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james galanos
Gorgeous 1960s James Galanos Meticulously Pleated Black Silk Chiffon Dress w Elaborate Belt
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This is a spectacular example of Galanos and the evening dresses that he did so very well. James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this dress is fantastic.
The belt alone on this dress is what vintage dreams are made of. It is tacked all the way around the waist and it is this thick braided black cord that has rose of rhinestones attached to it. The belt has then been tied into big knots that are perfectly spaced from each other and then it ends in this elaborate silk fabric tassel that is unlike any tassel I have seen. It snaps into place at the front or you could wrap and tie it if you wished. It has such impact and it elevates the entire dress even more. The label on this dress is the one that dates from 1963-1977 and this is my personal favourite time period of his work. The fabric is a beautiful light weight black silk chiffon for the bodice and sleeves and then the skirt is a black silk jersey. The cut of the dress is incredible. The neckline is a slight scoop and then the dress skims over you to the waist. The waist is slightly dropped and seamed but a little more on the generous side and then the belt adds a touch of shape. The bodice is incredible. The entire thing has been done in tiny little knife pleats that are meticulously spaced and lined up. These run vertically down the front and the back. The very edge of the neckline has been piped with a tiny bit of silk for a finished look. It is just incredible to see and it is all done to the level of work that you are only going to find in vintage. The work is all done by hand. The sleeves are equally as fabulous. Each is made out of a single layer of the silk chiffon and are cut to be very full so that they balloon out over their cuffs. The sleeves are also pleated but in a wider pleat than the ones on the bodice. This gives some contrast to the pleating on the bodice and also allows the sleeves to fully open up and have the billowing fullness that you see. Even the cuffs are pleated and the pleating on each cuff perfectly matches the size of the pleats on the bodice. The skirt falls from the waist and is gathered in tiny delicate pleats all the way around the waist. This allows the skirt to flare and open out as it nears the floor. There is an incredible amount of fabric in it. The workmanship in this dress is fabulous It really showcases just what a genius he was. Excellent condition with a note below
Fully lined in a black silk through the bodice and closes with a back zipper. Each cuff button to close with little embroidered dome buttons. I see a repair near the hem of the skirt and I feel like the zipper sticks slightly. Please see the photo after the label shot. Hand finishes throughout and beautifully made
Sleeves: 22.5"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 17.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 56" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4609
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Fabulous 1970s Valentino Black Silk Cropped Pants & Black Silk Top Set w Gold Detailed Ruffled Collar
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This is a fabulous fall 1970 cropped pant and top set from the Valentino boutique label. Valentino launched his ready-to-wear label in 1962, two years after opening his first salon in Rome. He eventually expanded and added other boutiques locations after that. The New York boutique launched in the fall of 1970 and it caused a sensation. Traffic was backed up 3 blocks with everyone who was anyone trying to get in on opening night. He wanted everyone to have the Valentino experience and he often brought in the designs that he created for his main couture label into the boutique work. In these early days especially they were remarkably close in quality and the line between the two labels was often blurred. On this set you can see that in the hand finishing that is has.
The set is gorgeous and in the hands of the right person will be a fantastic statement piece. The silk of the pants is slightly heavier than the silk of the top and it has a slight sheen finish to it. They button and zipper to close at the waist and there are loops if you want to add a belt. Slanted pockets sit on each hip. They skim over the hips and are a bit fuller through the leg. They are cropped and what I think is especially interesting about them is that they have an inner piece built into each leg that is a slightly slimmer and made out of a black velvet. Each is adorned with three buttons down the side to give the impression that you are wearing a pant over a pant. The top is made out of an opaque black silk that is very fine and light. It is cut very generously so that it is very easy to wear. It buttons down the front and hooks at the waist. The waist is elastic and we've added a ribbon to define it a little bit more. The sleeves come out from the waist and the shoulder so they are very wide and full right to the cuff where they button in. This lets the sleeves billow out fantastically above the cuffs. Inside there are rounded shoulder pads. These are very interesting because they have an attached loop to them that you actually loop your arm through so that the top stays in place despite it's full and generous cut. The collar goes all the way around the neck and has six layers of black netting that is trimmed with a black lace. Each layer has little metallic gold flowers embroidered onto the netting. This add the perfect little dash of glitz to the outfit. You can wear the ruffles more flat and down or you can really fluff them out so that they wrap around your neck and frame your face. I love the versatility of having the two pieces because you can wear it together as a set or mix and match it with existing pieces in your wardrobe to get many outfits out of it. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The pants are fully lined in a black silk and zipper to close at the front. The top is unlined and closes with buttons and hook and eye. Elastic though the waist of the top. The ribbon around the waist of the top is not original but will be included. Each cuff buttons to close with two buttons and the inner waist stay on the top hooks to close. Pockets on the hip of the pants. Hand finishes throughout. The top is tagged a vintage Valentino size 8 and the pants a 6. Padding in each shoulder. I see a tiny mark on the inside of the padding on one shoulder and some light press marks / very light scuffing around the seams of the pants and on the fabric of the legs of the pants. Comes with its original necktie and the waist ribbon we added.
Top
Sleeves: no defined seam
Shoulders: approx 26"
Bust: no true side seams
Waist: The inner waist stay is 25" end to end and the outer top stretched form 27-38" end to end
Length: 28" from neck to hem
Pants
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 35" from waist to hem with 4" turned under the hem
Inseam: 22"
Gusset: 15.5" from back of waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4610
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
Superb Late 1970s James Galanos Multi Layer Black Silk Chiffon Dress w Removeble Ruffled Collar
I Have a Question
James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this dress is a stunning example of his work. It is one of those dresses that really needs to be on an actual body to come to life but once it is on a body it is even better than what you see here. These black chiffon dresses that are all bias cut are almost impossible to photo properly on a dress form and only come to life once on.
This dress is spectacular and it is in its original uncut length. The dress is made out of four full layers of silk chiffon through the skirt that are perfectly stacked on top of each. The sleeves are made of two layers of the same silk chiffon and then the bodice is backed in a black silk to make it opaque. This dress is also interesting, because the way that the skirt is set into the back uses the same technique as this 1957 dress I that I have had in the shop before and whose version resides in the Met's collection. You can click through the link in the previous sentence to see that for reference and it gives you a bit of an idea of how this dress will look on the body but backwards. In the Vogue's description at the time the skirt was described as being; 'narrow in outline, but with beautiful easy folds from the waist, falling in self contained spirals' which is a lovely way to describe the way that it is set into the dress. I love that he referenced his own work in this way. The fabric is a beautiful light weight black silk chiffon that floats over the body. The skirt is cut so that it gathers up and into the middle of the dress at the back. This gives it that lovely draping down the back and it extends out a little longer at the hem. A high slit is also hidden in the draping so when you walk you get a flash of your legs. At the front the skirt has a very minimal feel that I love. The bodice above that is cut to skim and blouse over the body to the waist and the waist is cut with a more generous feel. You could add a belt if you wanted to cinch that in more and give it more shape. Adding a belt would also bring the waist line up a bit and give you even more of a blousing feel unless you put the belt a little lower at the top of the hip. The neck is high and then at the back it buttons down to close across the top of the back shoulders. I think that you could actually wear the dress either way and just have the hem fall a little longer at the front if you wished because it is that well-made. It has a more oversized feel through the top that is intentional and then the skirt is more narrow. The sleeves are spectacular and each one is cut wide and extremely full above the ruffled wrist. They are set deep into the bodice with a little bit of pleating around the top. so you get a touch of a capped feeling sleeve. The dress came with its original matching neck ruffle that hooks into place around the neck. I love how this in essence gives you two different dresses. If you choose not to wear the ruffle, it feels minimalist and stark from the front and when you add the ruffle it adds that extra bit of glamour and movement around the neck. It is a fabulous addition to the dress and it really showcases just what a genius he was. Excellent condition
Both pieces are fully lined in a black silk chiffon as described above. It closes with a low painted metal zipper at the waist and then has a row of buttons above that. Hand finishes. It appears to have been worn very little if at all.
Sleeves: 27"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 20" from neck to waist
Total length: 69" from neck to front hem, 73" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4611
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Shop The Look
SHOP BY ERA
1970s
“The street and me is a love story. 1971 is a great date because, finally, fashion took to the street.”
— Yves Saint Laurent
SHOP BY ERA
1980s
“I didn’t like the ‘80s at all; it was a vulgar moment of fashion.”
— Valentino Garavani
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1990s
“I don’t get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day.”
— Linda Evangelista
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