bob mackie
Dreamiest Fall 1989 Bob Mackie Runway Silk Chiffon w Metallic Leaf Print Underlay Strapless Dress
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This is the second of this dress I have had in the shop and I was surprised to find another so soon after having the first. Its twin walked the Fall 1989 show and I love that we have the reference photo for you to see how it looks on the body. The runway look was styled with a metal belt and I love that it shows you that with a simple switch of what you choose to wear around the waist you can give the dress a different feel. Bob Mackie became a household name when he started dressing Cher. He started off his career freelancing for costumers Edith Head and Jean Louis and it was while there that he sketched the design for Marilyn Monroe's famous 'Happy Birthday, Mr. President' dress. He met fellow costume designer Ray Aghayan who eventually became his life partner. Together they designed costumes for Hollywood and created a made to order line of RTW. That led to his incredible journey in designing for stars like Cher and Diana Ross for many years and the launch of his own label. His work helped to define an entire era of high glamour on the small screen and beyond.
The dress is made out of a stunning ombre deep dusky pink and taupe silk chiffon. Then under the top layer of the silk is a second layer of silk chiffon that has these incredible gold and silver thread leafs worked through the silk. These shimmer through under the top layer and create a beautiful depth and unexpected glimmer when you move and as they catch the light. It is a combination that is stunning to see together. The bodice is strapless and it has an inner shaped corset that is boned and shaped for support and to stay perfectly in place. The top of the bodice is peaked at the sides and then it is slightly rounded as it dips down and into the centre. Onto the bodice the silk chiffon has been gathered and softly draped so that it follows the curve of the bust and then slightly overlaps at the front. It does the same at the back where it meets at the centre set zipper. The waist cinches in and the dress comes with its original matching silk sash that you can tie and style around the waist or the neck. The skirt flows out from under there and it is made up of yards and yards of feather light silk chiffon. There are two layers of the bias cut silk stacked on top of each other and then an inner silk layer that sits next to the body. The top two layers of chiffon are feather light and the movement they create as they float over each other as you move is just incredible. It is incredible to see in person and the colour has a touch softer feel to it then how it photoed. That little bit of added glamour and drama from the gold and silver under that top layer of chiffon elevates the dress that much more. I love it. Excellent condition
The bodice of the dress is fully lined in a copper brown silk. The skirt has an inner nude layer of silk under the top two layers of bias cut silk chiffon as described above. The bodice is shaped and boned inside and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. A tiny touch of wear at the top off each peak and a small darkening to the skirt that gets lost int he folds of the skirt. Please see the photo after the label shot. It closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam with room for at least a C cup at the front
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 12" from top of the tallest point of the bodice to waist
Total length: 56" from tallest point of the bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4612
Reference Photos: Fall 1989 Bob Mackie Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
valentino
Gorgeous Early 2000s Valentino Roma Bias Cut Floral Print Dress w Bright Pops of Coral Red
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The Valentino Roma label launched in 2000 to take the place of the Miss V line. It was sold at a price point that was a bit more accessible then their main line and was meant to be available in more shops then the main line would be. The pieces were still very well made. This one caught my eye simply because of how gorgeous and sexy it is. It is a stunning dress with a beautiful amount of detailing on it.
I love this dress with its amazing use of bias cut silk chiffon. These bias cut silks are always an incredibly difficult fabric to work with and Mr Valentino and his team were masters at it. The silk is so light that you get this fantastic floating sensation all around you with your slightest move. The dress is suspended from the one single shoulder that curves up and over the shoulder with a little gather of the silk at the top. The strap glides into the fabric of the bodice and then the dress drapes over the body to the hem. On the other side the dress dips low and to hold everything in place there is a second tiny star there as well. The silk is all bias cut and the shape that you see is from the incredible way the fabric has been laid out and gathered up and into the one side. The top of the bust is angled down and over you and it does the same at the back. The shape though the waist is created by a seam there and I love that it is cut more generously so it feels easy to wear. If you wanted a really cinched in look you could belt it as well. the silk gathered into that sequin leaf and this makes it very easy and comfortable to wear. Under that the dress cascades to the floor in many yards of feather light silk chiffon. This is where the dress gets truly magical. Two layers of the silk chiffon flow over each other and it is all cut on the bias. The layers flow out in an ever widening silhouette to the ground on one side and on the other the hem curves up with a slit that shows some leg when you walk or sit. The fabric ruffles out around that opening and it is very pretty. It is very flattering on the body and it creates a fantastically dramatic effect as the silk floats around you with the slightest bit of movement. This is a stunning dress. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellentcondition
Made of two layers of the same printed silk chiffon and closes with hook and eye down the side of the bocce and a hidden set side zipper under the waist at the side. Tagged a vintage Valentino 44/8
Bust: 17-23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 75" from top of shoulder to longest point of hem. On the shorter side it is 32" from the top of shoulder to the top of the slit on the skirt on that side
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4605
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
celine
Spring 2017 Celine by Phoebe Philo Runway Look 4 Basket Weave Print Jersey Dress w Open Cut Outs
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This dress was so well documented and photoed when it came out for the Spring 2017 collection it is almost mind boggling. It is instantly recognizable as Phoebe's work and it is amazing. This is the second time we have had it in the shop and I remember that when we started to hunt for references for it we found all the ones that are here, plus there are probably more out there that I just have not yet seen. It is an insanely good dress. All of Phoebe Philo's pieces for Celine have reached cult status and the prices are just continuing to rise. Her work is a must have for the vintage collector and this is a particularly hard to find dress that is rare and collectible.
The dress is made from a stretch jersey and this one is finished in a mic of browns - one of the three colours and patterns that were released in this style of dress. The bodice is set over the bust with a wide flat cut at the top and then it angles down to the keyhole at the waist. There are elastic straps that you slip your arms through and the front just skims over you. The back is left completely bare and dips quite low so your entire back is bare and open. The key hole at the front is set so that it is twisted over itself and just this little detail alone give you a glimpse into the magic of Pheobe's vision and quirky aesthetic. The skirt is suspended from that knotted keyhole at the waist. Elastic runs through the top of it so it is very forgiving and accommodating. The skirt widens out into a loose and easy draping of jersey to the hem. Once you have slipped on the dress it simply hangs and drapes down and around your body. It is incredibly comfortable and easy to wear while still being devastatingly sexy. The jersey has a lot of stretch so the size on the tag is almost meaningless. This is true fashion history and one of the most documented pieces I have ever seen. A testament to the genius of Phoebe and the impact of her work on fashion. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition
Unlined but the fabric is opaque. It slips on to wear with elastic at all the edges. It is tagged a 40 and should fit a range of sizes from probably about a 4 to a 8 or 10 with ease depending on your frame. The area through the waist will drape and curve down more on a smaller frame. Original uncut length and it appears to have never been worn or worn very little. The fabric has incredible stretch so it should fit a large range of sizes.
Bust: covers to 24"+ flat across the front
Waist: 16-24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 15" from top of shoulder to elastic waist
Total length: approx 63" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4603
Reference Photos/Video: (1-5) Spring 2017 Celine Runway Collection. Look 4. Model: Mali Koopman. / (6) Edie Campbell photographed by Mikael Jansson, Vogue Paris, March 2017. / (7) Daphne Groeneveld phtographed by Zoltan Tombor for The Sunday Times Style, March 2017. / (8) Photo by Choi Yongbin, Harpers Bazaar Korea, 2017. / (9) Jip Boxstart photographed by Van Mossevelde for D La Republica, February 2017. / (10) credit unknown. / (11) Shin Min Ah photographed by Kim Yeong Jun for Elle Korea. April 2017. / (12-13) Vogue Australia's fashion director Christine Centenera in Celine at Vogue Australia’s 60th Anniversary Supper, December 2019. Photos by Hugh Stewart.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
john anthony
Exceptional 2004 John Anthony Couture Brown Velvet Heavily Hand Embroidered & Beaded Jacket
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John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This jacket is from his Fall 2004 collection and is the original sample from his archives.
The first thing you notice about this jacket is the extensive embroidery. It is incredible to see. The base is a deep brown velvet and then onto that is an extensive pattern that is made from hand applied black silk cording little metal mash pieces formed into leaves, and then there are thousands of different size gold beads and sequins that are hand applied over that. Please create this fantastic 3-D pattern that pops off the base and is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. This gives it weight yet once on the body it does not feel uncomfortable to wear. It is stunning. It has a beautiful tailored cut and it sits wonderfully on the body. This one has a single closure at the base of the silk collar and because of the way it is cut you could potentially wear it on its own or layered over something. It is that easy but super luxe piece you just throw on and go. The shoulders have light padding and the sleeves fall from there in a straight sleek line to the cuff. The waist is brought in with meticulous shaping and seaming so it has a beautiful curve. There is a hidden hook and eye to keep it closed. The hips flare out from there for beautiful shape. It is meticulously tailored. John told me that creating jackets was one of his favourites things to do. They are infinitely challenging to have them sit perfectly on the body and his are tailored to a master level. The collar is a gorgeous rich chocolate coloured silk and it is a neat rounded shape that plunges down the front in a sleek V. ThIs one is more fitted through the entire body of the jacket. The beads, silk cording, sequins and other appliqués are all applied by hand and are set into a dense pattern that covers the entire jacket. To think of the man hours put into this jacket is incredible. The personal attention to each piece is clearly seen in the workmanship of his designs. His work is very expensive and beaded jackets like this retailed for up to $10,000 and more during this time period which would be around $25k in modern dollars to recreate at this level. This is the actual sample jacket and it is gorgeous. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk with a hook and eye closure at the front. Padding in each shoulder. Made by hand, one of a kind and pristine.
Sleeves: 25" long and 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Lower seam: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4578
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Elegant Fall 1981 John Anthony Couture Hand Beaded Brown Silk Chiffon Top & Skirt Set
I Have a Question
John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This dress is one of two pieces I have from his Fall 1981 collection and both are the original samples from his archives. No photos were found of the runway presentation of these exact two pieces but we did find a series of photos of pieces with the same beadwork so you can get an idea of how beautiful they are on the body.
The fabric this dress is made out of is a light weight silk chiffon in a deep brown colour. This is a set and I love that this gives you that bit of added versatility of having the skirt and top to mix and match or wear together. Onto the chiffon is a dense application of beads that are set in vertical rows that cover almost all of the dress except for the top of the bodice. This is done deliberately and acts as a part of the pattern of the piece. All of the beads have been applied by hand in perfect little rows onto the silk. This makes the set glimmer softly from every angle. Both pieces have a simple and easy cut so that they are easy to wear and are very flattering on the body. The neckline of the top is a simple scoop and closes with a hook and eye at the back of the neck above a keyhole. The bodice is cut to skim down over you to the waist. The waist is finished with elastic and the bodice is meant to pouf and curve under you a touch like how I photoed it. The skirt has a banded waist and falls to the floor under that in a swoop of fabric flaring out a touch as it nears the hem. It has a high slit on one side that has dangling beads hanging down and over the opening. The sleeves are completely beaded in the same vertical rows of beads and then they fall in a straight cut to the wrist for a touch of fullness. They are gorgeous when worn together. The work has all been done by hand and the workmanship is fantastic. They fall like a dream once on the body. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Fully lined in a second layer of nude silk chiffon. The top closes with a hook and eye above a keyhole at the back of the neck and has elastic at the bottom seam. The skirt closes with hook and eye at the waist and a zipper under that. There are minor missing areas of beads here and there and some of the dangling beads over the skirt seam are missing. Please see the photo after the label shot for an example. The sample tag is stitched inside the cuff of one sleeve.
Top
Sleeves: 23"
Shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: 14-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 45" from waist to hem
Slit: 27" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4571
Reference Photos: Fall 1981 John Anthony Ready to Wear Advance Preview.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Spectacular Fall 1988 John Anthony Bias Cut Taupe Silk Chiffon Wrap Dress w Hand Made Lace Detailing
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John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This dress is from his Fall 1988 collection and is the original sample from his archives. We found a photo of a dress on the runway from this same collection with the same cut through the top so you can get an idea of how this will sit on the body. John told me that this dress was made for the runway as well and was edited out once the final line up was done. I love this dress and am so happy to let it have its full moment now. His work is amazing on the body and transforms once it is on and moving.
This dress is absolutely stunning and it is among my favourites from the pieces he has sent to us so far. It is very light in weight once on the body. It is made from the most beautiful feather light silk chiffon. Bias cut silk chiffon is incredibly hard to work with and for this dress he has layered it with each layer falling perfectly over each other. The dress is made of three layers of the chiffon. The two innermost layers are unadorned and then the top layer has the black lace detailing added to it. It slips on and zips up at the front and this is all cleverly hidden with a panel that wraps and snaps into place to one side. The snaps continue down under the lace detail on the skirt. The snaps only close it part of the way and a thigh high slit is left so that when you walk you will see a mile of bare leg. The front plunges into a V and there is a caped feeling panel of hand made black French lace that drapes over the shoulders for the prettiest romantic touch. This wraps all the way around the back and I love how it drapes there. The lace at the front curves down and to the side and then trails all the way down the skirt to the hem. A wide order of it is placed all the way around the hem. I love the way the lace is all perfectly and meticulously set onto the silk with thousands of tiny precise stitched done to hold it in place and follow the pattern in the lace. This is couture level detailing. At the back, the skirt extends out a bit past the hem to sweep behind you as you walk. The silk is so light that your slightest movement causes it to float around you. It is very beautiful. Excellent condition.
Made of three layers of silk chiffon as described above and closes with a hidden set front zipper and then hidden set snaps down the side. Hand finished throughout.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 14" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 64" from top of shoulder to front hem, 76" to the longest point of the back hem
Slit: 34" from front hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4555
Reference Photo: Fall 1988 John Anthony Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Softest Fall 1994 Christian Lacroix Runway Knit Printed Striped Slouchy Cardigan w Original Belt
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Christian LaCroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and was an instant success on the worldwide stage. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections are always exotic, lavish affairs and his designs seemed to span the decades with their eccentric glamour pulled from multiple sources of inspiration. The twin of this cardigan was shown on the fall 1994 runway and you can see how fantastic it is on the body. It's that perfect piece that walks the line between being easy and comfy and still glamorous.
This is a beautiful example of Christian's ready-to-wear work and it is made to be slightly oversized and easy to wear with an almost lounging robe feel to it in its cut. It is a piece that you can wear open and layered over other things or wrap and use the belt that comes with it or one of your own to have to feel more like a coat or to even be able to wear it on its own. It is made out of a mixed knit that is insanely soft to the touch and feels soft on the body so that it has the easy organic lines that you see. Everything about it is meant to convey ease and luxury. It has no closures and just slips on. The shoulders slope down and into those fabulously long ribbed cuffed sleeves. You can push the sleeves up, wear them long or roll them. The body of the cardigan is loose and generously cut. Pockets sit low on each hip and the collar has a wide shawl feel to it. The entire bottom is one in a ribbon to pick up the cuffs. It is gorgeous and once on, you won't want to take it off. Excellent condition.
Unlined with no closures but does come with its original twist tie belt. Tagged a size M but the loose and easy for will work on a large range of sizes. The smaller you are the more it will feel oversized.
Sleeves: 22" from he dropped shoulders
Dropped shoulders: 26"
Bust- hips: 29" flat across from side to side and narrows to about 23"at the ribbing
Length: 32" from neck to hem and hangs a bit longer once on the body
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-LRG
Item# DD4524
Reference Photo: Fall 1995 Christian Lacroix Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Documented Spring 1961 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan 'Slim Line' Haute Couture Debut Silk Jacket & Skirt Suit
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This is an incredible set that is extra special because it is from the debut Haute Couture collection of Marc Bohan. It has the added province of being documented which is sometimes not easy to find with these very early pieces. The book Dior, Catwalk talks about the reaction to this first collection by Bohan; "Thundering applause, led by the Duchess of Windsor, rolled through the elegant grey and white salons of the House of Dior, the happy ending to the suspense story of the fashion year. At stake was the future dominance of Dior, and the career of designer Mark Bohan. The Chicago Tribune hailed him as being "Mister Dior, the third". The New York Times stated "the shouting, clapping, surging mob at the press show cause chaos in the elegant salon. Bohan was pushed up against the boiserie, kissed, mauled and congratulated. Chairs were toppled. Champagne glasses were broken. People were knocked down. It was a complete triumph for the designer". The book goes on to state that; Bohan called the collection the "Slim Line". It was a streamlined take on the original "New Look". He revisited the day suit with wide cut jackets and low waisted flared skirts fitted at the hips. The Times declared it "a success from the appearance of the first model and worthy in the tradition of the great maestro himself. And Women's Wear Daily wrote three months after the collection was shown that "the Bohan flare is everywhere. Bohan has done the impossible. He is a big commercial success and respected by the fashion intellect."
The set is exceptional and is an excellent investment piece as well. Dior prices continue to skyrocket and finding couture examples like this from such an important collection and in this condition is getting harder and harder.
This suit is fantastic. It is actually two pieces. A flared skirt and then a top / jacket that goes over that. The top is fascinating in the way that it is cut and we were very happy to find and see in the reference photo of it that its construction is deliberate. The front only buttons at the bottom and then there is a snap just above that button to hold it closed. It is meant to stay open above that and the button holes that you see continuing up along the edge of the jacket are actually faux. They do not open all the way through. You can see in the photo that the model is wearing it the way that it's meant to be worn. The very bottom is closed and then she has a light top on underneath. This lets the jacket play on its volume that it has. You could certainly open the fabric and finish the buttonholes if you wish to wear it fully closed, but it is meant to be like this. The jacket has a lot of volume and is meant to skim over you and then the skirt is cut in a sleek little flare that skims over the hips and flares out with a series of flat pleats all the way around the skirt. Around the waist the silk lies flat and neat. It is very flattering once on the body. When you stand still the skirt lays flat and smooth but when you move you get an incredible burst of movement and volume. Over that goes the jacket with its wonderful to the elbow wide cut sleeves and oversized MOP buttons down the front. The shoulders are soft and there is no collar. The fabric is a very high end silk twill dyed to that pale tan mixed with white. Both pieces are entirely finished by hand to Haute Couture standards and I've shown some of the detailing inside. It is chic and elegant yet still feels edgy. An amazing find. Excellent condition
The jacket is lined in a fine silk in the same colour as the exterior tan and the skirt is interlined in a white silk organza. The jacket closes with the bottom button only and a hidden snap above that as described above. The skirt closes with hook & eye at the waist and hidden snaps below that. Completely done by hand to Haute Couture Standards. Proper numbered couture label in place on the jacket. There are some natural, variations and lines in the silk that is inherent to this type of fabric and should not be considered a flaw. It is in remarkable condition.
Jacket
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16-17"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from waist to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4484
Reference Photo: Christian Dior Haute Couture Printemps-Ete 1961. Photo Emerick Bronson. Model Nicole de Lamargé.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
romeo gigli
Important 1990 Romeo Gigli One Off Haute Coutre Full Wedding Dress Set w Flower Filled Chiffon Coat & Accessories
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Every so often I am contacted by someone and entrusted with something very special and this wedding set by Romeo Gigli absolutely fits that bill. This incredible set is a one of a kind, Haute Couture made to measure piece that comes directly from its original owner and she has graciously given all of the original documentation on it to share with you along with a full write up on her experience with Romeo and a scan of the Elle article that was written a year after her wedding.
Romeo Gigli launched his label first in 1981 which failed. In 1983 he partnered with Carla Sozzani and in 1985 he presented a 25 piece collection in Milan. By 1986 he was an international sensation and his collections made world wide headlines. In 1989 he had his Paris debut. His work was romantic but dramatic. Hallmarks included shawl coats, which this set so perfectly displays, along with soft sloping shoulders and silhouettes that narrow as they come down the body. Historical references run through his work and his de-structured lines felt fresh and new.
This set has all of the original pieces that Marion wore on her wedding day and even includes the original boxes and silk bags that the set was delivered in. Every piece was made in studio by hand and when I tell you that my photos do not do the full set justice I have never been more honest as everything is more beautiful in person. This is a once in a life time opportunity to own this incredible and important piece of fashion history. The link to Marion's story is below and a short description of the pieces follows.
The wedding ensemble consists of a pale pink silk chiffon top, a gold lace hobble skirt and a deep gold silk jacket or top that was worn over those two pieces. An incredible silk chiffon coat that is filled with silk flowers and flows behind you in a knotted train was worn over that. The original pale taupe velvet shoes in their original box are present along with the hand made hair sticks and pins. The two original pink raw silk hand made bags that the skirt and tops were delivered in are included and the entire ensemble comes in its original raw silk covered box. The final piece included is the little hand held green silk bag that Marion carried that day.
The skirt and inner top are the base of the outfit. The top is slightly cropped and made from a pale dusty peach pink silk chiffon. The chiffon has been hand gathered into soft pleats and crosses itself over the front and back. It wraps around you and closes on one side, inside, with a series of silk covered buttons and then the other side wraps over that and closes at the back outside with buttons as well. The skirt is made out of fine gold lace and is banded around the waist for shape. It drapes softly over the body with volume through the hips created by the layers. It narrows down at the ankles for a touch of a hobble skirt in appearance with the ends curving up and under. It is an incredible design.
An oversized silk top goes over this that has a bit of volume through the body. It is made from a deep copper gold silk with a burnished finish. The sleeves are incredibly long and are meant to be gather along the arms and follow the cut and curve of them. The collar is very high and wired so that it stands and frames the face beautifully. One side is longer then the other and you can shape the wire to give it a quirky little curve in the direction and way that works best for you. I love the open cut out just under the collar. It hints at the silk chiffon top underneath and adds an unexpected flash of skin.
The coat is utterly remarkable. It is thoroughly Romeo Gigli in spirit and it is one of the most beautiful, magical things I have ever seen. It has those beautiful sloped shoulders he was known for and the front flips over into a deep shawl collar. It slips on over everything else with no front closures. It just falls over you in this exceptional drape of chiffon and flowers and then trails out behind you. The end has been knotted and I love this detail as it is absolutely Gigli at his best. The coat is made from a silk chiffon outer and inner layer that has a touch of transparency to it while inside and between the layers are thousands of silk flowers. Each would have been placed by hand one by one to form a solid layer of flowers that shows through the silk. It has weight yet it feels weightless. It has presence yet it feels ethereal. The top layer of the chiffon is a pale dusty pink and then the inner layer is a pale taupe. The flowers float between the two and it make this light rustling sound as it moves that it magical. It is one of the best things I have ever personally seen.
Finally are the accessories. Her original velvet shoes that slide on and then tie in place, the little green silk bag that is held by the tied straps and the various hand made hair and stick pins in their original box.
The entire set will be sent in it original box hand covered in a deep dusty pink raw silk as it came to Marion from the Gigli ateliers.
Everything is in superb condition. I see a teeny smudge of discoloration under the arms of the inner silk chiffon top and the wear to the soles of the shoes giving away the clue that it was worn that day. The silk on the large box it came in has more wear as seen in the photos
This is a once in a life time, absolutely remarkable piece of fashion history.
Inner top
Shoulders: no true seams
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 14" from top of shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from waist to hem and including the 4" waist band
Outer top
Sleeves: 39" from the dropped shoulder seam and are around 11" arond after the dropped shoulder
Shoulders: 27" across and meant to drop significantly
Bust: 30" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 27" flat across from side seam to side seam and narrows to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam by the hem
Length: 41" from neck hem
Neck: 13" around
Coat
Is about 36" flat across the inner bust and it is about 120" long from the neck to end past the knot and not including the deep shawl collar. It is pretty much OSFA
Bag
Approx 9.5" tall and about 5-7" in diameter
Shoes
Approx a 40-41
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED for the inner outfit and the coat is OSFA
Item# DD4458
Reference Photos: Courtesy of Marion Hume. (1-2) Fitting with Romeo Gigli. / (3-7) On the wedding day.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
mr blackwell
Stunning 1968 Mr Blackwell Custom Deep Copper Gold Silk Dress w Hip Swag & Flower Pin
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Richard Blackwell launched his label in the late 1950s and even at that time his dresses sold for between $800 and $1000, which in modern dollars converts to up to $10,000 a dress. Huge numbers for this time period. He dressed many of the big stars of the day including Jane Russell, Dorothy Lamour and Jayne Mansfield. His 'custom' label were the pieces that were made-to-order and were one-of-a-kind pieces that were fitted to a specific client in the couture tradition. This dress came directly to me from the original client which is how I have its exact date. It is an extraordinary dress from this time period and very beautiful
This dress is absolutely incredible and it is stunning to see it in person. The fabric is amazing in its own right and it would not be something you could produce anymore in our modern world. It is a luxurious deep copper gold silk that hold the lines and shape of the dress perfectly. The cut is pure Old Hollywood. The bodice is fitted to your curves and it is suspended from the shoulders by two tiny straps in the same fabric. Vertical panels and seams create the shape of the bodice and these all lead into a sharply angled seam that starts at the waist on one side and dips down tot he hip on the other. The seams are all perfectly place to give shape around the waist without having a horizontal line to break the eye. The fabric is gathered and curves over to one side of the hip and then falls to the floor in a column of silk. A long wide panel is swagged over on one side and then extends around to the back. This panel extends out at the side and falls longer at that side of the hem for a killer sweeping flare. It is just spectacular. This is pure Old Hollywood in the best possible way. The dress came with its original spray of pale baby blue, blush pink and ivory silk flowers that you can pin at the front, side or back depending on where you want to emphasize the shape created. I love the way the back dips low to show some bare skin for the perfect finish to this beautiful dress. Excellent condition with a small note below
Fully lined in a copper silky rayon. It closes with a side painted metal zipper hidden under a seam. Light boning through the bodice. Hand work throughout. I see a tiny bit of colour run near the edge on the bodice and another small areas near the hem. There is a very small hole on the folds under the swag from the brooch. You don't see this once the flower is in place and its in the fold if you choose to wear it without the flower. Some minor grubbiness on the edge of the hem. The flower shows some storage marks and the petals have softened. Please the photos after the label shot
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to at least a B cup at front
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of the shoulder to longest point of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4457
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
norman norell
Chic 1960s Norman Norell Deep Brown Skirt & Jacket Suit Set w Belt & Hand Written Tag
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Norman Norell was one of the great American designers. His clothes were wildly expensive in their day and he was credited for the unique ability to translate Paris couture into American ready-to-wear. He started in the film industry and then was hired by Hattie Carnegie. In 1941 he left and and joined Anthony Traina where the Traina-Norell label soon appeared. Upon Traina's retirement in 1960 he launched his own self-named label. He won the very first Coty American Fashion Critics' award ever given in 1943 and then won it again in 1951. In 1956 he became the first designer to earn a place in the Coty Hall of Fame. His signature styles for day ran the gamut from shirtwaists, suits, beautifully tailored coats and clothes that seemed simple at first glance but were logistically complex. Norman himself once said 'To qualify as a designer one should not be afraid to repeat a good design, and certainly must have his own signature'. He achieved that and more. I think every serious vintage collector should have a piece of his work in their archives.
The suit is a marvel of construction and is in wonderful condition. It is simple in appearance but this really hides the masterful cut and tailoring of it. The jacket is tailored with a sleek cut. It has a lovely little wide pointed collar. Four pockets are top set on the front. All four are functional and Iove the little nod to a military piece it gives it. The shoulders have the lightest of padding just to create and hold their shape. The deep brown light weight suiting wool it is made out of has enough weight that it holds the lines perfectly once it is on. It has its original belt to cinch in the waist of the jacket and add shape or you can wear it without for a more boxy feel. Each sleeve is long and straight and ends in a proper three button cuff and each button works and has a proper couture button hole. It really is incredible made. The skirt is fabulous. It is a true flaring A-line and that is what lets is fall so beautifully as you can see in the photos. The waist is banded and besides the amazing shape of it is has been kept simple to accommodate the belting of the jacket over it. There are pockets hidden along each hip. Once on, the suit transforms and you can see how beautiful the lines are and this would be even better on an actual person. His suits changed the way we approach woman's wear and this particular one is a particularly wonderful example of how strong his tailoring and lines were. This one is also a little extra special because it has a handwritten tag inside with the name Deborah what looks like the number 604. A mystery as to whether that was a sample or perhaps the runway model or a client tag but it's always nice to see these extra touches in a vintage piece. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Both pieces have a hand set lining in a deep brown silk. The jacket has a three buttons at the front and three buttons on each cuff. All proper buttonholes. The skirt has a zipper and hook & eye at the waist. Two top set pockets on the breast of the jacket and two on each hip. The slip belt is stamped. Hand finished throughout. The backing on the belt is starting to go and that coating sheds just a touch. The front is fine.
Jacket
Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 12" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 23" from waist to hem with his signature 5" deep turn under at the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4455
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Fall 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Silk Runway Backless Dress w Original Jewel Brooches
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The twin of this dress in a different colour walked the Fall 1990 runway and we have included the reference photos of that so that you can see just how fabulous this one is on the body. This dress also included the incredible and detailed brooches on both the front and back of the dress as it was presented on the runway. This dress is unlabeled but came to me directly from the original couture client from whom I have, and have had, several other Haute Couture pieces. She was fitted by Christian himself for the dress which makes it that much more special. It is a stunning example of his Haite Couture work during this time period.
The dress is made out of an iridescent silk taffeta that has a slight colour change to it depending on how the light hits it. It can go from a deep bronze to a more iridescent blue / purple tone. I love it. The sleeves are long and there is a row of five silk covered buttons at each wrist. The body of the dress is cut to skim over you. It is gathered at one side at the front with the first of two incredible jeweled brooches the dress came with. The brooch is hand made from a gold toned metal with large golden topaz glass crystals mixed with brilliant blue crystals. The neckline angles down and across your shoulder to leave one shoulder bare and exposed. At the back the neckline dips dramatically down into a deep open V that leaves your skin bare and exposed. The second huge jeweled brooch sits at the base of that. A panel of silk flares out dramatically to one side to create a half bow, half bustle feel. The interior of that panel has extra structure so that it stays perfectly in place. The skirt falls below that and depending in your height will sit at about the knee or just above. It is fabulous. Excellent condition with minor notes below
Fully lined in a black silk organza and closes with an elaborate mix of a zipper, snaps and hooks at the back. One panel loops through the other over that. There is fused strip of rubber ribbon along the inner neckline to hold it in place and this has degraded a touch here and there. One stone is missing at the bottom of the front brooch. The brooches are tacked into place at present but are removable and you can see little marks on the fabric under them where the pin has been pushed through in different places. There are a couple teeny pinhead snags on the fabric where the brooches have caught on the silk near the brooches. These are all very minor and mentioned for accuracy. Unlabeled. Sourced from the original couture client and Mr Lacroix has mentioned to me on insta that he remembers fitting her.
Sleeves: 19.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3602
Reference Photos: Fall/Winter 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chloe
Incredible Fall 2001 Chloe by Stella McCartney Faux Fur Runway Look 1 Coat w Bead & Crsytal Detail
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The Stella McCartney era at Chloe has since become extremely collectible. The fall 2001 show was fantastic. This was the opening look for the show and in Vogue's review they specifically mentioned the faux coats that were treated so glamorously with added details saying; "Stella McCartney continued with her exploration of grown-up, couture-inspired silhouettes for Chloé, without forgetting about the youthful, fun-loving basics that are the label's bread and butter. McCartney's forte is her ability to glam up casual street clothes. Her fitted jeans and corduroy trousers with zipper pockets, face-stenciled T-shirts and pearl-encrusted draped tops all had an air of insouciant cool to them; so did the faux furs with shaved bits that accommodated clusters of silver flowers." This was one of the strongest looks from the show and a true piece of fashion history.
The twin of this coat was the opening runway look and was worn by Angela Lindvall. The show had several piece sin this faux fur but this coat is the hardest to find. You will often see the shorter version that was made of this coat or the shrugs or collars but the actual coat is very rare. These had a pretty hefty price tag and not as many were made. They were only sent to certain stores and were a limited production piece. The coat is a 3/4 length and is made from a thick and soft faux fur. The cut is loose and easy and it widens out as it nears the hem for a bit of a swing coat feel. It has hidden fur hooks to close the top part of the front and then swings open under that. There's a hook at the top of the collar so you can wear it folded down like how I photoed it for these photos to give it a more loose and easy feel or you can close that top hook so that it wraps around the neck like how it was worn on the runway. The sleeves are cut extra long and they are gathered along the inside of the wrist. This gives them a curve so that they follow the curve of the arm and it also lets you wear them up a bit so they get that bit of a gathered slouchy feel you see in the runway pics. The inside is lined in a men's wear shooting fabric that she often used. There are two zippered pockets in the interior that have little chains attached to the zipper pulls. On the exterior there is a pocket hidden along each hip. It is meant to feel a little big and slouchy once on and I love that. The best part about is of course that extraordinary detailing done on the shoulder and collar on the one side of the coat. Fine silver metal strips have been applied to the coat to create a series of medallions. Swirling beads and sequins sit over those to create this fantastic design that goes across the top of the arm. under the shoulder at the front and then runs up and into the collar and around to the back. Its just brilliant and an amazing piece of fashion history. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.
Fully lined with two interior pockets as described above. It closes with hidden fur hooks at the front. Pockets on each hip. Tagged a vintage Chloe 40
Sleeves: 28"
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4454
Reference Photos: Fall 2001 Chloe Runway, Look 1. Model Angela Lindvall.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
madame gres
1970s Madame Gres Haute Couture Wide Leg Pant Set w Metallic Gold Part Open Tie Top
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Madame Gres' work has had profound effects on Haute Couture and her influence still resonates to this day. Her attention to detail, master draping techniques and respect for the female form is unparalleled. She was known for designing and creating garments directly on her models and this became a signature of her work. She opened her first atelier, La Maison Alix in 1932. A partnership briefly changed the house's name to Alix Barton and then the label went to simply Alix. In 1942 she married, and the label made its last change to became Madame Gres, which was a partial anagram of Serge, her husband's first name. Her work spans over five full decades with the vast majority of it, with the exception of a short-lived RTW line begun in 1980, dedicated solely to creating Haute Couture. She is one of the greatest couturiers of our time and her pieces are very rare and hard to find. This set is from the early to mid-seventies and it is fabulous.
This is an amazing vintage set. I love the camel coloured wide legged jersey pants with their wide cut legs. The jersey they are made out of is the soft wool that she used extensively during this time period and it has a soft finish to it that looks and feels heavenly once on. The pants are banded at the top with a wide gathered sash of a pale yellow jersey for contrast to the camel colour below. This hooks to the one side and there is built-in boning at the sides to hold its shape around the waist. It is a touch wider on one side then the other to create a pretty curve. The pants fall to the floor and widen out to be 64" around at each hem. The top has a metallic finish to it and the contrast between the two fabrics is fantastic. The silk has actual metal thread woven through it and this gives it a subtle glint from all angles. A design runs through the silk and the metal thread is woven onto that in a floral design The neckline is scooped and it skims over you to the waist. The sleeves are long and simple. It ties into place at the back with ties made of the same fabric. These sit on an angle that starts at the neckline, run across to one side and then go straight down to the hem of the top. This leaves a little bare expanse of skin showing between the ties. I photoed the top un-tucked and tucked as it can be worn either way. Both pieces have a Haute Couture label in them and the top has an additional handwritten numbered tag inside. This is an incredible and rare opportunity to own a beautiful piece of her work and it is that much more versatile with the two pieces since you can mix and match with pieces from your exiting wardrobe. Excellent condition with a small note below.
Both pieces are unlined and have been completely finished by hand. The pants close with hook and eye at the band and a zipper under that. There's a small repair to the jersey inside the inner structure of the band and then one of the fold along one side. Neither is seen once on. The top ties to close at the back.
Top
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: approx 12-13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 12" from shoulder to hem
Pants
Waist: 12" at top of band and narrows to 11.5" flat across from side seam to side seam of true waist
Band: 3.5" high on the boned hook closure side and the other side will widen to approx 9"
Hips: open
Length: 40" from true waist to hem
Inseam: 29"
Rise: 15" from true waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XXS-XS
Item# DD4182
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Documented & Rare Fall 2004 Alexander McQueen Tweed Pant Suit w Elaborately Embellished Jacket
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This is a spectacular and rare suit from the Fall 2004 McQueen show and its near twin walked the runway that season for Look 31. I have only seen the jacket come up for sale but I have never seen both pieces together as the complete suit. The runway pieces were often not produced in significant numbers and were often only found at the flagship stores in very limited quantities. This masterpiece is from the Fall 2004 show entitled 'Pantheon Ad Lecum' or 'Towards the Light'. For this collection McQueen was quoted as saying that he wanted to 'strip away all theatrics and focus purely on design'. The colours in the show focused on a nude palette and tweed was a predominant element in the collection. He also kept the embellishments to the bare minimum throughout the collection and this is one of the few pieces that was highly embellished with his usual dramatic flair.
I love that this suit walks a line between day wear and evening. The tweed says day but as you look at the fabric closer you realize that it has been shot through with a subtle gold thread that elevates the fabric. The cut and line of the set reflect his master level tailoring skills and then the embellishment screams that this is indeed a McQueen piece of the highest caliber. Both pieces are made from a light brown tweed that has the gold shot through it as mentioned above. This gives it a very subtle metallic feel but its a detail that you only really notice when you are close to the suit. The pants are fantastic. They have a smooth flat front with a zipper closure and little scoop pockets on either hip at the waist. They are cut to skim over the hips and then the legs are wide and full. They are fabulously made and lined through the upper half. I love the matching jacket. It has lightly padded shoulders and the arms are long and cut with the precision that you expect from a McQueen piece. The waist is brought in just slightly and it is cut to sit just over the waist of the pants. Onto this is an elaborate embellishment that combines thick 3D braiding detail made from a deep muted gold real metal thread hundreds of burnished gold metal studs in two sizes. These are set in an elaborate design that forms a shape to suggest his signature harness. The applique work wraps over the shoulders, narrows down and inward at the waist and then flares out to wrap around the hips. The same beautiful design is repeated on the back.The zipper is hidden at the front so when it is zipped you have this stunning almost breast plate feel. Every time I have a really good McQueen in the shop I am just blown away by his ability to create the lines he did and the level of craftsmanship that went into his pieces. This one is no exception and it is remarkable. I love it. Excellent condition with a small note below
The pants are lined through to about the knee and close with a hidden set side zipper and a button at the waist. The jacket is fully lined in a muted gold silk and zippers to close at the front. Each sleeve has a hidden set zipper. Light padding in each shoulder. The jacket is tagged a McQueen 38. There is a tiny bit of stress at the same at the top the shoulder to part of the embellishment. It's extremely minor but mentioned for accuracy. Please see the photo after the label shot.
Jacket
Sleeves: 24.5"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from neck to hem
Pant
Waist: 14.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 40.5" from waist to hem with 2" turned under
Inseam: 31.5"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4310
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2004 Alexander McQueen Runway, Look 31. Model Hannelore Knuts.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.