Rare c.1969 Yves Saint Laurent Floral Cotton Canvas Brocade Spy Coat
This wonderful coat is an exceptional piece of the early work that Yves was doing for his Rive Gauche line. This is from the time period of those very first few years of the label and it is wonderful to have it come into the shop. I found a shot of Jane Birkin that appeared ion the March 1969 issue Vogue and the coat is strikingly similar in cut and line. In 1969, Yves was quoted as saying; "My dream is to make things that can be mixed together; a coat is only beautiful, for me, if a woman can buy it and wear it with anything." I believe that this is just the kind of coat he meant when he designed it.
The lines of the coat are wonderful and if it was full length I would have been tempted to coin it as a Great coat silhouette as it has that same fitted upper body and flared skirt that those coats have. Though this shorter length does give it a bit of a Spy coat feel I think. It is made out of a cotton twill that has a canvas feeling finish to it. This has then been lightly coated and parts of the design have an almost painted feel to them. That is layered over a floral print that is worked directly into the weave of the fabric. The combination of the fabric and its technique is unusual and quite beautiful. The colors are a deep muted red that is mixed with deep corals and navies. The backdrop color changes as it works it way over the coat and the pattern is laid out in horizontal strips that emphasize the cut of the coat. The upper body is fitted with long slim sleeves. The collar is huge, it ends in large points and covers the entire upper bodice with its size. This is a design element that you see Yves use through the next several seasons. The waist is brought in under that and then the skirt flares out. Big slant pockets sit on each hip with pointed flaps over them. The back is vented so that the flared silhouette is kept as you move. This is a fabulous piece of Yves early work for the Rive Gauche line. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a deep gold silk. It buttons to close at the front as seen and has an interior side tie as well. Pockets on each hip and light padding through the shoulders. There is some minor grubbiness and very slight change of color the lining here and there. Tagged a 42 but cut small.
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 40" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Reference Photo: Jane Birkin in YSL, Vogue, March 1969.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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