Stunning Fall 2005 Chanel Metallic Silk Mohair Fur Trimmed Tweed Jacket & Pleated Skirt Suit
Vogue's review of this collection was done by Hamish Bowles who said in part; "With their ironed hair, pale lips, and exaggerated doe-eye makeup, the leggy girls on Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel runway were channeling Penelope Tree, the iconic and kooky sixties model. With a major Chanel retrospective opening in May at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, Lagerfeld also delved into Coco Chanel's history—specifically a 1920's liaison with the Duke of Westminster that saw her borrowing knits and tweedy pieces from his chic country wardrobe. Lagerfeld feminized his layered cardigan and plus fours with scarves twinkling with diamond camellias and topped them with adorable newsboy caps, knit cloches, or floppy berets." I love the nod to the tweed that the pieces had and the kicky skirts like this one are perfect to pair with a great boot.
The suit is constructed from an absolutely stunning metallic tweed version of the Chanel signature fabric. The fabric combines a silk thread with mohair and a gold metal thread that he has worked through the entire suit. This gives it an exceptional but subtle sheen and a very luxurious feel. It is absolutely beautiful. To heighten that sense of luxury Karl added a rabbit fur trim to the jacket. The fur has been set to run down the front edges, curve around the back and then also circle the hem. It also details each cuff and the pockets. The jacket is cut in that classic Chanel box shape. The sleeves are long and I love the pockets that sit on each side. It hooks to close down the front with hidden set hook & eye so there is nothing to break the line. The skirt is cut with a slight flare as it nears the hem. It is set all the way around with series of wide flat pleats, giving that nod to the schoolgirl and the sixties the show was based on. The upper part of the skirt is more fitted around the hips and then it opens up to create the beautiful lines that you see. The entire suit is lined in the highest quality camellia flower embossed black silk. This is classic Chanel right down to the chain stitched by hand into the hem of the jacket. It is exceptional. Excellent condition.
Both pieces are fully lined in a black silk embossed with the Chanel camellia flower print. The interior hem of the jacket is finished with one of their signature metal chains. The skirt closes with a hidden set zipper. The jacket hooks to close down the front. Pockets on the jacket and the skirt. The colour and texture are even better in person. Both pieces are tagged a Chanel 40. There is the slightest bit of pilling to the silk on the interior of the jacket from rubbing against the skirt when it was stored.
And just a note on their fabrics.... The Chanel boucle and tweeds are created with their proprietary method of weaving that they themselves describe as "by weaving the warp and weft, using a variety of different kinds of threads which creates a unique and somewhat irregular appearance. The warp – vertically strung – is the background of the fabric, the base that will support the assembly of materials. There can be up to 12 different threads used for a single warp. The weft – woven horizontally – gives the fabric its unique character and can have an unlimited number of threads. Tight, perforated, textured, thick, with a relief, plaited, random, twill… the potential number of effects is endless". This technique gives you that classic Chanel look.
Bust: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from neck to hem
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs and fur trimmed pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. Fur coats are final sale.
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