valentino

Documented Fall 1986 Valentino Haute Couture Very Full Skirted One Shoulder Dress

The dress comes directly from the original couture client and is in immaculate condition. It was ordered and made on the same time 1985 period as the crystal bow dress I am listing today. This is an exceptional example of Valentino's Haute Couture work that he was doing during the 1980s. Finding pieces from this time period in such immaculate condition is a rarity and I am very pleased to have this beautiful dress in the shop. I am also pleased to have found a reference photo to fully document and date it on Christy Turlington from the November issue of Vogue 1986

This dress is divine. The lines of it are beautiful and as good as it looks on the dress form it is perfection on an actual body. Couture pieces are very difficult to truly show in a photo as they are meant to highlight and show off the body and only truly come to life when worn. The bodice of this dress is made from an inky black silk velvet. It is fitted and nipped in at the waist. One shoulder is left bare and the other is encased in a sheath of velvet. The sleeve is cut to the wrist and the shoulder is set to be high and capped with a pretty gathered seam set on an angle on both the front and the back. The shoulder pad underneath is hand formed so that it is rounded to flow and exaggerate the curve of the shoulder. The skirt is wonderful. It is set into the waist in a series of soft pleats that help to give it the fullness that you see. It is very full and cut with a nod to the skirts of the fifties. It is made from a gunmetal silk taffeta that has wide panels of velvet flocking fused to its surface. These wrap around the skirt in three bands starting just under the waist and ending just above the hem. The inner construction of the skirt is amazing. The outermost layer is backed in a silk organza and all of the seams are hand finished along their edges. Set inside the skirt is that startling emerald green silk taffeta underskirt that is built into the dress. It falls below the hips and then has a second ruffled piece nearer the hem for fullness. This is placed into the interior by hand and backed in silk. There is a wide strip of stiffened net running though the two inner hems. It is cut very full to give the skirt its shape and volume. Plus the unexpected flash of green when you move a certain way or sit is fantastic. It feels very tactile on to have all these skirt swirling around you as you move. It really is wonderful and an amazing example of his earlier Haute Couture work. Excellent condition. 

The bodice, skirt and underskirts are all lined and backed in silk. The sleeve is self backed. Done with Haute Couture construction techniques and it closes with a hidden set metal zipper at the side and then has silk covered snaps and a secondary zipper on the side of the skirt. I have photoed this for you. Inner waist stay hooks to close. Hand made padding on the shoulder and light boning at the side of the bodice around the zipper. A fine metal zipper to close the end of the sleeve. Built in underskirt with stiffened inset at the edges as described above. 

Sleeve: 22.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 31.5" from waist to hem with 4.5" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3553

Reference Photo: Christy Turlington in Valentino, Vogue, November 1986.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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