1973 Chanel Numbered Haute Couture Red Silk Chiffon Dress

True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. This piece is a little extra special in its provenance as my client tells me that this was the very first piece of Haute Couture that her mother purchased in 1973 from the runway sample from the Spring collection for that year.

The dress is made of two layers - a silk twill inner sheath dress and a looser, more flounced outer layer made of silk chiffon. The silk chiffon used on the outer layer is of the highest possible grade and both pieces have a beautiful red and white floral design screened over  them. When the two pieces are  layered over each other the most interesting depth effect is created as a result. The fabric choices give the dress a very light and airy feel that is very feminine. The sleeves pouf up slightly above the off-white silk organza cuffs. The neckline has a notched collar that is made of that same organza. It dips down at the front and has a classic Chanel Camellia flower that sits at the base of the neckline. Both the cuffs and collar are attached by a series of snaps and could be removed if you wished to wear the dress without that white accent. At some point the base of the collar was tacked into place to secure it but you could easily remove the few stitches and have the option of wearing the dress without the collar and cuffs in place. The skirt is a masterpiece of fine pleat work set by hand all the way around the hips. Each is done by hand and spaced apart perfectly. These give the skirt its slight volume and the technique is beautiful. Entirely made by hand and the Haute Couture tag and numbered tape behind it are present on the interior dress. The outer dress is in excellent condition and the inner dress has notes below to review regarding condition.

The exterior dress is unlined and closes with a combination of hidden set, silk covered snaps and hook & eye set down the front of the dress. The interior dress act as the lining and closes with a handset side painted metal zip. The cuffs and collar snap into place. I see no flaws on the outer dress. The inner dress shows color run under each arm  - I have photoed both for your review. When both pieces are worn together you do not see it at all and it presents as excellent. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. Haute Couture label present with interior tape number 47638.

Outer Dress
Sleeves: 25"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem

Inner Dress
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 53" from neck to front hem, 55" at the bacl

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD2116

Reference Photo: Spring 1973 Chanel Haute Couture.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.