christian lacroix

Incredible Fall 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Silk Runway Backless Dress w Jewel Detailing

I recently saw a near twin of this dress at auction and it sold for about this price after fees and exchange. That one did not include the two jewel brooches that this one has. It is incredible to have a complete example of this one that is more a true twin to the runway. Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and was an instant worldwide sensation with the press declaring him to be the 'King of Couture'. His collections were exotic and he mixed patterns and line in a way that had never been done before. His inspiration often came from the past and I doubt there was ever a more high glamour couturier.

This dress is very special and a stunning example of his work during this time period. It has all the signature Lacroix drama that you could ask for. It is from the original couture client who was fitted by Christian himself which makes it that much more special. My client ordered this one in a slightly different shade of silk then that dress that walked the runway and the colour of the stones in the jeweled brooches were made to match this colour. I lovee this colour more then the one on the runway as it has a touch more depth to it and is more flattering in a wider range of skin tones.

The dress is made out of an iridescent silk taffeta that has a slight colour change to it depending on how the light hits it. It can go from felling like a deep bronze colour to a more iridescent blue / purple tone. I love it. The  sleeves are long and there is a row of five silk covered buttons at each wrist. The body of the dress is cut to skim over you. It is gathered at one side at the front and here we see the first incredible brooch. The brooch is hand made from a gold toned metal with large golden topaz glass crystals mixed with brilliant blue glass stones. The neckline is cut to slant down on that same side with a fold of fabric set around you. It is cut wide across the shoulders and is meant to sit slightly off one shoulder to leave that bare expanse of skin showing. At the back the neckline dips and angles down into a deep offset V that leaves your back bare and exposed. Another huge jeweled piece sits at the base of that V. Below that a stiffened panel of silk flares out dramatically to one side to give it a half bow, half bustle feel. The skirt is cut straight and depending in your height will sit at about the knee or just above. Excellent condition with a couple of small notes below

Fully lined in a black silk organza and closes with an elaborate mix of a zipper, snaps and hooks at the back. One flaring panel loops through the other. There is fused rubber ribbon along the inner neckline to hold it in place and this has changed colour here and there. One stone is missing at the bottom of the front brooch. The brooches are removable and you can see little marks on the fabric under them where the pin has been pushed through in different places. There are a couple teeny pinhead marks on the fabric where the brooches have caught on the silk near the brooches. These are all very minor and mentioned for accuracy. Unlabeled. Sourced from the original couture client and Mr Lacroix has mentioned to me on insta that he remembers fitting her.

Sleeves: 19.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from top of shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3602

Reference Photos: Fall/Winter 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

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