Iconic Fall 1980 Possible Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Dress Patchwork & Velvet Dress
I am now on the second batch of very interesting pieces that are coming from a client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This dress was most likely made by in the atelier of Ady Couture who was based in Lausanne Switzerland. Ady herself was a couture trained seamstress and headed a team who had full permission of the Haute Couture houses she worked with to make the designs they showed in Paris for clients based in Switzerland and the surrounding areas. She would purchase the couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and then make the actual dresses in her atelier. This arrangement with the couture houses was a way to work around customs during this time period and do fittings for clients unable to travel to Paris. So far we have verified that she had this arrangement with Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but those are the four labels we have documentation on from the runway. She also did buy Haute Couture pieces from the ateliers so this may be an actual Yves Saint Laurent. She tended to remove the labels from the actual couture pieces from the ateliers. Either way it is absolutely the twin of the Fall 1980 piece that we all know of. There are so many references to this particular dress it was almost hard to include them all. It has been exhibited, photoed and is in several books on Yves' work. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is beautiful. A truly iconic piece of couture
The dress is made from a combination of that gorgeous patchwork appliqué for the skirt and a black silk velvet for the top. These fabric choices allow the dress to hold the beautiful lines that you see. The dress is absolutely stunning and a testament to the level of design that you only see in couture pieces. At the front the neckline is scooped and cut wide across. The sleeves extend out from the shoulders and taper down slightly as they reach each wrist. The bodice is made out of a silk velvet and is cut to skim over you. The waist is seamed and brought in further by the matching pink silk sash. This adds shape and I love the strong band of vibrant pink there. It compliments and allows the colours in the skirt to really pop The skirt is set into the waist in a series of soft gathered pleats that allow for the fullness that you see. The skirt curves gracefully away from the hips and widens out to be quite full as it nears the floor. It has an incredible amount of volume with several yards of the base black silk taffeta used in its construction. Onto the base fabric are those incredible patchworks. Each has been individually applied and they are fabrics that range from silks to velvets to crepes. It is incredible. All of the volume is created by the cut and the fabric alone. The interior of the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every single seam done by hand. I took a detail shot for you to see the fine workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and just beautifully made. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
The bodice is fully lined in a black silk and the skirt is unlined. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the back and there are hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The pink silk sash belt is original to the dress. slight wear here an there to the bottom edge of the skirt. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.
Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 4" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference Photos: (1-2) F/W 1980 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Collection. (Book photo from "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: Catwalk". / (3) F/W 1980 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Collection Board. / (4-6) Henri Matisse Homage in the Yves St. Laurent Style is Eternal Exhibition, Bowes Museum, 2015.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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