Exceptional Fall 1986 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Runway Metallic Gold Thread on Black Silk Net Dress
Karl's first collection for Chanel was in 1983 which makes this piece from one of his early collections. I was happy to be able to find a reference photo of the twin of the dress from the runway that season. Three pieces were shown in this gold metallic fabric and this was the third that walked the runway. In the photo of the models it is the one on the far right towards the back. We also found runway footage so you can see how it moves. The hand written tag on the dress is also dated to 1986 and there is also a special order tag from Bergdorf's with the exact date of September 1, 1986 along with the client's name who ordered it. I feel like that makes it that much more special. It is a wonderful example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period.
The dress is made from a of a metallic gold thread embroidered onto a black silk net and then backed by a black silk chiffon. The gold thread absolutely glows off of the black silks and it is wonderful to see in person. It also gives it a gorgeous texture with the thread slightly raised off the netting. Really exceptional fabric. The cut of the dress is gorgeous and its simple lines are done to allow the gold to take center stage. The neckline is cut straight across and is set wide so you get a glimpse of skin across the top of the shoulder. The edges of it follow the lace pattern for a pretty scalloped effect. Inside the bodice is a tank that adds extra coverage across the chest but leaves the upper shoulders and arms covered in just a single layer of the chiffon and gold for a touch of transparency. The sleeves have this same touch of transparency to them. The bodice skims over the bust and waist. The lace is finished just below the waist with that same scalloped edge and then the skirt falls from under that. It gives the illusion that you are wearing a top and skirt but without an added bulk that you would have if it was two pieces. The front of the skirt curves up to a slightly shorter length and then it curves down at the back skirt to a true full length skirt by the time it reaches the longest point of the back hem. It is gorgeous. Excellent condition
Full lined in a fine black silk chiffon with an inner chiffon bodice suspended by tiny straps and in inner silk skirt. Hand finishes. The inner bodice has its own zipper to close it and then the outer layer closes with a series of buttons and loops down the back. Buttons and loop at each cuff. Cut slightly on the bias so may come up a touch in length when on depending on your frame
Sleeves: approx 23"
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Inner bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: to 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 49" from top of shoulder to front hem, 60" to back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference Photo/Video: Fall 1986 Chanel Runway Collection.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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