Highly Documented Spring 2004 Alexander McQueen 'Deliverance' Look 55 Patchwork Suit
This suit is instantly recognizable as an Alexander McQueen piece and it is stunning. The FIDM Museum has its twin on their permanent archives and they did a spectacular write up on the suit which I will share here; "Deliverance, Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2004 fashion show was the hit of the season. Based on the 1969 film, "They Shoot Horses, Don’t They?" Deliverance subverted the typical fashion show narrative by reversing the order of presentation; evening gowns kicked off the extravaganza while faux-homespun daywear and a tarnished evening gown concluded the show. This narrative mirrored the film, which documents a Depression-era dance marathon. In order to earn a cash prize the hopeful participants must dance for days with only brief breaks for food and short naps. Lack of sleep and food, paired with non-stop dancing, drives the dancers to the point of emotional and physical collapse and ends in tragedy... 20 trained dancers paired with 20 models, all of whom rehearsed for two weeks. Deliverance began with models and dancers moving about the dance floor with a sense of eagerness and purpose, dressed in delicate gowns. By the end of the show, the dancer/models struggle to stay upright while dressed in patchwork garments representative of their overall decline. Of course, Deliverance was a fashion show presented by Alexander McQueen, so even the patchwork garments were exquisitely crafted. The woman’s suit constructed of men’s cotton shirting seen below appears near the end of the Deliverance, worn by a model slumped on the shoulders of her dancing partner.... The emotional and physical deterioration in Deliverance is typical of McQueen’s work, which frequently explores themes related to violence and decay. Garments, particularly in his early collections, are often intentionally cut and torn and his fashion shows have been called a “theatrical staging of cruelty.”Though it almost seems counterintuitive, McQueen has expressed a strong interest in creating a feminine persona that is intimidating in its visual power. When examined closely, it is easy to view the FIDM Museum suit as an expression of McQueen’s interest in powerful femininity. The symmetrical patchwork resembles the patterning of an animal or insect and the small flounce at the lower back of the jacket references the stinger of a bee. Despite these obvious danger signals, the subtle and varied patterning of the textiles invites closer inspection, enticing the spectator as a spider lures an insect to its web."
The suit is identical to the one that walked the show. It has the additional provenance of having twins of it worn by Nicole Kidman, Jennider Colnnolly and Sienna Miller. The collection was also re-shown in LA in a special presentation the the Chateau Marmont. Few of these would have been produced and it is amazing to have such an wonderful piece of his work in the shop.
A piece like this truly showcases McQueen’s strong tailoring background& and master cutting abilities. The suit is made from a variety of cotton suiting fabrics and gives a nod to his heritage and strong tailoring roots. The jacket is also cut with sharply tailored lines and then he has added that spectacular button detailed collar and brought in the waist to create a more feminine shape. I love that it still feels very refined despite its avant garde patchwork details and cut. The shoulders are squared off and padded to hold their shape. Each sleeve is cut on a slight curve in the proper manner of tailoring a sleeve and ends in 4 functional buttons at each cuff. The body of the jacket is shaped with a female body in mind and is cut in at the waist for shape. Buttons run down the entire front. Six of them close at the center part of the jacket and then the rest above and below are decorative. It then flares out over the hips into a peplum around you. At the back it is cut to flare out into a sharp flounce as referenced above in the FIDM description. The skirt under that is equally as exceptional. It is cut with a flat front and is fitted around the hips. Curved inset allow it it flare out beautifully around you. You really need to watch the runway clip to see just how stunning it in on and moving. I think my favorite thing about it is how the the various cottons are pieces together and so deliberately sewn and apparent. The workmanship is meticulous and it is an absolutely beautiful and a rare piece of his work. Excellent condition
Both pieces are fully lined with an ivory cotton twill in the jacket and a silk through the skirt. The jacket buttons to closes at the front. The skirt closes with a hidden set side zipper. The jacket is tagged a size 42, the skirt a 40. Padding on the shoulders. Tiny and shallow hidden pockets on the jacket along the front waist seam. Deliberate raw edges on some parts of the set. I see the tiniest marks near the waist and on the front ribbed cotton. My cleaner thinks it is a part of the fabric and an inherent to the way it was woven. I have photoed both for you to see even though it is so minor. It otherwise looks to have never been worn or worn very little. The suit has an overall more creamy tone to it n person then how it photoed
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from neck to longest point of hem
Waist: to 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: The hem ranges from 29" from waist to middle front hem to 31" to the sides
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference Photos/Video: (1-5) Spring 2004 Alexander McQueen Runway Show, Look 55. / (6) A model walks the runway at the Los Angeles debut of designer Alexander McQueen's Spring / Summer 2004 Collection at Chateau Marmont on January 21, 2004 in West Hollywood, California. / (7) Spring 2004 Alexander McQueen Suit in the FIDM Museum Collection. / (8-10) Nicole Kidman, in Alexander McQueen, at AFI's 2003 Awards Luncheon, January 2004. / (11-12) Jennifer Connelly in Alexander McQueen, November 2003. / (13-14) Sienna Miller, in Alexander McQueen, at the Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championship, 2004. / (15) From the book "Alexander McQueen" Edited by Claire Wilcox.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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