yves saint laurent
Documented Fall 2001 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture 'Le Smoking' Suit w Exaggerated Collar
This is a slightly more dramatic version of Yves classic tuxedo suit. For the runway it was presented with a longer skirt and that one was shown for Look 38 of the Fall 2001 Haute Couture collection. My client ordered it with the pencil skirt you see so that she could have more options to wear it. The Fall 2001 collection was one of his final collections and to have a piece from this season is very special. Vogue noted that "Cocktail hour incorporated every possible variation on the tuxedo: There was a button-front dress, a smoking jacket that morphed into a full tulle skirt, and, naturally, an updated version of the masculine tux immortalized by Helmut Newton in the '70s." Yves play on the tuxedo and 'Le Smoking' suit is one of is most famous hallmarks that he first presented in 1966. His play on traditional menswear is lauded by many as 'having empowered women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power'. I have included runway photos, video and a photo of the original sketch. The sketch shot includes the fabric swatches above as per his atelier records and you can see it is the same fabric as this one. It is extraordinary set and I love it.
The extra wide collar is what sets this one apart from the many versions he did over the years. It is so bold and yet still elegant and refined in feel. There is nothing quite like the experience of slipping on a tailored to perfection piece of true Haute Couture. It somehow feels different and the feeling is something you can only really experience for yourself. The construction on both pieces is meticulous and it has been sourced from the original couture client. These tuxedo suits were all done a play on a men's tuxedo in mind and then were shaped and tweaked by Yves to be immensely flattering on the female body. It's looks simple but has master level tailoring behind it. The jacket has this sleek cut to it that follows the curves of the body. It is slightly cropped to sit just at the top of the hip. The lower part of the collar is finished in a black matte satin. It's size has been exaggerated to make it the focal point. under that is a single faceted button. Pockets are top set on each side and the shoulders are shaped. The fabric has a fine ribbing to it and it holds the lines perfectly. The skirt is cut into a simple pencil shape. I love that you separate pieces which gives you the versatility of being able to mix and match each piece with other things you already own. It is also a suit that depending on how do you style it, it can easily work for either day or as an evening suit. Yves tuxedo suits changed the way the world approached woman's wear and any example of the Le Smoking version is particularly collectible. This is a wonderful example of his couture tailoring. Itis an important piece of fashion history from one of his final collections. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Both pieces are hand lined in a black silk. The jacket closes with a button at the front and the skirt closes with a zipper and hook & eye at the waist. There are two pockets on the jacket. Both pieces are completely made by hand to couture standards. All proper Haute Couture tags present
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem at the front, 22 at the back
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23.5" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Reference Photos/Video: (1-7) Diana Gärtner for Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2001 Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 38. / (8-9) Sketches for the Fall 2001 Yves Saint Laurent Couture Collection as shown in the "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: The Complete Works" Book Set.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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