yves saint laurent
Divine Fall 1979 Yves Saint Laurent True Haute Couture Blue Silk Harlequin Print Dress w Ruffled Cuffs
- This dress is from the Fall 1979 Haute Couture Yves Saint Laurent collection.
- It was made under the creative direction Yves Saint Laurent.
- The 1979 collection was an a homage to Picasso and Diaghilev. Yves had been to an exhibit on Picasso costume and set designs for Diaghilev's ballet Russes. At the time he told French Vogue that he had been on a different path entirely for the collection but then he saw the exhibition and "my collection took on the structure of a ballet. I embroidered on Picasso, on a slightly soft cubism, on harlequin, the Blue Period, the Pink. It's best when in inspiration comes! You no longer have any doubt, you get on with it, you feel an immense joy!"
- You can see that inspiration of the harlequin especially on the pattern of this dress. We found several runway examples where he used the same pattern and added those here. It was a significant part of the collection.
- In the YSL folio that contains all the drawings from the collection, I saw that he had to use this particular print in several colours; a golden brown, a red, a white and black, and this magnificent blue. I have also included a sketch of the dress that is closest to this particular piece. Based on the drawings in my folio, it seems that this is most likely a one off done in collaboration with the client's request.
- The dress would have been made completely by hand in the Paris atelier.
- It is made out of a beautiful fine silk that has a secondary pattern within the weave in the same blue and then it is printed with that black design leaving the blue to show between. The silk is of the highest possible grade.
- You can see the very beginnings of the classic Yves Saint Laurent sack dress to come in the cut and silhouette in this dress. These sack dresses played on volume and cut. As the years went by they got bigger and looser through the middle. This one is still on the edge of being a more loose-waist A-line.
- The collar is banded in the same silk and the silk is gathered in around it for a little added detail. The shoulders are soft and the upper portion of the sleeve is wider and set in a slight cap on the top of the shoulder. This narrows down to a cuffed wrist that ends in a ruffle made of the same silk.
- The cut through the body is loose and easy and it is almost tubular in feel with just the slightest bit of narrowing as it nears the hem.
- I love how this makes it easy to wear and that it gives you the option of wearing it loose or adding a belt to cinch it in and add shape around the waist.
- I have shot it both of those ways with an added black rope belt. The belt is not original to the dress but will be included.
- The perfect finishing touch is the little slits on either side of the skirt. These allow for movement when you move and gives you ease of walking plus a little bit of extra leg to show.
- This is a superb piece of Couture and is an early example of his work.
- The dress is unlined and slips over the head to wear with a single button at the back of the neck above a keyhole. Each cuff buttons to close. It is entirely made by hand. The appropriate Haute Couture label is present.
- There is no size tag present because it is true Couture. Please go by the measurements listed below.
- Excellent condition
Sleeves: 23.5" they are 15" around the upper arm. The neck is 13" around. The cuffs are 6" around where the button is presently but could be opened and the button moved to get 7".
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: 36.5" from neck to hem. Each side slit is 9" from the hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5644
Reference Photos: Fall 1979 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture.
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SIZE GUIDE
Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.


























