todd oldham

F/W 1994 Todd Oldham Densely Beaded Documented Runway Dress

The fall 1994 collection from Todd Oldham featured was a heady mix of supermodels and red carpet worthy gowns. As far as I am aware, this is one of examples of this particular dress from the show that were ever made. One was the one that Karen Mulder wore for the runway show and that was donated by Todd Oldham to The Met, and this example that was custom made for the Ebony Fashion Fair.  It represents a remarkable time in fashion history and I feel was one of the pinnacle gowns of the show.

The dress is cut into a long column made up of solid, densely applied bead work that is entirely hand done. The bead work has been applied onto a graduating colored silk going from a light baby blue to a deeper tone by the time it reaches the hem. It is cut to follow and highlight every curve. The simple, sleek lines allow that wonderful bead work to take center stage. Two types of beads have been used and this combination of the two create an exotic 'leopard' feeling print that covers the dress from shoulder to hem. I love the resulting combination of the pastel blue and silver. The neckline and back are scooped and the waist nips in just a touch but without being seamed. It is super model length with a slightly trained hem at the back. The full coverage of the glass beads makes this feel very heavy off the body but once on, it falls and the weight is evenly balanced out. Inside, it is completely finished in a silver toned white silk satin silk that slides over the skin and gives it a sensual feel. When you move, all of that wonderful bead work captures the light and the dress seems to glow from within. Presents as excellent condition with some small condition notes to review below.

Fully lined in a cream silk satin and closes with a hand set back zipper. It appears to be made entirely done by hand. The gown is very heavy and there is a slight amount of beads loose or missing along the straps and there are beads and loose threads along the train. This was worn on the runway for the Ebony Fashion Fairs and this is all from being worn in shows. Inside the upper bust and along the hem the interior satin has scuffs and discolorations - nothing that shows when on but mentioned for accuracy.

Bust: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 67" from shoulder to back train

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED


Reference Photos: (1-3) Karen Mulder walks the Todd Oldham Fashion Show on April 7, 1994 at Bryant Park in New York City.  /  (4) Model in Todd Oldham Fall 1994.  /  (5) Todd Oldham Dress from The Metropolitan Museum of Art  'The Collection Online'.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.