This is the final Haute Couture Chanel piece for now from the collection that I have been handling for a client and this last dress is gorgeous. It is another amazing example of Karl Lagerfeld's Haute Couture work for the house. The photos on the dress form are not doing it justice at all and we were very pleased to find the runway references for it so that you can see how it sits on the body. Like most Couture pieces it needs an actual body in it to truly come to life. You can see in the runway shots how beautifully the dress is on and the video gives you a better idea of how it moves. It feel infinitely Chanel in every way. Sarah Mower said on her review of this collection that ‘With his sharp knack for synthesizing the mood of the moment into the spirit of Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld came up with a couture statement that might neatly be labeled "mod medieval."… (it) showcased Lagerfeld's deft handling of new proportions. It started with a narrow, molded shoulder line falling to dresses with a slight flare in the hem’ a description which almost perfectly describes this exact dress. Karl himself said that "This Collection is a play with proportions. It's the movement that counts, a silhouette for the city in for modern life. A strong attitude, kind of visual aggressivity."

This is magnificent dress. It is one long sheath dress that falls to the floor in a smooth column. That minimalist black column of silk is offset by the shoulder area that is done in an ivory white silk. This was then completely covered by hand in a dense application of elongated white paillettes that are set onto the silk at only one of their ends. This allows them to move slightly as you move. There is a small neat collar that is also detailed with the paillettes. The shoulders are shaped so that they curve perfectly over the shoulder. It feels very restrained and refined. This cut through the dirt was presented throughout the entire collection and was one of the key components. The ivory silk runs across the top of your shoulders and then is separated from the rest of the dress by a silk satin band. A row of tightly spaced buttons start where the black silk begins and run down past the waist. The dress falls from the shoulders in a smooth line that skims over the bust, waist and hips, even billowing outwards a bit before narrowing down to the hem. The bottom of the skirt is unusual and has that Karl twist to it. The hem is finished with wide strip of the same black silk satin to pick up on the band used across the shoulders. Then at the back there is a second a row of tightly spaced silk covered buttons that run down to the hem. Under that is a panel of silk attached inside the dress that extends down and past the hem. This panel is cut on a curve. If you leave the buttons at the back buttoned it creates an almost hobble skirt effect with that panel peeking out from under and if you leave the buttons open at the back then that panel has tremendous movement as you walk. You can get a better idea of this on the video. On the runway it was styled with a large detachable bow and jeweled brooch and sleeveless gloves. This would be easy to re-create style wise if you love the full runway look. The dress has been entirely made by hand and is labelled with its proper Chanel Haute Couture label. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition

The dress is hand lined in a black silk and closes with the buttons at the front. It is hand finished to couture standards. Its proper couture label is present. Sourced from the original couture client. It is meant be loose and easy through the body

Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 55.5" from top of shoulder to hem and the back panel adds another 6"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4262

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2006 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 51.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an incredible example of Karl Lagerfeld's Haute Couture work. I am so glad this was a runway piece because it was almost impossible to photo correctly on the dress form. The elaborate sleeves that you see coming out from under the jacket are actually separate pieces altogether. You can see on the runway shots how beautifully they sit on an actual arm. My client opted for a more sleek jacket that did not take her in it at the waist as much as the runway look did and a more classic trouser. If you preferred that cinched in waist look you could easily belt the jacket. The simpler silhouette of this jacket allows for more versatility and styling. Sarah Mower said on her review of the show that; ‘It was pure Chanel, crystallized to a point of perfection only witnessed in haute couture…. Karl Lagerfeld began this mostly black-and-white collection with a new treatment of the Chanel suit…. These were paired with flat white go-go boots, which were not referenced from the sixties, but from a pair Coco (always ahead of her time) was wearing in a photograph from the decade before. That allusion and others demonstrate just how deftly Lagerfeld—Chanel historian par excellence—marshals his knowledge. He sprinkles the camellias, the satin bows, the organdy collars, and the bound edges so lightly that they become playful thrills—not belabored underscorings of theme or "brand identity."…. Lagerfeld reinvents the house signatures to pique the fantasies of today's young woman—and that he does just beautifully.’ 

The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. This is sharply contrasted with the dandified collar and arm pieces. It is incredible to have the full suit. This set includes the jacket, pants, inner top, collar and both arm pieces. The suit is made from a fine black wool that is light in weight and has a slight texture. It is just heavy enough to hold the shape beautifully. The jacket is cut to have a slight oversize feel through the body. The shoulders are shaped and the sleeves fall to just past the elbow. There is no collar. The neckline comes down the front in a simple V and then it zips to close down the remainder of the front. Two sleek little pockets are stacked on top of each other on either side of the waist for some detailing. It is cut to be more straight through the body and then flares out slightly at the hem, falling to just past the hip. The pants are classic and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted and cut to taper down to the ankles. A sharp fold runs down the front and the back of each leg. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is entirely made by hand. Every stitch is perfection. Under that goes a little sleeveless ivory silk top with a small neat collar. The top is easy fitting through the body. The top three buttons are finished with rhinestones and enamel and then the rest of the buttons are hidden under a flap of silk. Three additional pieces come with the suit. The first is a detachable silk organdy collar that goes around the neck and adds a romantic flounce with a large soft bow and ties. This gives the suit an unexpected touch of drama. Next is a pair of detachable sleeves. The sleeves are also made out of the same silk organdy as the collar and slip on the lower arm. Both those and the collar have a nod to the regency era when this type of sleeve and collar were all the rage. The sleeves are finished with a row of those beautiful buttons and the ends are ruffled. Every piece has been entirely made by hand and all the proper Chanel couture labels and numbered tapes are present. I love that with this one set you have so many pieces to mix and match with other things you own. It allows you to be able to sprinkle a bit of vintage Haute Couture throughout your wardrobe. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition with a minor note below. 

The jacket and pants are hand lined in a fine black silk. The jacket closes with a hidden zipper under the front panel of fabric. The pockets appear to be functional and all four still have their original tacking in place. The pants zip to close with a hidden set side zipper. The toppings to close at the front. The collar snaps into place and the sleeves slip onto the arm with functional buttons running down the cuffs. The edges of the collar and cuffs have intentional raw edges. I see one small area of breakage in the silk on the edge of one cuff. Please see the photo after all of the label shots. I see one rhinestone missing off one button on each cuff and one on the top. All of the pieces are made and finished by hand to couture standards. Proper couture labels present with couture tape are present on all pieces but the sleeves. Sourced from the original couture client 

Jacket
Sleeves: 18"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 34.5" from neck to head 

Pant
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from waist to hem with 1.5" turned under
Inseam: 28.5" from inner seam to hem
Rise: 15.5" from back waist to inner seam

Top
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to head 

Collar
14" around and the snaps could be adjusted up or down a bit if needed

Cuffs
Length: 13" including the extended cuff, 9" without
10" around the upper edge and narrows to 7" around the wrist

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4263

Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2006 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 9. Model: Svetlana.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The fabric used for the lower portion of this dress matches the Fall 2000 couture ruffled Chanel coat that I have in the shop and both pieces are from the same client. That said, I do not believe that they were purchased as a formal set because the numbered tags on each do not fall in sequential order like they normally would if that was the case. However, if you look at the runway photo for that look, you can see the similarities to the piece that was shown underneath the ruffle coat on the runway. There is a similarity in the top portion of the dress to Look 34 and we believe that this was a custom made piece whose fabric was chosen to give the option of wearing with the coat. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is a beautiful example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period and how a couture client could work with Karl to get the look that best suited her and her lifestyle.

This is a beautiful and chic shifts that can easily be styled to work for day or as an evening peace. The skirt is made from a rich black silk and it is immaculately tailored. The cut is very simple. It falls from an easy cut waist and then skims over the hips and narrows in slightly to the hem. Panels of silk are set vertically to create the shape of the skirt and the tailoring is immaculate. I love the slash pockets that are set low on the hip. Attach to the skirt is a sleeveless top that is made from precisely spaced knife pleats all the way around. The fabric has a slightly open woven look and feels like it is a mix of linen and silk. This gives it a slight touch of transparency over the inner lining. The effect is lightness and a touch of volume but without it being too transparent to wear. A softer panel of the silk runs from the top of the waist band and appears to circle back and behind the neck and then comes down and loops in under the bottom of the band at the waist. I just is a little unexpected detail. That soft collar also hides a rather low plunge for a bit of sexiness. The back of the neck is gathered and closes with three hand made fabric covered buttons. The top buttons to close below that but the buttons are all hidden under a pleat so that the line does not appear broken in any way. Is a stunning piece. Excellent condition

The top is hand lined in the same fabric as the exterior and the skirt is hand lined in a black silk. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. It is completely made by hand.

Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.2" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 14" from neck to top band at the waist
Skirt: 25" from top band at the waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4202

Reference Photos: Fall Chanel 2000 Couture Runway, Looks 20 & 34.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is the twin of the piece that walked the runway for the Fall 2000. I have, and have had, several Couture pieces from this collection now from the same client and she often ordered her pieces in a different colours from the runway but for this one she did stay true to the runway vision. The jacket is incredibly beautiful and so perfectly and sharply tailored. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.

This car length evening jacket / coat is absolutely stunning. I am just in love with it. The length makes it so versatile and you can mix and match with almost anything in your wardrobe from jeans to evening pieces. It is made from a combination of a very high end black silk with that fabulous silk tulle ruffle at the front. The tailoring on this piece is immaculate. It slips on and has a hook at the top of the neck. There are shoulder pads for structure. The sleeves are long and I love how the shoulders are set into the body of the jacket so that they peak just slightly above the shoulder line. This is a very Karl signature that only got stronger as time went on. It has meticulous seaming set in curving lines to create the shape that you see. I took some closer shots of the seaming around the sides and arms of the jacket so that you can see how incredible it is. There is a hook and eye at the neck to close. I love the ruffle set at the front. It cascades down the front from the neck right to the hem. It is made of multiple layers of silk tulle so that it has volume. It is very full at the ruff of the neck and then gradually narrows down as it reaches towards the bottom hem. This adds unexpected detail and romance to the jacket. It is hand lined in a black silk and it is heaven to wear. This is a classic and exceptional piece of Chanel. The fact that it is true Haute Couture is just the icing on the cake. It is meticulously made to the highest standards. It is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.

Fully hand lined in a fine black silk and has a hook and eye at the top of the neck. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. It is completely made by hand

Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38 3/4" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4179

Reference Photo: Fall 2000 Chanel Haute Couture Runway, Look 34.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this set in a different colour walked the runway for the Fall 2000 show for Look 11. My client ordered hers in black and that simple colour change makes it incredibly timeless. The suit is beautiful and so chic. I also have Look 17 from the show in the shop that has a longer jacket from the same client. True Haute Couture pieces by Chanel are an extraordinary find as they are so very rare and hard to come by. It is an incredibly beautiful and historically important example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period. It is absolutely gorgeous to see in person.

I love that this is a suit with a dress and jacket rather than a jacket and skirt. It makes it so versatile and you can mix and match both pieces and wear them in so many different ways. Both of the pieces are constructed from a find black wool that has a touch of texture. It is absolutely beautiful. The inner dress is cut in the sleek and simple shift that skims over the body and flares out slightly as it nears the ham. Clever and subtle seams shape the dress around you so that it's very flattering. I love the seaming detail at the neck to give it the feel that the fabric crosses over itself. It is hand lined in a rich black silk so feels like heaven on. The jacket slips over that and has slight shoulder pads for a touch of structure and the sleeves are long. It has meticulous seaming set in curving lines to create the shape that you see. There is a simple hook and eye closure at the neck and two functional pockets on each side. It is hand lined in that same high end black silk and there is a signature Chanel chain set around the hem. What really makes it exceptional is that ruffled piece that goes from the neck right to the hem. The ruffle gradually narrows down as it reaches the bottom hem and this adds an unexpected touch of detail and softness to the jacket. It also creates movement as it slightly moves as you move. On the dress this same fringe detail circles around the hem. When the two pieces are worn together this extra little detail softens the feel of the set and gives it a nice pretty and romantic touch. This is a stunning and timeless example of Chanel's Haute Couture work. It is meticulously made and it is a beautiful piece showcasing the work that the Chanel ateliers are capable of and of Karl's time there. Excellent condition.

Both the dress and the jacket are hand lined in a fine black silk. The dress closes with a back hidden set zipper that follows along an offset seam so that it looks to have no closure at all. The jacket has a hook and eye at the top of the neck. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Both pieces have an appropriate Haute Couture label and numbered tape present. Both pieces are completely made by hand

Jacket
Sleeve: 23.5"
Slightly inset shoulders: 15"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem

Dress
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4177

Reference Photo: Fall 2000 Chanel Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 11

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and quickly became one of the top couture ateliers in the world. In 1964, Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Pipart, who had previously worked for Balmain, Fath, and Patou brought a wide range of experience in all aspects of fashion to the brand. Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' He designed the Couture end of the label until 1998 making this a gown from one of his final seasons. This is an incredible and very beautiful piece of Haute Couture. Hey finding a gown at this level seems almost miraculous. It is truly one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen.

The twin of this dress walk the runway for the Haute Couture show that season and it was also photoed for L'Officiel that season and we also found a stunning editorial photo that caught it in the most spectacular shot. I love having all of this documentation because it shows you how phenomenal this dress is once on the body. This is truly a dress that you know has to be a true Haute Couture piece the moment you set your eyes on it. I think it is a work of art. The dress is strapless with an optional very tiny strap that comes out from the center of the bodice and wraps and ties around the neck. It will stay on with or without that small strap so it's your choice to wear it or not. The bodice is fitted to the body to hold the dress in place and the inner structure is outstanding. It is boned and cupped but all of that work is completely hidden underneath the silk lining. On the exterior the entire bodice is covered in glossy black beads that are spaced tightly together. The size of the beads vary as they run from the waist up to the top of the bodice. They are smaller around the waist and spaced further apart and then by the top of the bodice are so tightly spaced that they are almost stacked on top of each other. This creates a dense application of bead work that completely covers the black silk velvet base. In spots around the bodice are these large square-ish black pailettes for blocks of gloss to catch the light even more. Then interspersed among all of that are black iridescent feathers and long metallic strands. These are set to stand straight out from the bodice to create a cloud around you. The feathers add this fantastical sense of couture and fantasy. They also create incredible movement as each one moves independently from the other with the slightest bit of a breeze. The bodice is molded and shaped around you and then nips in the waist. The skirt under that is is a statement in its own right. It is an explosion of silk that poofs out all the way around you. The volume is so much that it almost creates a shelf as it come off of the hips. The silk curves up and under the hem to create a bubbled effect. It is shorter at the front so when you walk and sit you can see some leg. This helps to balance out the volume that surrounds you and add a flash of bare skin. It is longer at the back and depending on your height will trail out behind you just a touch. All of the volume is created by an inner structure that is hidden inside the skirt. You can feel stiffened netting and tulle that is all set inside the skirt so that the shape is held perfectly. I used no extra crinolines or anything else under the skirt to add volume when I shot these photos. The volume is all built in and the result of the masterful construction of this gown. The bead work is glass and between that and the sheer volume if the skirt the dress does have weight to it. When you hold this dress it is very heavy and you can feel that it is a Haute Couture piece. Once on the weight of it distributes and balances out wonderfully and the inner construction holds it all perfectly in place. This is truly an extraordinary piece of modern couture and is exceptionally beautiful. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. No matter how good you think it looks in the photos, it is better in person. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in silk with light burning through the bodice an additional added structure inside. The skirt loops under itself so the lining is the same fabric as the exterior. The skirt is filled with what feels like stiffened netting and tulle. This is placed throughout the entire skirt to give it the volume you see. There is an inner zipper to close the bodice and the waist stay to help the dress stay in place. Two tiny straps extend out from the center of the bodice and tie in place behind the neck. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The dress is finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. The proper Haute Couture label is present.

Waist: the inner waist stay has three hooks to accommodate a 23" 24" and 25" around waist size. If you left that unhooked or extended it the waist will accommodate up to a 26" sized waist.
Hips: open
Bodice: 10" from highest point of the bodice to the waist
Skirt: approx 17" from waist to shortest part of the front hem, 52" to the longest point of the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4240

Reference Photos: (1-3) Fall 1996 Nina Ricci Haute Couture Runway.  /  (4) Fall 1996 Nina Ricci Haute Couture. Photo by Bruno Bisang.  /  (5) Inna Zobova in Nina Ricci Haute Couture for L'officiel de la Mode n808, September 1996. Photo by Michel Nafziger.  /  (6-9) Jurnee Smollett, in this dress, at the Vanity Fair After Oscars Party, 2023.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an interesting dress because Yves used the same pink feather styling that he did in this collection for a longer but very similar Haute Couture version that season. On the runway this dress was styled with a pink feather collar and then produced without. From a practical stand point it does make it far easier to get multiple wears out of it. It otherwise is identical to the runway version in design. Yves was a designer who mixed and matched ideas from couture to ready-to-wear with ease. More so than other designers I find. Sometimes the crossover details like this one has are just fascinating to see because of that. It is also a great way to get the design and look of a couture piece at a the price of ready-to-wear. The dress is absolutely gorgeous and I'm happy to have a video reference as well as photo reference so that you can see just how beautiful this is on an actual body.

The dress dips into a V at the front and skims over the bodice to meet the slightly high set curved seam at the waist. A wide black silk satin ribbon wraps around the waist following the curved seam. Where it meets in the center there is a large bow with five loops and a knot in the center. Under the skirt falls in three tiered layers of a black textured silk chiffon what a fourth layer acting as a lining under all of those. The top layer has extra fabric in the center and dips down for a pretty line that helps give the illusion of length. It also add some more chiffon that can float and move around you when you move. The layering of the silk makes it opaque enough to wear but still allows for the transparency and the lightness of the fabric to be apparent. The sleeves are beautiful. Each one poufs above an elastic cuff. Under the elastic there is a full circle ruffled cuff with two more layers of the silk for the prettiest feminine finish. In theory you could have a tailor or seamstress add a button in collar made of pink feathers if you really wanted to emulate the look of the runway piece. Either way the dress is absolutely gorgeous. Excellent condition with one small note below

Fully line in a black silk through the bodice. The skirt has an inner lining of silk chiffon. It closes with a side set zipper that goes up and into the underside of the arm. And waist stay hooks to close. Elastic in each cuff. Tag and YSL 38. It looks like the bodice at the V was taken in a bit. Please see the photo after the label shot.

Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: no true shoulder seam
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14" from top of bodice to inner waist stay
Skirt: 25" from inner waist stay to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4167

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 1993 Yves Saint Laurent Reference Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This beautiful Yves Saint Laurent top is a true piece of Haute Couture amd comes directly from the original owner. It is a remarkable example of his work during this time period. I am hoping to find it exact date and then can also find the sketch of it which I will share with its new owner.

The workmanship on this top is absolutely exquisite. The top is entirely hand made and it is a work of art. It is made from a fine black silk velvet that is layered over a black silk chiffon inner base. The level of workmanship is extraordinary. The velvet is cut and embroidered to form an intricate floral and leaf pattern. Where it is open between the flowers and leafs you get that bit of transparent black with the silk chiffon. So it gives the illusion that you can see the bare body underneath while still completely covering you. It is an effect that is very sexy once on an actual body. Seeing it on the dress form just gives you a hint of it. The workmanship is extensive and the time it would have taken to create this piece is extraordinary since it would have all been pieced together by hand. The cut is kept simple so that the pattern takes center stage. The neck is scooped and the shoulders have light padding. I took a photo of one so you can see how even the shoulder pads are made by hand. The waist is brought in a touch but it really is meant to just skim over the body.  It is an absolute work of art and a stunning example of Haute Couture during this time period. Excellent condition

Backed in a black silk chiffon and closes down the back with a hand set zipper and then it snaps over that. The snaps are set to follow the pattern so that there is no closure shows at all. Entirely made by hand. Hand made light padding in each shoulder. Haute couture tag and numbered tape present.

Shoulders: 15.5"
Sleeves: 22
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# S979

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is from the Fall 1990 collection and came to me directly from the original couture client. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they said this of this collection; 'Yves Saint Laurent allowed himself to be truly audacious for this presentation of 137 designs. The Baroque style was evident in outfits were the a fairy tales.' Elle magazine summarized Saint Laurent's work as 'insouciance elevated to the rank of fine art.' .... and of the colours that he chose for the collection the New York Times noted that 'He works with a painter's eye, and the results are always satisfying, never soporific.' They also said that 'Lace is a cornerstone of evening dressing. Sometimes it is thick velvety guipure lace, sometimes spidery Chantilly. It never looks matronly.' This was one of the final dresses of the show and a beautiful example of all of those comments by the press. I am also very happy to have found the runway photo. With 137 looks shown finding this exact one from the handful of shots that are out there of the collection is almost miraculous. In addition to tall of that I have included a snap of the original sketch and fabric swatches from the boxed book set "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002". The dress has so much structure and form to it but once on the body it sits just perfectly and transforms into something magical.  It is an exceptional and well documented example of Laurent's Haute Couture work that he was doing during this time period.

A silk taffeta in a jeweled toned fuchsia sweeps across the top of the bodice and then extends down to form each sleeve. The fabric is gathered and ruched down the length of each arm. The shoulders are left bare to balance out the volume underneath and have that expanse of skin for a touch of sensuality. Under the fucshia is a wide band of a  slightly metallic copper silk that goes from the top of the bust the the slightly dropped waist. The silk has been gathered along each side to create soft pleats that wrap around you. The skirt comes out from under that in a series of soft gathers that open up to allow it to be quite wide by the time it reaches the hem. The underskirt is made from a pale purple silk and that is covered in a top layer of French black lace. The lace is hand made and has a stunning floral design set within medallions. These are repeated throughout the lace to create the beautiful pattern that you see. I love that the bottom edge of the lace follows the curving shape of the design that is in the lace. To finish Yves wrapped a wide green silk ribbon around the waist. This unusual colour choice is spectacular when you see it all together and on the body. This is a spectacular example of his work and a piece you would only ever normally see in a museum. Excellent condition 

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk. There is a built in silk covered elastic that is attached and wired right between the breast for a slight bit of support and then that wraps around you and hooks to close. It closes with a side set zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is a series of snaps above the zipper that run under the arm seam. Each sleeve zips to close at the wrist. The exterior layer of the skirt closes with its own a hand set side zipper. The silk ribbon belt is tacked into place on either side of the waist. On the interior of the skirt at the inner waist the fabric has been folded down and it looks like it would be possible to lengthen the skirt from there by just about 4". It looks to have been worn very little if at all.

Sleeves: 20" from where they start off the shoulder 
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to slightly dropped seam at the waist
Skirt: 38" from the slightly dropped seam at the waist to the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3598

Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Collection.  /  (2-3) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002"

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launches his own Haute Couture label in 1957 as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne.  He became known for his color sense and the young, sexy look of his clothes. In 1985 he won the Haute Couture Golden Thimble award and two years later he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier de L’Ordre de la Legion d’Honneur. His second Golden Thimble was given posthumously after his death in 1989. Michel Klein took over the couture division where he remained until 1996. This dress is from Klein's tenure as the Haute Couture director and label and it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing during his tenure there. Laroche once was quoted as saying “It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.” and I feel that this dress tries to live up to that thought while still maintaining the feel of couture during this mid-nineties.

This is the type of piece that is so bold and edgy that you will only ever find it in a Haute Couture piece. I feel like whoever ordered this one had it tweaked slightly from the runway presentation and made it better. The bodice is scooped across on a more graceful line (I don't love how it fits Kirsty Hume who is the model in the photo) and the back skirt feels longer. They also eliminated the bow at the front, opting instead for a single long panel falling at the back that matches the colour and fabric of the skirt. These small details add up to a big difference in how it presents. I also feel that the fit overall is far better then how it appears on the runway. It makes me wonder if there was a last minute substitution of the model for this piece, because in person the dress that I have here is a far better cut and fit overall then how it looks like in the runway shot. The dress is a mini dress that has an attached long panel on the skirt that wraps part way around you to leave the full front open under the mini skirt. The bodice is scooped wide and low at the front and made from a pale taupe silk. It extends down past the waist so a very short mini skirt that has a slight flare to it as it reaches the hem. The long skirt wraps around and is attached at the side of the waist. It is a soft olive toned green and done on that same rich heavy silk that has a slight satin finish. It falls to the floor in a long smooth drape of fabric. A wide silk cummerbund wraps around the waist to give shape. This narrows down at one end and hooks into place under a long swooping gold brooch which I believe is gold plated. The cummerbund has a long panel attached at the back and I have left it hanging as an extra panel. You could probably be clever and wrap /tie it to create a bow effect if you wished to emulate the runway photo more. The darkness of the sash around the waist is then picked up by the spectacular sleeves. Each is made out of a deep blue-black silk chiffon and are cut extra long. They are also cut wide and full to fall at an angle at the end of each sleeve. This bit of softness and transparency the sleeves have contrast sharply to the rich silk the rest of the dress is made from. It is a very unusual dress and shows the experimental side of couture. This is one of those dresses that when the right person wears it, it is going to blow people away. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in hand set silk that matches the colour of the exterior silk that is being lined. The sleeves are unlined. The dress closes with a hand set hidden back zipper and then there is another zipper that closes the inner mini skirt. The sash at the waist wraps and hooks into place. The brooch is detachable and shows sight patina on the gold. Proper couture label present. The dress is entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner silk of the long skirt is scuffed near the hem and I see slight grubbiness along the hem on parts. Please see the shot after the label photo.

Sleeves: 34" to the longest point
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Mini dress length: 31" from top of shoulder to hem
Full Length: 60" from shoulder to longest point of the hem
Waist sash: 26.5" in length to where the hooks presently sit with an extension past that that wraps and hooks into place

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4012

Reference Photo: Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Collection on Kirsty Hume.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.