Incredible 1990s Isaac Mizrahi Custom Sculpted Silk Dress w Low Set Oversized Back Bow
Isaac Mizrahi presented his first collection at a trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman's in 1987. By 1992 Chanel had bought a stake in the company and Isaac's name was everywhere. He was doing custom work for clients and Hollywood on top of his mainline. In 1995 Isaac was the subject of the movie 'Unzipped' based on his Fall 1994 collection. He is known as much for his personality as he was for his clothing. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) recognized him with the Perry Ellis Award (now called the Swarovski Emerging Talent Award) in 1988 and the women's wear designer of the year award in 1989. He loved to experiment and would often change his aesthetics from season to season. This is an amazing example of the custom piece that he was doing and comes directly from the client that worked with him and purchased it from him.
My client had this dress custom made for herself and worked one on one with Issac on its design. It is a gorgeous dress and it really feels like its time period with its nod to Old Hollywood combined with a twist of modernity through the quirky placement of the bow at the back. It is made to demi-couture standards. The dress is very long and the lines have been kept simple. The bodice is molded and sculpted into a plunging V at the front and again at the back. The fabric on the bodice extends into the straps that curve up and over each shoulder. The simplicity of how it is made is what gives it is sculpted feel. The wonderful curving shape from there has all been created through long vertical seams. This means that there is no horizontal line at the waist to break the beautiful curves the dress creates. Even off of the body and on the hanger this one has curves. That is how well made and scalloped it is. The fabric that Isaac chose for the dress is a heavier silk matte satin that holds the shape he meant it to have but without being too heavy on the body. The light purple colour is beautiful. The photos have come close to capturing the colour but in person is a touch lighter and brighter and even better. It skims over the bust and waist and over the hips. Then at about the knee the lower skirt starts to begin to flare out in an angled and sculpted line. The lower skirting is set into the body of the dress on an angled seam and this clever seam placement helps to elongate the line of the dress to make you look supermodel tall. At the back of the skirt where it meets the rest of the dress there is an oversized bow that is also set on an angle that follows the seam there. I love how it makes a tremendous impact from the back as you walk away. Even from the front view you see that bow peaking out slightly on either side making you wonder what is there. The skirt is cut slightly longer at the back to create that beautiful shape that you see. All of the shaping has been creating by seaming and fabric placement and it really shows just how great Isaac could cut a dress. It is even better in person and once on an actual body it really comes to life as the skirt moves around you. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a matching purple silk and closes with a hidden set back zipper. The slightest bit of scuffing to the very back hem. Please see the last photo after the label shot.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam with an approx A-B cup
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59.5" from top of shoulder to front hem, 62" to the back
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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