1950s Numbered Jean Desses Dress Set
An extremely rare Jean Desses, numbered and labeled emsemble. This is an "ÈxÈcutÈ par Maria Carine sur autorization spÈciale" (made by Maria Carine with special authorization).
This is a special garment and needs a bit more explanation - it is best explained by this excerpt from the Vintage Fashion Guild: Maria Carine was owned by Maria Moutet-Chenu. She worked with four couturiers: Heim, Desses, LaRoche, and Lanvin. After the couture showings, each couturier would give her sketches based upon the garments they had just shown. Moutet-Chenu made the toiles which were approved by the designers. Then each ready-to-wear garment was cut individually by hand in the Maria Carine workrooms in Paris using the same fabrics that were used for the couture garment. Maria employed hundreds of seamstresses, many of whom worked in their own homes. They sewed each garment individually to exacting standards. This was the highest of early high-end ready-to-wear.
In other words - this is a hand sewn, authorized piece, that would have been completely overseen by the house of† Desses and is how "ready to wear" pieces were produced for† clients. These were only produced for a small window of time before more mass market production methods took over. The quality is that of couture and this is perhaps the rarest of labels to find of this ilk. I love the classic cut of this set with it's box coat and chic and flattering sheath dress. The fabric is unbelievable - it is a very lightweight fine gold lame silk† brocade woven with bits of yarn worked in. It is extremely supple and is the perfect balance of being able to move and have structure. The dress is a† simple shift that is cut to skim over your curves. I love the inset V panel at the front and the seamed bust. It has the original tie belt that ends in velvet so that you can cinch in the waist or wear over the jacket. The jacket has a pretty velvet collar and tie at the neckline. It is simplicity mixed with a masterful seaming and cutting and extraordinary fabric. This is really the equivalent of a made to order, one step under couture, garment. Hand finishes and extra detail throughout. Excellent condition and a chic, rare set!
Shoulders: 16î from seam to seam
Bust: 22î flat across the inside from side seam to side seam
Waist: 21î flat across the inside from side seam to side seam
Length: 21î from mid-neck to bottom hem
Sleeves: 19î from shoulder seam to longest point
Bust: 20î flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Waist: 17î flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20î flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Total length: 40î from top of shoulder to bottom hem
The jacket is lined in a taupe silky rayon and dress is lined in a cream tissue silk. The jacket closes with the gold metal buttons as pictured. The tie at the neck is attached. The dress closes with a hand set back painted metal† zipper. All hand finished. Note the gold is more muted then shown - truer tot he close up photo of the label. The tie belt is original and in excellent condition. Both pieces are labeled and the dress has an addition hand written label.
Modern Sizing equivalent: SML-MED (8-12)
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival
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