oscar de la renta

Wonderful 1968 Oscar de la Renta Gold Metallic Thread Silk Brocade Dress w Extensive Beadwork

I have had the twin of this dress in the shop many many years ago. That dress did not have its Oscar label in it but it did have a handwritten tag inside that dated it to 1968. I've also included a reference photo that is Oscar dress that was a part of an exhibit and that one was from the Fall 1967 collection. You can see the similarities in design and how he was really focused on this look and feel for 1967 through to 1968. He used this kind of fabric freely throughout those collections in particular. The label in the dress identifies it as being a part of his earliest main line. When Oscar De la Renta first started his career he began a partnership with the fashion house of Jane Derby in 1965. Jane Derby died shortly after and in 1966 the first labels that bore only the Oscar de la Renta name appeared. That makes this a very early example of his higher end work. It is gorgeous.

This dress is an absolute knock out. The fabric is quite exceptional and the silk metallic brocade forms a stunning design that runs over the entire dress. It is lighter in weight then you would think at first glance. It is heavy enough to hold and retain the shape that he wanted it to have but is still light enough so that it feels easy and comfortable to wear. It perfectly sums up Oscar's love of opulence mixed with the exuberance of the decade. The cut is kept simple to allow that stunning fabric to take centre stage. The skirt falls from the slightly high set waist. It skims over the hips and then widens out to be quite full by the time it reaches the hem. The waist is seamed but left more on the open and easy feeling side rather than being severely cinched in. The sleeves are cut straight and each one ends in an elaborately finish cuff that combines deep gold metallic thread, rhinestones, bead work and faux pearls. The same elaborate finish runs all the way around the waist and then edges the neckline that falls in a V at the front. Another panel of bead sits beside that one and they both  follows the curve of the neckline and then curve up and around the back for added detail there. The neckline has a bit of a modesty panel behind the hook closure and you could fold and tack this back or remove it altogether if you wanted a more bare look peeking out between the hooks that sit all the way to the waist. The fabric is a stunning silk brocade that is a gorgeous mix of pink, corals and a soft yellow. Woven through that is a muted gold thread that adds a soft metallic shimmer over the entire dress. The effect is amazing. Inside it is lined in a vibrant green silk and the shock of colour when you realize it is there is spectacular. And it has pockets. Excellent overall condition with a note below

Fully lined in a beautiful vivid green silk. It closes at the front with a series of snaps and hook & eye. Hand finishes inside and hidden pockets on the skirt. Some of the gold thread cording that sits behind the beads has started to fray and you can see evidence of this here and there wherever the beading is. There may be the occasion bead missing. Please see the photo after the label shot for an example of this. The silk has begun to split on the lining under each arm with some repair work done. 

Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem with 2" turned under the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4736

Reference Photo: Oscar de la Renta, Evening Dress, fall 1967, synthetic matelassé with rhinestone, bead, and sequin embroidery from the The Glamour and Romance of Oscar de la Renta Exhibit at The Museum of Fine Arts Houston in 2018.

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