist is gathered in at the front and there is a separate belt that comes with the jacket that you can add more shape with or leave looser and easy. Under that the hips flare out and I love how the fabric is gathered in and under the hem so there is slight bit of volume there. Inside the edge of the hem there is even a touch of inner padding to emphasize that shape. The jacket has the slouchy feel of a 1920s piece and the choice of fabric adds to that feel of it being an older piece. It is quintessentially John Galliano and it is stunning. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a black silk and buttons to close at the front with hidden set buttons. Each cuff buttons to close and the belt also buttons to close. Tagged. a US8, speechGB12, FR40, IT44. 

Sleeves: 25" and 12" around
Slightly inset shoulders: 13.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam and can be cinched with the belt 
Bottom seam: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MeD

Item# DD4595

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2005 Christian Dior, Look 33. Model Kamilla Wawrzyniak.

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