Spring 1998 Alexander McQueen 'Untitled' Collection Blue Detailed Pinstripe Suit
This collection was featured in the video we have included here for 'Throwback Thursdays with Tim Blanks'. In the introduction to the video Blanks states: "The designer was famous for his runway spectacles, but this one in particular lingers with our Editor-at-Large, not because it featured a rookie model by the name of Gisele Bündchen, but because of its extraordinary emotional resonance. 'It's proof that he was a magician.'". Vogue's review of the collection that year explains how the name of the collection became 'Untitled'; "While there was plenty of pain in Alexander McQueen's work, there was usually pleasure, and often some poetry as well. Such was the case with spring 1998’s Golden Shower show, renamed Untitled when the sponsors balked at the lasciviousness of the former title. Models walked down a runway made of water-filled Lucite tanks wearing tight snakeskin dresses and tailored intarsia suits. They were dressed in all white for the finale and were treated to a shower that made their mascara run and their all-white clothes see-through."
This suit is one of the the versions produced from that show and mentioned in Vogue's review above. His very early pieces are more rare and this one is a fabulous find that is still extremely wearable and highly collectible. It is in remarkable condition and is a bold statement piece. The fabric is the same as a men's suiting and it has a blue pinstripe that runs through it. Depending on the light, the base looks either black or a deep deep blue-black. The lining is a periwinkle blue so when the jacket opens you get a flash of that bold color. On the pants the blue is used even more boldly, borrowing from the runway, with a wide inset ribbon in a blue checked wool insets into the fabric. This inset of fabric runs down one leg and then another wraps all the way around the hip. The tailoring has a strong nod to a menswear suit in its cut and the the lines are precise. The trousers are flat fronted and straight legged. The jacket has a beautifully tailored cut with a notched in waist line and strong shoulder. I love how he has set the two buttons on each cuff right at the bottom edge of the sleeve and that the cuffs on the pants are precisely 1 1/4". Excellent condition
The jacket is lined in a fine grade periwinkle silk. It closes with buttons at the front. Each cuff has two buttons and the buttons holes are finished but decorative only. There is an extra button sewn inside the waist band. Pockets at each hip of the pant and hidden pockets lie along the seam of the jacket. There is also a buttoned interior pocket and one exterior pocket on the breast. Both pieces are tagged a vintage McQueen 44 but check actual measurements below for sizing
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from neck to hem
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 41.5" from waist hem
Inseam: 31.5" from inner seam to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference photos: (1) Alexander McQueen S/S 1998 Runway. / (2) Amanda Lee Shirreffs by Erin Leydon.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.