This dress comes to me from my same client whose aunt purchased from both the couture houses and Ady Couture while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies along with the couture houses. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to haute couture standards. He designed many pieces for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces and bought the fabric directly from them. I have some new information that he might have sold actual couture pieces through his salon as well. This dress bears a striking similarity to some of the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces and I have included some of those iconic photographs here and if nothing else to show you how this dress will look on an actual body. It is absolutely unbelievable in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far. 

The level that this dress is made to is incredible. The fabric is a fine black silk taffeta and then parts of the design are edged in a beautiful French Chantilly lace. There are yards and yards of fabric used in the construction of this piece but once on the body it is all perfectly balanced. It sits off the shoulder to leave a bare expanse of skin showing that balances the volume of the dress below. I love the cut of the top. There is a six inch caped ruffle that wraps all the way around your shoulders and is edged with a 3.5" band of lace. Under that are extra extra wide sleeves. The width of the inner sleeves give the illusion of a layered caped detailing but they are actually true sleeves. Each sleeve is edged in that same lace to give the bodice a tiered effect from the side. The bodice is cut to skim over the body and then the waist is seamed to nip in for shape. I added a grosgrain ribbon to define the waist even more and this will be included. The skirt curves out from there and falls to the floor widening out to be very full as it nears the hem. The skirt is made up of three layers. The innermost layer is a full built-in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and then again part way up the skirt. These bands help to hold the volume. There are these little ruffled details that run along the seams where this inner layer is pieced together despite the fact that no one would ever see them. I love that. The second layer over that is made of black silk taffeta and it has two ruffled tiers at the hem that are both edged with black lace. The final top layer sits over both these and it curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist. It is stunning. The dress is completely made by hand and I have included a couple of shots of one of the inner seams for you to see the amazing handwork. Excellent condition with a note below

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and the skirt is constructed as described above. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. Made by hand to couture standards. There are a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn 

Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3882

Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This suit is from the debut collection of Bill Gibb for the Fall 1972. In the book, Bill Gibb: Fashion and Fantasy, they note that the theme of the collection was the natural world and you can see that in this suit. As the book describes what was presented in the runway, they specifically mentioned that "there were also a lizard trim cream wool suit" which is of course this set. The book quotes fashion journalist, Suzy Menkes saying that "this is Bill Gibbs great day... for the first time showing a collection all his own. It marks the beginning of his career as a designer of the jet set." Twiggy said to Gibbs backstage "they were incredible, I loved every one, I want them all... is it possible to have one to wear tonight?". At this moment in Bill Gibbs history he was the star of fashion set. The suit is spectacular and I love that a version in black is held in the permanent collection of the Aberdeen Art Gallery and Museum. The twin of this suit was also photoed for British Vogue that season and this gives you a chance to see how fantastic it is once on. This is an incredibly important suit in terms of British Fashion history.

The suit is fantastic. The jacket has an incredible cut to it. It is cropped to the top of the hip and this adds a pretty shape. The collar is rounded and wide. Onto the collar Gibb added an amazing hand cut lizard detailing on either side which perfectly fits into his nature theme of the show. He also added snakeskin strips over the seams and this detailing of the seams like this went on to become a signature for him. It is also a clever way to highlight the cut of the jacket. I love the way the front of the jacket curves down at the front. Snakeskin straps buckles across the front and then the back has another set of buckles. We also see that same detailing over the seams there as well. The sleeves are phenomenal. They begin just above the waist and at the shoulder they are gathered in and capped. This gathering lets them sit up and off of the shoulder. They are extremely wide through the upper arm and then they narrow down to those fantastic cuffs. The cuffs have that same beautiful rounding curve to them and they are split up the middle to meet two metal buttons at the top of the snakeskin detailing. The skirt is equally as fabulous. It has a small band around the waist and then skims over the hips to flare out to be quite full by the time it reaches the hem. This skirt is made by eight panels that have been sewn together. Each panel is rounded at the bottoms and this creates that beautiful scalloped effect that you see. We took one photo with the skirt laid out flat so you could see the remarkable shape that it has. The skirt is also detailed with snakeskin that runs over the top portion of each seam where the panels are joined. A third hand cut out lizard sits across the front of the skirt to tie it all together. Hand work throughout and it is just a phenomenal piece of fashion history. It also fits in perfectly with the couture cowboy core movement we are seeing. I love that you can wear the pieces together or mix and match with things you already have. Excellent condition with a tiny note below.

Both pieces are fully lined in a white silky rayon. The jacket buckles to close at the front and the skirt zips to close under a hook and eye on the waistband. Hand finishing throughout. I see two tiny pin sized marks on one shoulder and some of the snake skin shows very minor peeling here and there that is natural to aging.

Jacket
Sleeves: 25" and 20" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: approx 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from neck to the longest point of the front hem, 18" to the back

Skirt
Waist: 13-14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4668

Reference Photos: (1) Model in Bill Gibb, Vogue UK, 1972.  /  (2) 1972 Bill Gibb Suit in the Collection of the Aberdeen Art Gallery & Museums.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

When dating this extraordinary Yves Saint Laurent dress, we found a photo of a piece with almost an identical cut bodice from 1972 along with several runway photos that show other pieces with that same cut to the bodice. I have included those here for you and it is interesting to note that the pleating technique that is used around the upper hip of the skirt was also done in a more intricate fashion for the 1974 Couture show. Yves often use ideas from both collections. - Rive Gauche and Couture - to build and develop ideas and it is fascinating to see the progression of his work from garment to garment. This is an incredibly beautiful example of his work from this time period.

This dress combines a floral silk chiffon with a muted red silk on the skirt. This combination is absolutely gorgeous. Is combination of silks give the dress just enough weight and structure to be able to create the impressive lines and volume that you see but while still making it feel soft and romantic. The colours are spectacular. The top is a printed silk chiffon, and it has a stunning floral pattern in red purples and greens that float over the entire bodice and the sleeves. The bodice is cut to skim over you and the waist nips in. It plunges at the front and crosses over itself, and the neckline has been detailed with ruffles that begin at the back of the neck and circle around to follow the V at the front and then run down to the waist. piping in the same fabric detail. The waste and ties have been left off to the side to hang down and create a pretty little detail. The skirt falls to the floor from there and it has yards and yards of fabric in it that creates the fullness and volume that you see. The skirt falls in a gently widening line and is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. I love the volume that this type of fabric creates and how it billows around you as you move but at the same time it is as light as a feather. Around the entire upper hip area, and starting at the waist or a series of tiny cleats that gradually open out to create the volume underneath. This intricate detail is a beautiful addition to the dress. The sleeves are outstanding. Each is a single layer of the silk chiffon and are wide and very full. They are caught up at the wrist with a circle full circle ruffle underneath. This creates a beautiful and dramatic finish to the top. I love everything about this dress. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a red silk and closes at the back with a hidden set painted met zipper. Attached ties at the waist and elastic in each cuff. The silk skirt and the exterior layer is a tool ruffle that helps keep the volume through the skirt. Tagged a vintage YSL 38. I see some light marks around the hem of the skirt.

Sleeves: 24" and 14" around the upper arm
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 16" from neck to waist
Total length: 60" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4665

Reference Photos: Fall 1972 Yves Saint Laurent.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

The book Givenchy Catwalk says of this collection that "Hubert de Givenchy presented a collection made up of soft lines with dresses that suddenly highlighted the shape of the body before the pleated skirts flared out towards the bottom." It is interesting to note that some of the looser more flowing designs from this collection were a part of the November 28 1973 presentation at the Royal Opera at the Palace of Versailles as part of the fashion show that later became to know become known as the "Battle of Versailles". The book notes that "Givenchy took part in the evening event to raise money for the château restoration, presenting his dresses alongside designers by four other Persian Couture houses competing against five American design designers". I have found nothing that suggests that this dress was a part of that show but it definitely has the feel of what went. This dress was shot that year both for Vogue Paris and British Vogue and I love having those reference shots for you to see just how amazing this dress is on the body.

This is an amazing true Haute Couture Givenchy dress that is a very rare and special find. It is entirely cut on the bias and then the silk has been pleated into perfectly matched knife pleats. The cut is tremendously flattering to the body and it feels a little bit sexy with the way the top sits on the bodice. The fabric is a beautiful and very light red crepe silk chiffon that moves and drapes fantastically. The bodice is done with its own panel that wraps around to the back. It is set wide and open at the front and then the pleats wrap on a slight curve to follow the shape of the halter to the back where it is set with a wedge of open space between the two sides. Silk straps come out from the peak of the front and then curve over your shoulders to connect to the back. The skirt flares out from there and it has a ton of movement when you move. It is spectacular. The silk is very fine and light and it is cut on the bias and then pleated in long vertical lines. There are yards of it in the skirt and that and the lightness of the skirt picks up the air when you move so that it moves fantastically around you as you walk. This is a very beautiful example of Givenchy from this time period. It is easy to see why his work is the subject of so many books and retrospective shows at museums worldwide. It also comes with a matching curved shawl in the same fabric. Excellent overall condition with notes below.

The dress is fully lined in a matching hand set red silk. It zips to close at the back and then an inner wider waist stay hooks to close at the inner waist. Light. boning through the inner built-in corset. Hand finished throughout to couture standards. I see some wear and patching on the straps. A small repair at the top of one peak and and some repairs/ small shattering to the inner lining near the arms. A small thinned spot near the zipper and a mark here and there and also near the hem.  Presents wonderfully but these are mentioned for accuracy. Proper couture tag and numbered tape present.

Bust: 15.5-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 14-15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 12" from top of straps to seam under the bust
Total length: 61" from top of straps to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4664

Reference Photos: (1) Photos by Guy Bourdin for Vogue Paris Special Collections Issue, 1973.  /  (2) Susan Moncur in Givenchy by David Bailey for British Vogue 1973.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This dress is a stunning and rare piece of Halston history. Its twin walked the runway for the Spring 1973 show and you can see how spectacular this is on the body. This is classic Halston from his main label couture line. It is incredibly chic and sexy and one of two important Halston pieces I have for you today. This is an incredible example of his work from this time period. 

This is an amazing couture Halston dress that is a very rare and special find. It is entirely cut on the bias and utilizes his signature minimal seaming. Halston defined how woman dressed in the 1970s and these jersey dresses that he did were tremendously flattering to the body. It is also insanely sexy with the side cut outs that wrap all the way around the back leaving your back completely bare except for that one strap that goes across and hooks to close. It also eaves almost your entire stomach and your sides completely bare. The fabric is a beautiful black silk jersey that is heavy enough to be opaque and the dress is backed in a second attached layer of the same silk jersey. The use of this fabric allows the dress to move and drape fantastically. The neckline is high and scooped around the neck and it hooks to close at the back. Then this extends down into the front panel that has straps that come out from the sides to hook at the back. From there it creates a upward curve that meets the downward curve of the top of the skirt in the middle centre of your front bodice. I love the way that the panels curve and create these cut outs on either side of your middle. At the back the top of the skirt curves down and it can sit quite low depending on the shape of your body. It also leaves the top of your hip exposed at the sides and it is so sexy. The skirt flares out to the floor from there in a sleek column of silk jersey that flares outward as it nears the hem. It is spectacular. The jersey is cut on the bias and there are yards of it in the skirt. The second layer of silk jersey is attached all the way around the hem and having the second layer helps to soften out any bumps underneath the top layer and helps to make it very flattering to wear. This is a very rare example of Halston at the top of his game. It really showcases how he use the absolute minimal amount of seaming to create these absolutely stunning pieces. It is easy to see why his work is the subject of so many books and retrospective shows at museums worldwide. Excellent condition with a tiny note below.

The entire dress is made from two layers of the silk jersey. The dress hooks to close behind the neck and then again at the strap that wraps around the back. Hand finished. At some point the ham appears to have been let down but it's well finished along the edge so I've left it as isThere is darkening along the original edge and I see a small area on the front that looks a tiny bit darker than the rest of the dress, but it wouldn't photo well and I'm being pretty picky. If you find that the neck seems to sit high you could add a little extension to the back where it hooks to close if you needed a little more length and have it sit a little lower.

Neck:  14-15" around from hook to hook
Bust: The front halter should accommodate a variety of cup sizes. From end to end of where it hooks to close around the back it is 32 to 36 inches total in length
Opening of the skirt: 13-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Total length: approx 67" from neck to hem 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4663

Reference Photo: Spring 1973 Halston Runway.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.

This fantastic cape is from the Fall 1976 collection and it is the second one from this collection I have had in the shop this week. Several versions of it were produced that season including this and the longer and slightly more elaborate deep purple one I listed earlier this week. We have included photos from the runway pieces here and we also found an ad campaign shot with its twin and have included that for you to see. I personally have several versions of his capes myself and have worn them countless times. It is literally the perfect thing to pop over a dress at night time. It is a very versatile and so easy to wear piece.

The cape is in a very beautiful pale taupe combined with a black flat braided edging. The fabric is a high end wool that has a little bit of weight just due to the sheer amount of it in the cape but is still comfortable and easy-to-wear. This is one of those effortless pieces that is easy to make a part of your wardrobe. You just slip it over your shoulders and it drapes in place. A slightly oversized hood extends out from the neck and this added addition of the hood adds the perfect amount of detail and drama. A flat blue braided rope finished all the edges and I love the elaborate braided knots that closes it in place at the neck. A long fringed tassel sits on either side of that closure for added drama. I love the bit of movement these create when you move. There is a ton of fabric in the body of the cape so that when you move you get wonderful movement as it floats and billows around you. The cut is impeccable and it is a great piece of YSL's fashion history. Excellent condition

Unlined and drapes over the shoulder to wear with a knot closure at the neck as seen. The occasional graze to the surface. The easy open cut should allow fit just about any size

Length: 50" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: OSFA

Item# DD4658

Reference Photos: Fall 1976 Yves Saint Laurent.

All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.