Late 1970s Possible Givenchy Black Silk Taffeta Haute Couture Dress w Sequin & Rhinestone Detailing
This is an incredible Haute Couture dress that came to me unlabeled. After some research and feedback from my client I think this may be a Givenchy or a Givenchy copy. I have a Givenchy in my own archives from his demi-couture boutique label from this same time period and the construction of the sleeves and the overall lines of the dress are remarkably similar other then the fact that this dress was entirely made by hand. Given the client's overall wardrobe and love of couture combined with the level of workmanship in the dress it is not a stretch. It could also be another of her Ady Couture piece as well. Ady Couture was based out of Lausanne Switzerland. She would buy couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and with permission make copies of the piece presented in the Haute Couture collections. When she was younger, and lived in Amsterdam, Ady would attend the private viewing and purchase directly from the couture houses. My client believes that her arrangement with the ateliers was a way to work around customs that prompted Ady to negotiate this arrangement with the ateliers. In my hunt for more information I have been able to verify that they made this permissible copies of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but this are the four houses I am confident on. It is priced as an Ady piece and the context that it would have with that label. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is incredible.
The dress is made from a black silk taffeta and this fabric choice allows it to hold the almost sculptural lines that you see. It is absolutely beautiful and a testament to the level of design that you only see in couture pieces. At the front the neckline dips into a V and the dress is vertically seamed to follow and curve over the body. The sleeves are a work of art. Each is made on a curve to follow the shape of the arm They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume there. They then taper down to the cuffs where they zip to close around the wrist. At the back the dress is cut into a second V that is lower then the one at the front so that you get a bare expanse of skin. The waist is set to curve in at the front for a suggestion of shape but at the back is is cut so that the low waist and the top of the skirt lifts off and away from the body for more of a sense of volume. The skirt at the front is cut on a bell and curves gracefully away from the hips. At the back it is fuller and cut to fall longer then the front. Underneath is an interior skirt that is edged in a ruffle of black silk netting so that when you move you see just a peek of that from under the top skirt. At the top of the inner underskirt are layers of silk that help to hold the shape at the hips. Otherwise all of the volume is created but the cut and the fabric alone. The perfect final detail is the series of dots that you see scattered over the sleeves and bodice of the dress. These run past the waist and circle the upper portion of the skirt. They are various sizes and some are made from circles of tiny silver sequins while others are a iridescent pale blue sequin. The blue ones catch the light and range from silver to an ice blue. It's incredible. There are also some that are made from the finest little crystal beads. Inside the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every seam hand finished. I have taken some detail shots for you to see the fine workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and just beautifully made. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
The bodice is unlined and the skirt is fully lined with a built in underskirt in a black silk taffeta. Built in paniers around the hip area that I have photoed for you. It closes with a back fine zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over it. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. There may be the occasional sequin or crystal missing on the dots but no bare spots. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, 60" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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