vivienne westwood
Fall 2005 Vivienne Westwood 'Propaganda' Runway Stripe & Tulle Corset & Skirt Dress Set
The Fall 2005 ready to wear show was called 'Propaganda' and for the pieces sold from her personal collection in the recent Christie's auction they referred to some of the information from the Vivienne Westwood Catwalk book which I will share here; With "Propaganda‘ Vivienne Westwood, more than perhaps any other fashion designer, understands the power of a garment to communicate a meaning and a message…The message was writ large: PROPAGANDA, in block lettering worked into multitudes of garments. The inspiration was an essay by Aldous Huxley, ‘Propaganda in a Democratic Society’, asserting – Westwood stated – that the world suffers from three evils: ‘Nationalist Idolatry’ in place of religion; ‘Non-Stop Distraction’; and ‘Organised Lying’. Headbands also bore the word ‘Branded’, reference to Canadian author and social activist Naomi Klein’s book, No Logo. Again, Westwood was challenging orthodoxy through her designs.’ --Alexander Fury, Vivienne Westwood Catwalk"
The collection also featured a segment of pieces that were a mix of stripes, silks and tulles in a variety of colours. The near twin of this set walked the runway and I love that we have video so you can see how fantastic this is on the body. The dress on the runway seems to have had a half skirt made of the white tulle that tied into place over the skirt. I think if you wanted the full on look, you could easily have that re-created. It is gorgeous worn without as well and perhaps a touch more wearable this way too. This might even make for a beautiful set for a bride who doesn't want to go the traditional route.
I love the soft dusty ballet pink silk striping combined with the ivory and soft green cotton striped fabric. The corset has one of her trademark flattened front bodices that is boned and shaped so that it angles towards the centre waist inside. It closes at the back with a zipper and then the silk buttons over itself so that the zipper closure is completely hidden. The top angles down on one side and she has inset a panel of white tulle from shoulder to the long point of the hem. Combining both the pale green striped pattern with the pink silk stripes over the bodice creates this wonderful contrast. The skirt is equally as remarkable. Again we see her play with the pink striping and the green, mixing them together in that perfectly Westwood way to create interest and shape over the body. I love that the zipper is set on an angle at the back of the skirt to follow the pattern instead of creating a vertical line across all of those angles. The skirt is meant to fit more snug around the hips and then flares out tremendously into a pointed hem around you. Under that layer you see a multi-length finish of tulle. Five layers of tulle are wrapped around you and sit over top of a heavy cotton muslin inner skirt for support. It is all constructed to have this incredible fullness and movement. I also took a close-up of the pink striped fabric so you can see the beauty of the secondary floral pattern that runs through the pink striping. No matter how good it looks in the photos the mix of colour and extraordinary patterning that the pieces have is just phenomenal to see in person. Both pieces appear to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
The corset is lined in a combination of the green striped fabric and stretch lingerie netting. It closes with a zipper at the back and then buttons over the zipper as described above. The front of the corset is fully boned, and the sides have stretch lingerie net. The skirt is lined in a pale pink silk above the cotton muslin lower portion of the skirt. It closes with an angle set zipper that follows a seam and a button at the waist over that. Both pieces are tagged a UK10 US6
Corset
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: approx 15.5" from top of bodice to shorter side and 30" to the longer
Skirt
Waist: 12-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 45" from waist to longest points of the tulle of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4861
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2005 Vivienne Westwood.
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