sybil connolly

Elegant Late 1950s Sybil Connolly Couture Pale Lavender Pleated Linen Strapless Dress w Shawl

  • Irish designer Sybil Connolly had her first major US fashion show in 1953. The American press dubbed her the 'Dublin's Dior'. Jacqueline Kennedy wore Connolly for her official White House portrait and Connolly was a particular favorite of Carmen Snow, the editor of Harper's Bazaar.
  • It was made under the creative direction of Sybil Connolly
  • The dress would've been made entirely by hand in her atelier in Ireland.
  • In 1957 she launched her couture label. She created Haute Couture pieces made from Irish textiles and in particular she became famous for her distinctive use of  pleated handkerchief linen.
  • This excerpt from the FDIM Museum explains Sybil Connolly's techniques: "Sybil Connolly's trademark gowns required a tremendous amount of fabric. To construct one pleated evening dress required between 72 and 90 yards of Irish handkerchief linen. After undergoing a secret pleating process, this initial yardage became 7 to 10 yards of slightly irregular, narrow linen pleats. Like the early 20th century designer Mario Fortuny, Sybil Connolly was very protective of her pleating process, swearing that it was a secret she would "carry to the grave." In her designs, Connolly usually oriented the pleats horizontally, covering the seams with self-fabric cording. The cords also lengthen the overall line of the garment, providing a counterbalance to the horizontal pleats. As Connolly tended towards solid colors, the stiff cording also provides a necessary visual contrast to the soft linen pleats."
  • She worked directly with the cloth on a model and rarely sketched beforehand.
  •  I found a quote that referred to the Irish linen she used to be 'of a quality so fine it was almost chiffon-like in weight' and that description is very accurate.
  • The dress has a fairly simple line so that the pleating technique takes centre stage. The bodice is strapless and fitted and the pleated linen runs horizontally across the dress.
  • The waist cinches in under that for shape and has a wide attached band done in a matching pale purple silk for added detailing.
  • The skirt billows out from there and is very full. To help create the volume that you see the skirt has been set in and around the waist in soft cleats that open up into the fullness that you see as it falls to the floor. An incredible amount of fabric would have been used to create the skirt. 
  • The dress comes with its original matching shawl. This is cut into a simple triangle with loops set just inside the outer edges to slip your arms through and hold it in place.
  • This is a wonderful and very rare example of her work. Most pieces are held in museums.
  • The gown is fully lined in an ivory silk and boned through the bodice. It closes with a back zipper on the inner corset and then a second zipper closes over that on the outer layer of the dress. There are areas throughout where the fabric has  softly faded. There are also areas where the it has slightly discoloured. Please see the photos after the label shot.
  • There is no size tag present because it is Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
  • Great condition.

Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 8.5" from top of bodice to the bottom of the 2" band at the waist
Total length: 53" from top of bodice to hem with 2" turned under
Shawl: 41" across the widest point and 25" from the point to the top of the shawl.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS

Item# DD5319

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