jacques heim

Exceptional 1950s Jacques Heim Golden Era Haute Couture Ultra Rare Purple-Gray Net & Handmade Lace Dress

  • This is an exceptional and very rare example of a Heim Haute Couture work from the late 1940s early 1950s.
  • It was made under the creative direction of Jacques Heim.
  • Jacques Heim began his career working at his parents fur business. In 1923 he took that business over and made it into his own vision. Heim began designing a line of made to order, in-house couture pieces that used original fabrics most notably those of Sonia Delauney. In 1930 his label became an official member of Haute Couture and his self-named label, Jacques Heim, was born. Jacques remained at the helm of his business until his death in 1967. The label closed in 1969.
  • This era of Couture was known as the golden era in part because of its excellence in every aspect to the art of Couture. This dress is everything you look for in an Haute Couture dress from this time period.
  • The dress is a phenomenal example of Couture and is made out of a hand dyed net and hand dyed, handmade lace.
  • The dress is completely made by hand and would have been made in his Paris atelier.
  • Wide straps curve up and over each shoulder and then the front neck and back are both scooped with a more shallow version at the front in a deeper one at the back. The opening across the shoulders is cut wider across so that you can wear this dress more on the outside of your shoulders and expose the collarbones.
  • It skims over the bust and is shaped and meant to be slightly more fitted. From there it nips in at the waist. The dress comes with its original matching belt that is also made by hand and covered in the same net and silk as the dress. The belt is slim in its cut and highlights the waist even more.
  • The skirt is truly outstanding. It is the perfect rendition of that 1950s full "New Look" feeling skirt that has come to be so associated with that era. The skirt is made from five layers of tulle that are hand dyed to this incredible soft taupey grey that has a hint of purple in its undertone. These five layers sit on top of multiple layers of inner skirting. All of the volume that you see here is created from the stocking of all those layers. I have added nothing extra underneath for these photos, though I think you could make it even fuller if you took the time to starch out every single layer.
  • Onto the very top layer of netting are hand applied strips of handmade lace that have been added in vertical rows. Fees stand down and over the bodice to the waist. From there they trail down the skirt to end in various lengths. This has been done all the way around you and the final effect this creates is beautiful. It is hard to imagine the length of time this all would have taken by hand.
  • The dress closes with a back metal zipper and the belt buckles to close. The inner bodice is boned for structure and all the hand work is done to Couture standards. An inner waist stay hooks to close. The skirt is made from multiple layers of netting as described above. I see a tiny bit of wear near one grommet of the buckle, one tiny repair in the netting and a faint mark on the skirt. These are all extremely minor but mentioned for accuracy.
  • There is no size tag present since it is true Couture so please go by the measurements below.
  • Excellent condition.

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14.5" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 45" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED 

Item# DD5296

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SIZE GUIDE

Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.

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