1950s Jeanne Lanvin by Castillo Haute Couture Metallic Brocade Dress

This is an extremely rare Jeanne Lanvin Haute Couture dress designed by Antonio Castillo. Castillo started off his career at the houses of Paquin and Piquet. He also did a stint designing accessories for Chanel. In 1950 he became the head designer at the House of Lanvin. The press at the time lauded him, along with Balmain, Dior, Balenciaga, as the new generation of the Paris Couture designers. During his time at Lanvin the house was known for the simple and elegant lines of the clothes and his metallic embroideries were particularly sought after. This is a rare Haute Couture dress from that period and is very beautiful and representative of exactly those attributes. 

The fabric of this dress is the undeniable focal point of the dress and it is just wonderful. It is a very fine silk brocade woven with a very slightly raised pattern of flowers. Into the cloth are metallic threads of silver and gold and the give the dress an overall sheen that catches the light quite beautifully but is very subtle. In person this fabric almost seems to glow from within and it is very beautiful. The color is not quite captured in these photos and I think it is far better in person. The dress is cut to skim over the bust with a softer feel to it. The waist is shaped by a complicated crossing of flat ties that hook and snap into place. I tied it in the front but think it could be done to all sit flat as well. The skirt falls and flares out softly to just past the knee. It gently widens as it nears the hem and when you see it in person you will feel that there is more fabric in the skirt then how it photoed. The neckline is finished in a simple scoop that feels perfectly in tandem with its stark and simple line. It is made with masterful seaming and cut and the fabric is just extraordinary. Excellent condition.

Fully hand lined in silk and fully hand stitched on the interior to Haute Couture standards. The dress closes with a side set painted metal zipper. The straps circle the waist and there is a combination of hook & eye and hidden snaps to secure them. Real metal thread has been used to create the fabric. Note that the way the ties wrap the waist is brought in to about 12" flat across - you could move where the ties are attached to get the full waist if needed.

Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam but see above notes
Hips: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 45" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3217

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.