Fall 1977 or Fall 1980 Ady Couture Lausanne Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Copy Gold Metallic Thread Jacket
This dress was made by hand in the atelier of Ady Couture who was based in Lausanne Switzerland. Ady herself was a couture trained seamstress and headed a team who had full permission of the Haute Couture houses she worked with to make the designs they showed in Paris for clients based in Switzerland and the surrounding areas. She would purchase the couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and then make the actual dresses in her atelier. This arrangement with the couture houses was a way to work around customs during this time period and do fittings for clients unable to travel to Paris. So far we have verified that she had this arrangement with Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but those are the four labels we have documentation on from the runway. This particular jacket seems to be done based on either the Fall 1977 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture collection or the Fall 1980 one. Both those collection featured several variations on this same gold metallic silk brocade fabric. The jacket would have been made during the time period my clients aunt lived in Switzerland, from the late 70s to 1993 and that fits in with the dates of the other pieces from this second round. The jacket is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is extremely well tailored and cut.
The jacket is incredible. It is insanely cut and tailored to a master level. It is made from a rich metallic silk brocade and it feels like it has actual metal in the fibres. It is a good weight and I think it is because of the metal in the fabric. It is incredible. The camera really doesn't capture the depth of the colour or how much the metallic glints in the light. There is a pattern worked into the fabric and parts of it are raised and puffed with a different finish then the parts that are not raised. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that has some fullness through the upper body. The collar curves around the neck and has a soft rounded shape around the notched front. Two angled pockets are set on the front at each hip and the shoulders are padded for volume and shape. Each sleeve is cut wider at the top near the shoulder and cut on a curve to follow the arm in the traditional way of tailoring a sleeve. As each sleeve narrows down to its end it is caught up in a series of big gold toned metal buttons. Each is made to look like a wrapped cord but done in gold. Four of these buttons sit on each sleeve on top of properly done button holes. Four more of them close the jacket at the front. The ones at the front are slightly larger in size for more impact. Once on the jacket transforms. If you even remotely like it in the photos you will be overjoyed when you see it in person as it is far far better in real life and on. Yves' suits change the way we approach woman's wear and this jacket is a particularly wonderful example of how he combined strong tailoring with full on glamour. It would be so easy to mix and match this with other pieces in your wardrobe. It is spectacular. Excellent condition with a small note below
Fully lined in a rich heavy gold toned silk. The jacket closes with four gold metal buttons at the front. Four more buttons on each sleeve for a total of 12 buttons. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. There is a spot on one side where the metal fabric has oxidized a bit and the edges show some minor grubbiness and wear. Please see the last two photos here
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Reference Photos: (1) 1977-78 Yves Saint Laurent China Collection. Photo by Lothar Schmid. From the book "Yves Saint Laurent: Images of Design." / (2) A/W 1980-81 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture from the book "Yves Saint Laurent: Haute Couture Catwalk."
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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