christian dior

Spring 1961 Christian Dior Demi-Couture Pink Linen & Silk Dress Suit

This wonderful little dress and jacket set bears the Christian Dior New London label, making it a beautiful and early example of the Dior labels history. This is from the Spring of 1961, an important year in Dior's history as this would have been Marc Bohan's first collection for the house. The collection was called 'The Slim Look', and was noted as being a 'simple, young and streamlined style - his modern take on the New Look'. You can see a striking similarity to the design in the examples shown here from the Haute Couture collection from that same year. This set is from the Modele Original line which would have been custom made based on the Haute Couture presentation and special ordered through Harrods in this case. It is numbered and was made with many of the same high standard finishes that the Haute Couture pieces incorporated.

Bohan's inspiration for Spring 1961 was the 1920s. He underplayed the bust and dropped the waistline. Skirts had a slight flare and the jackets were soft and slouchy. It was a huge commercial success and a critical one as well. Here was have a set is made up of two pieces, an inner, sleeveless, dress with a soft cut jacket. Both pieces are made of a beautiful coarsely woven linen and silk mix that is just heavy enough to hold the shape but without adding any bulk or excess weight. In person the pink color is even richer and deeper then how it has photoed and is quite lovely. The cut of both pieces are wonderful. The dress is cut in a long sheath that gently flares out as it nears the hem. Slits are set on each side of the skirt so you get a bit of extra movement when you walk. It is sleeveless which is perfect for the warmer months and the waist is cut loose and easy. The front has a bibbed panel set over the inner dress. The detailing on it is remarkable - even though it is attached each of those buttons and button holes is 100% functional - though they serve no purpose in being so other then to have made the piece 100% properly. The neckline is a simple and collarless. The matching colored jacket sits over the dress and it too is kept simple but with immaculate seaming and top stitching creating the only detailing. It has no closures and is meant to sit softly on the body with little structure. It is beautiful and a remarkable example of his work during this pivotal collection for the house. Excellent overall condition with some minor notes below.

Both pieces are lined - the dress in a matching silk organza and the jacket in a hand set ivory silk. The dress closes with a back hand set painted metal zipper and the jacket has no closures. Hand finished throughout with silk covered seams in areas. The pockets on the jacket are functional. The pink color is deeper and much much better then how it photoed. Please note the following - the inner silk organza of the dress has some small tears and parts of it are missing through the upper bodice. It does not affect wearing it in anyway and rather then remove it I prefer to send as found. The jacket shows mild discoloration around the arms which does not go through - please review the photo provided after the shot of the label. There is the slightest grubbiness to the arms on the dress but very very minor and they would not photo even.

Sleeves: 17.5"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 17"
Bust: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from neck to hem

Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 43" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3188

Reference Photos: (1) Model in Dior, Vogue, March 1961.  /  (2) Dior Haute Couture Presentation, Spring 1961.  /  (3) Dior 1961. Quotes from the book Dior Catwalk 

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.