Late 1950s, Early 1960 Eisa by Cristóba Balenciaga Couture Orange Coat
This coat is extraordinary. It bears the Eisa label, originally launched by Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1917. The name came from the shortening of his mother's maiden name. During the Spanish Civil war the label briefly closed but then re-opened in 1939 until it was closed permanently in 1968. Cristóbal himself oversaw this line and items were made to couture standards. Based on the cocoon silhouette and the work he was doing in that time period this coat dates to approx the late 1950s, early 1960s. Cristobal Balenciaga was known for his fine tailoring and sculptural approach to design. The restrained and refined lines of this coat showcase exactly that aesthetic. Even Dior himself declared Balenciaga as 'the Master of us all' and Balenciaga's impact on fashion cannot be underestimated. He passed away in 1968 so any time I acquire a piece that pre-dates his death, I am especially thrilled.
The coat bears that elusive Eisa label and would have been made by hand n the atelier. It is extremely well made as one would expect. Cristobal was known for doing fitting with clients himself, from the initial muslin stage all the way through to the final fittings. This coat, having been constructed during the years he was alive, means that it would be one of those a garments that were fitted by him. It is cut with the volume and curving cocoon silhouette that defined the era. I love how the buttons run almost right to the bottom hem. This in itself is unusual and a clue to who designed it without even seeing the inner label. It does up right to the collar. When it is completely close the collar is a small and neat circle around the neck that wraps over itself. When it is unbuttoned it softens and becomes more pointed and feels larger. A clever little design detail. The seams are cut gracefully on a vertical line and kept to the absolute minimum. The cut of the coat is simple, yet extremely beautiful. The subtlety of the seams is fabulous in person. The shoulders are dropped and curved. The arms cut tot just below the elbow. Volume is built in through the body. These are all classic elements of his iconic cocoon or egg coat. Front pockets are hidden along the seams that runs down the front. The fabric is a wonderful element all on its own in this coat. It is a nubby textured wool that has been dyed to a brilliant and striking orange with a hand dyed silk lining to match. The color alone makes it brilliant. It still feels insanely modern and is a rare and collectible piece of mid-century couture. Excellent condition
Lined in hand set orange silk taffeta. It buttons to close and has pockets on each hips. Each pocket is lined in silk. Proper button holes and hand finished. The easy cut will allow it to fit a range of sizes
Sleeves: approx. 21"
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: to 27" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.