yves saint laurent

Iconic Fall 1996 Yves Saint Laurent True Haute Couture 'Le Smoking' Black Tuxedo Skirt Suit

Like the other suit I have today by Yves this one is also a Haute Couture piece. This one is documented and from the Fall 1996 collection. Supermodel Claudia Schiffer walked the runway in a pant version of it for that season. Having both reference photos and the video of that moment allows you to see the incredible tailoring and movement of the piece. For the runway it was shown with a pant. My client ordered it with a pencil skirt which gives it the benefit of being able to be worn day through to evening. Yves play on the tuxedo suit, most often called the 'Le Smoking' suit, is one of his most famous hallmarks. He first presented the now iconic suit in 1966. His play on traditional menswear is lauded by many as 'having empowered women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power'. 

There is nothing quite like slipping on a meticulously tailored piece of true Haute Couture. It feels different somehow then any other experience and the feeling is unlike any other. The suit is a meticulously constructed and is in pristine condition. It is sourced from the original couture client. These played on the lines of a men's tux and then were shaped and tweaked by Yves to be immensely flattering on the female body. The cut is masterful and its simple appearance is produced by his genius tailoring that is sharp and meticulous. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that follows the curves of the body. It has his signature matte satin notched tuxedo collar. This one's collar slightly exaggerates the classic men's version of a classic tuxedo suit. Yves produced many versions the this suit over the years but what I find remarkable is that each version is distinct in how it closes at the front and the way that the collar is shaped. This version closes with a single button below that amazing collar. Three pockets are top set on the front and the shoulders are sharp. The traditional mens suiting fabric has enough weight that it holds the lines perfectly once it is on. I love the row of three glossy black buttons on the cuffs of each sleeve. These are set with working buttonholes and that bit of gloss to the ends of the cuffs is fantastic. The skirt is cut in a simple pencil shape. There are small discreet belt loops on the skirt and these are made out of crocodile.  Once on, the suit transforms. You can see how beautiful the lines are from the runway photos and video that I have included here for reference. His suits changed the way we approach woman's wear and any example of the Le Smoking version is particularly collectible. They are a particularly wonderful example of how strong his tailoring was and vision for a woman's place in the world. This is a rare and iconic piece of documented YSL Haute Couture. Excellent condition

Both pieces are lined in a rich heavy black silk. The jacket has a single button at the front to close. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist. Three pockets on the jacket. All hand finished to couture standards. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. There are no tags present. Sourced from the original couture client 

Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27.5" from neck to head 

Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3557

Reference Photos: Claudia Schiffer for Fall 1996 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Setting up a layaway is super easy and we are happy to provide this service!

Here's how deposits work on a standard layaway:

  • We require three equal payments of the layaway total. You will be invoiced for the first amount upon request
  • payment two of the remaining balance will be billed two weeks from the date of the initial deposit.
  • The final payment is due two weeks after the second payment and shipping will be billed on this invoice as well.
  • items less then $500, or that are on sale, require a 50% deposit with the final payment due in two weeks from the date of deposit 

Read More

We offer flat rate Standard UPS shipping worldwide. All shipping options are displayed at checkout in the pull down menus provided.

Want it faster?

We offer flat rates for expedited and express shipping options - these will also display at check out and can be selected with the drop down menu during the checkout process.

Read More


Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.