Fall 1989 Ady Couture Lausanne Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Copy Green Metallic Suit
I am now on the second batch of very interesting pieces that are coming from a client whose aunt had most of her clothes made. This suit was made by Ady Couture and the story behind this label is fascinating. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and with permission make copies of the piece presented in the Haute Couture collections. When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses. My client believes that her arrangement with the ateliers was a way to work around customs that prompted Ady to negotiate this arrangement with the ateliers. In my hunt for more information I have been able to verify that they made this permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Lacroix and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the houses I am confident on. This particular suit seems to be done based on the Fall 1989 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture collection that focuses heavily on these amazing lame metallic brocades. This suit would have been made during the time period my clients aunt lived in Switzerland, from the late 70s to 1993. The suit is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is very well tailored and cut. The Haute Couture glass crystal buttons on this one alone are probably worth what I have priced it at.
In the book 'Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk' the collection notes for this season mention this fabric specifically saying: "The collection was notable for its lavish use of lame brocades created by the house of Abraham... Evening wear was covered in these lame brocades. Whether the form of suit or dresses, jacket or skirts. short of long, more then 25 designs were made from the fabric."
The suit is one of those pieces that just stops you in your tracks. It is insanely cut and tailored to a master level. Both pieces are made from a rich metallic green silk brocade and the colour in person is so much better then how it photoed. The camera really doesn't capture the depth of the colour or how much the metallic glints in the light. There is a pattern worked into the fabric and parts of it are raised with a different finish then the parts that are not raised. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that has some fullness through the upper body. The collar is set high and flat towards the back of the neck. Two pockets are set on the front at each hip and the shoulders are padded for volume and shape. Each sleeve is cut wider at the top near the shoulder and cut on a curve to follow the arm in the traditional way of tailoring a sleeve. As each sleeve narrow down to its hem it is caught up in a series of the most amazing buttons I have ever seen. These are incredible works of art on their own. Each are made from glass crystals and form a flower that combines a green centre with pink petals and then this is all edged in clear crystals. Five of these jewels sit on each sleeve on top of properly done silk covered button holes. Two more of them close the jacket at the front. The two are the front are slightly larger in size for more impact. The skirt is its own masterpiece. It is cut to wrap and button to close with a slight curve at the hem where is meets. The waist is banded and it closes down the front with more of those jewelled buttons. Five more of them follow the curved line down the front of the skirt. No need to wear jewelry with this suit. There are an inscribed 17 of those large jewel buttons in total on the suit. Once on the suit transforms. If you even remotely like it in the photos you will be overjoyed when you see it in person as it is far far better in real life and on. Yves' suits change the way we approach woman's wear and this particular one is a particularly wonderful example of how he combined strong tailoring with full on glamour. It is spectacular. Excellent condition
Both pieces are lined in a rich heavy green silk. The jacket closes with the two jewelled buttons at the front. The skirt also buttons to close. Two top set pockets on the breast of the jacket. Five jewelled buttons on each sleeve for a total of 17 crystal buttons. Incredible. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. It looks to have been worn very little if at all
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to back hem, 25" to the end of the little point at the front.
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20.5" from waist to shortest point at the front hem, 22.5" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Reference Photos: A/W 1989-90 Haute Couture. (Photos 2-3 from the book Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Catwalk.)
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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