hanae mori

1996 Hanae Mori Haute Couture Hand Beaded Silk Chiffon & Printed Silk Dress

In 1996, the same year this gown was made, Hanae Mori was awarded the Order of Culture by the Emperor of Japan. This after a long and lustrous career that included becoming the first Japenese women to become a member of Le Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne in 1977. In the Encyclopedia of Fashion they say of her work:

"....examples used bright hot colors, juxtaposed in one ensemble to provide interest, bringing a strong Japanese feel to their narrow hues, frequently harking back to the kimono for their silhouette and cut. It is in this area that her work is most inspired, bringing together European tailoring and Japanese color and ideals of beauty. She uses the Japanese love of asymmetry to further develop her style and the linear patterns she prints onto her distinctive silks. She exploits the natural appeal of such fabrics with a well-defined sense of cut to illuminate her realistic styles. By doing so, Mori is providing both an alternative to and a definite rejection of the type of elaborate couture confections that mold the female form into fantastical shapes, ignoring the woman beneath the fabric.......The designer is also a favorite of the Japanese royal family and Thailand's Queen Sirikit."

To find a true piece of her Haute Couture is exceedingly rare and when the design is as beautiful as this one is, it just makes it that much more special. This is couture on the highest level with everything about the piece deliberate and constructed to work as a whole. It is made of the finest silk and silk chiffon. The design is one of her signature custom prints that she helped to develop. Along the hem of the skirt there is also a hand painted detailing layered on top of the print. Bead work has been hand applied to the silk chiffon bodice to follow the black and white pattern on the underlying silk. The skirt wraps and secures over, draping around the hips and legs in a beautiful swath of silk. At one side of the waist she works in a touch of the East with the bow that you see. Underneath is a short mini skirt that is built in and has just the slightest touch of padding at the back. This gives shape around the hip and I feel it is also a subtle nod to the bustle pad. The top is semi-transparent and zips to close from the waist. It can be left open more to give a deeper plunge. I photos most of the shots with the zipper left a little open and included one with it fully closed. The shocking flash of brilliant turquoise under the skirt and lining the bow along with the high slit created by the wrapped effect are the perfect finishes. Great condition with a note to review below

The skirt is lined in a brilliant turquoise silk and the interior partial skirt is lined in black silk. The bodice and sleeves are unlined. The bodice closes with a front zipper. Her signature tiny fabric covered snaps sit at each cuff. There minor loss and loose beads on the top. Please see the photo after the label shots for the worst area. Completely made by hand as per the the standards of Haute Couture. Numbered tag underneath labeled "HC 1363 (perhaps the first number is a 7?) Pe 6-12-96"

Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 53" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2363

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.