Ady Couture

Fall 1991 Ady Couture Lausanne Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Copy Wool Patchwork Suit w Silk Top

This dress was made by hand in the atelier of Ady Couture who was based in Lausanne Switzerland. Ady herself was a couture trained seamstress and headed a team who had full permission of the Haute Couture houses she worked with to make the designs they showed in Paris for clients based in Switzerland and the surrounding areas. She would purchase the couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and then make the actual dresses in her atelier. This arrangement with the couture houses was a way to work around customs during this time period and do fittings for clients unable to travel to Paris. So far we have verified that she had this arrangement with Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but those are the four labels we have documentation on from the runway. This particular suit is a little extra interesting because its belt is actually stamped with the YSL name. This solidifies the connection with the YSL atelier and shows that the accessories were bought along with the fabrics. This suit would have been made during the time period my clients aunt lived in Switzerland, from the late 70s to 1993. The suit and its matching silk top is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is very well tailored and cut.

The suit is a marvel of construction and is in wonderful condition. I love that it even comes with its original silk top. It is so rare that you get all three pieces to a suit and it gives you incredible versatility with it since you can mix and match all of the pieces with things you already own. The suit's simple appearance belies the masterful cut and tailoring that lies behind it. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut that has some fullness around the upper body and a wonderfully wide notched collar. Angled pockets are top set on the front of each hip and the shoulders are padded for shape. The nubby wool fabric has enough weight that it holds the lines perfectly once it is on. The belt that comes with it is intended for the skirt but you could easily wear it on top of the jacket if you wanted to cinch in the waist and add more shape. I love the big glossy crocodile patterned buttons. These sit at the low from top the jacket and then three run up each sleeve. The skirt is cut in a simple pencil shape. The waist is banded and has attached loops that match the suede of the belt. On each hip of the skirt are angled pockets. The original matching silk top has a high neckline and padded shoulders for shape. One shoulder is gathered across the top and buttons in place with hand carved wood buttons. The sleeves are fuller at the top and taper down as they reach the wrist. The body of the top is cut loose and easy. I love the puffed effect that the silk has. It is an incredible mix of textures against the patchwork print that is worked thought the wool of the jacket and skirt. Once on, the suit transforms and I think you will be shocked at how much better it is in person and on then how it looks on my dress form. Yves' suits change the way we approach woman's wear and this particular one is a particularly wonderful example of his strong tailoring and cutting skills. Excellent condition

Both the skirt and jacket  are lined in a rich heavy blue-purple silk. The top is unlined. The jacket has two buttons at the front and three on each cuff. All the buttons holes are properly tailored to couture standards. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist and the top slips on and buttons along the one shoulder. Two pockets on the jacket and pockets on the skirt. Shoulder padding in both the jacket and top. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into the construction of all three pieces. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. 

Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem

Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from neck to hem 

Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22.5" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD3810

Reference Photos: (1) A/W 1991 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Collection.  /  (2) Catherine Deneuve Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture A/W 1991 Suit from the Sale at Christies.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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