Rare 1971 Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin Blue Floral & Red Checked Pant Jacket & Hat Set
I recently had a red checked set by this same label in the shop and that one ended up going to museum. It's very exciting to have a second set in the shop so soon. This is a very rare example of the work of Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin. The two young women were staunch feminists and they were determined to launch a label without having to have a male name on the masthead. They quickly became known for their tailoring, lean cuts and outerwear. In 1962 Vogue featured one of their pieces and their customer base instantly expanded outside of London. Their work was featured regularly in the 'Young Ideas' section of British Vogue. The label closed in 1972 and pieces from the label are a very rare find. This is a highly documented set from 1971. The V&A holds an example in a similar fabric and we found photos of both a skirted version with the same jacket and a dress/pant set done in the same fabrics. British Vogue also ran a story that season using pieces from the collection.
This was a key label from the British Fashion movement and this is a rare example of their work from right before they stopped producing the label. In the September British Vogue editorial on their work these sets were described as 'Pajama' sets that were meant to be worn outdoors. The first thing that strikes you about this is that it was made by hand and has an arts and crafts feel to it. You can easily imagine the young pair of designers making it themselves in their studio for some client. The pants have a flat front and zipper and are cut straight and wide all the way down to the hem. They will be cropped depending on your height. The jacket slips on and ties to close at the front. It is cut straight through the body and the sleeves are the cropped to just above the elbow. A large front pocket sits on either side. The fabric used for both pieces is a royal blue that has a bright floral print. Their signature red and off-white check has been used on the interior of the jacket, for the tie at the front and as edging. The top of the pants have a bit of a different red pattern to edge the waistband. All of the fabric has been top stitched into big quilted diamonds. The fabric gives it a touch of structure so that it sits on the body in a very straight and angular way yet the fabric itself is still soft and pliable. This set is extra special because it comes with its original hat. The hat is made from the red checked fabric on the crown and top brim. The blue floral fabric was then used underneath. It is seriously the cutest thing I have ever seen. Great condition
The interior of the pants are finished in a black cotton and the jacket is finished in the red checked fabric. The top slips on to the wear and ties at the front. The pants have a front zipper. It looks to have been worn very little if at all but still has a slight soft patina feel to it that I suspect was purposeful from day one. Some small areas of the quilting top-stitching has come off here and there on the interior.
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: widens out to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 35" from waist to hem
21.5" around with a rounded crown to 5" and the brim is 4"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Reference Photos: (1) 1971 Trouser Suit & Blouse by Foale and Tuffin from The V&A Collection. / (2-3) Credit Unknown. / (4-6) British Vogue, Sept 15 1971.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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