Isaac Mizrahi presented his first collection with a trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman's in 1987. By 1992 Chanel had bought a stake in the company and Isaac's name was everywhere. He was doing custom work for clients and Hollywood on top of his mainline. In 1995 Isaac was the subject of the movie 'Unzipped' based on his Fall 1994 collection. He is known as much for his personality as he was for his clothing. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) recognized him with the Perry Ellis Award (now called the Swarovski Emerging Talent Award) in 1988 and the women's wear designer of the year award in 1989. This is a fantastic example of how he could do very luxe evening wear and I love it.

My client worked one on one with Issac when she had this dress made for herself. It is stunningly beautiful. The dress is made to demi-couture standards and to the best of my clients knowledge it is the only one ever made. The bodice is amazing. It is strapless and then the cups are heavily covered with black beads mixed with prong set black glass crystal rhinestones. They are so densely set together that it creates this fantastic 3 dimensional feel. I love that the bead work continues to the sides and then all the way to meet at the back zipper. The top of the bodice is set on a curve and the cups are shaped. The dress falls from directly under the bust and is cut to skim past the waist and hips. The dress is covered in a fine black lace set that over a inner nude silk lining. From a distance this gives the effect that you are covered in just a layer of lace. Once past the hips the skirt sweeps outwards and flares with a ton of volume. Underneath the lower skirt there are layers of attached tulle to help keep the volume. The extra fabric lets it move around you with your slightest move. It is even better in person. Just gorgeous. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a two layers of a nude silk. The skirt has additional tulle built in around the hem to help hold the shape. The bodice has a built in inner corset that closes with its own set of hook and eye and the dress closes over that with a back zipper. Some small marks to the inside of the hems otherwise pristine. 

Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam with an approx A-B cup
Inner waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of bodice to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3564

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Isaac Mizrahi presented his first collection at a trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman's in 1987. By 1992 Chanel had bought a stake in the company and Isaac's name was everywhere. He was doing custom work for clients and Hollywood on top of his mainline. In 1995 Isaac was the subject of the movie 'Unzipped' based on his Fall 1994 collection. He is known as much for his personality as he was for his clothing. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) recognized him with the Perry Ellis Award (now called the Swarovski Emerging Talent Award) in 1988 and the women's wear designer of the year award in 1989. He loved to experiment and would often change his aesthetics from season to season. This is an amazing example of the custom piece that he was doing and comes directly from the client that worked with him and purchased it from him. 

My client had this dress custom made for herself and worked one on one with Issac on its design. It is a gorgeous dress and it really feels like its time period with its nod to Old Hollywood combined with a twist of modernity through the quirky placement of the bow at the back. It is made to demi-couture standards. The dress is very long and the lines have been kept simple. The bodice is molded and sculpted into a plunging V at the front and again at the back. The fabric on the bodice extends into the straps that curve up and over each shoulder. The simplicity of how it is made is what gives it is sculpted feel. The wonderful curving shape from there has all been created through long vertical seams. This means that there is no horizontal line at the waist to break the beautiful curves the dress creates. Even off of the body and on the hanger this one has curves. That is how well made and scalloped it is. The fabric that Isaac chose for the dress is a heavier silk matte satin that holds the shape he meant it to have but without being too heavy on the body. The light purple colour is beautiful. The photos have come close to capturing the colour but in person is a touch lighter and brighter and even better. It skims over the bust and waist and over the hips. Then at about the knee the lower skirt starts to begin to flare out in an angled and sculpted line. The lower skirting is set into the body of the dress on an angled seam and this clever seam placement helps to elongate the line of the dress to make you look supermodel tall. At the back of the skirt where it meets the rest of the dress there is an oversized bow that is also set on an angle that follows the seam there. I love how it makes a tremendous impact from the back as you walk away. Even from the front view you see that bow peaking out slightly on either side making you wonder what is there. The skirt is cut slightly longer at the back to create that beautiful shape that you see. All of the shaping has been creating by seaming and fabric placement and it really shows just how great Isaac could cut a dress. It is even better in person and once on an actual body it really comes to life as the skirt moves around you. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a matching purple silk and closes with a hidden set back zipper. The slightest bit of scuffing to the very back hem. Please see the last photo after the label shot. 

Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam with an approx A-B cup
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59.5" from top of shoulder to front hem, 62" to the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3595

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and quickly became one of the top couture ateliers in the world. In 1964, Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant, as head of the brand. Pipart, who had previously worked for Balmain, Fath, and Patou brought a wide range of experience in all aspects of fashion to the brand. Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' He designed the Couture end of the label until 1998 making this a gown from one of his final seasons. This is an incredible and very beautiful piece of Haute Couture. Hey finding a gown at this level seems almost miraculous. It is truly one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen.

The twin of this dress walk the runway for the Haute Couture show that season and it was also photoed for L'Officiel that season and we also found a stunning editorial photo that caught it in the most spectacular shot. I love having all of this documentation because it shows you how phenomenal this dress is once on the body. This is truly a dress that you know has to be a true Haute Couture piece the moment you set your eyes on it. I think it is a work of art. The dress is strapless with an optional very tiny strap that comes out from the center of the bodice and wraps and ties around the neck. It will stay on with or without that small strap so it's your choice to wear it or not. The bodice is fitted to the body to hold the dress in place and the inner structure is outstanding. It is boned and cupped but all of that work is completely hidden underneath the silk lining. On the exterior the entire bodice is covered in glossy black beads that are spaced tightly together. The size of the beads vary as they run from the waist up to the top of the bodice. They are smaller around the waist and spaced further apart and then by the top of the bodice are so tightly spaced that they are almost stacked on top of each other. This creates a dense application of bead work that completely covers the black silk velvet base. In spots around the bodice are these large square-ish black pailettes for blocks of gloss to catch the light even more. Then interspersed among all of that are black iridescent feathers and long metallic strands. These are set to stand straight out from the bodice to create a cloud around you. The feathers add this fantastical sense of couture and fantasy. They also create incredible movement as each one moves independently from the other with the slightest bit of a breeze. The bodice is molded and shaped around you and then nips in the waist. The skirt under that is is a statement in its own right. It is an explosion of silk that poofs out all the way around you. The volume is so much that it almost creates a shelf as it come off of the hips. The silk curves up and under the hem to create a bubbled effect. It is shorter at the front so when you walk and sit you can see some leg. This helps to balance out the volume that surrounds you and add a flash of bare skin. It is longer at the back and depending on your height will trail out behind you just a touch. All of the volume is created by an inner structure that is hidden inside the skirt. You can feel stiffened netting and tulle that is all set inside the skirt so that the shape is held perfectly. I used no extra crinolines or anything else under the skirt to add volume when I shot these photos. The volume is all built in and the result of the masterful construction of this gown. The bead work is glass and between that and the sheer volume if the skirt the dress does have weight to it. When you hold this dress it is very heavy and you can feel that it is a Haute Couture piece. Once on the weight of it distributes and balances out wonderfully and the inner construction holds it all perfectly in place. This is truly an extraordinary piece of modern couture and is exceptionally beautiful. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. No matter how good you think it looks in the photos, it is better in person. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in silk with light burning through the bodice an additional added structure inside. The skirt loops under itself so the lining is the same fabric as the exterior. The skirt is filled with what feels like stiffened netting and tulle. This is placed throughout the entire skirt to give it the volume you see. There is an inner zipper to close the bodice and the waist stay to help the dress stay in place. Two tiny straps extend out from the center of the bodice and tie in place behind the neck. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The dress is finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. The proper Haute Couture label is present.

Waist: the inner waist stay has three hooks to accommodate a 23" 24" and 25" around waist size. If you left that unhooked or extended it the waist will accommodate up to a 26" sized waist.
Hips: open
Bodice: 10" from highest point of the bodice to the waist
Skirt: approx 17" from waist to shortest part of the front hem, 52" to the longest point of the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4240

Reference Photos: (1-3) Fall 1996 Nina Ricci Haute Couture Runway.  /  (4) Fall 1996 Nina Ricci Haute Couture. Photo by Bruno Bisang.  /  (5) Inna Zobova in Nina Ricci Haute Couture for L'officiel de la Mode n808, September 1996. Photo by Michel Nafziger.  /  (6-9) Jurnee Smollett, in this dress, at the Vanity Fair After Oscars Party, 2023.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is an interesting dress because Yves used the same pink feather styling that he did in this collection for a longer but very similar Haute Couture version that season. On the runway this dress was styled with a pink feather collar and then produced without. From a practical stand point it does make it far easier to get multiple wears out of it. It otherwise is identical to the runway version in design. Yves was a designer who mixed and matched ideas from couture to ready-to-wear with ease. More so than other designers I find. Sometimes the crossover details like this one has are just fascinating to see because of that. It is also a great way to get the design and look of a couture piece at a the price of ready-to-wear. The dress is absolutely gorgeous and I'm happy to have a video reference as well as photo reference so that you can see just how beautiful this is on an actual body.

The dress dips into a V at the front and skims over the bodice to meet the slightly high set curved seam at the waist. A wide black silk satin ribbon wraps around the waist following the curved seam. Where it meets in the center there is a large bow with five loops and a knot in the center. Under the skirt falls in three tiered layers of a black textured silk chiffon what a fourth layer acting as a lining under all of those. The top layer has extra fabric in the center and dips down for a pretty line that helps give the illusion of length. It also add some more chiffon that can float and move around you when you move. The layering of the silk makes it opaque enough to wear but still allows for the transparency and the lightness of the fabric to be apparent. The sleeves are beautiful. Each one poufs above an elastic cuff. Under the elastic there is a full circle ruffled cuff with two more layers of the silk for the prettiest feminine finish. In theory you could have a tailor or seamstress add a button in collar made of pink feathers if you really wanted to emulate the look of the runway piece. Either way the dress is absolutely gorgeous. Excellent condition with one small note below

Fully line in a black silk through the bodice. The skirt has an inner lining of silk chiffon. It closes with a side set zipper that goes up and into the underside of the arm. And waist stay hooks to close. Elastic in each cuff. Tag and YSL 38. It looks like the bodice at the V was taken in a bit. Please see the photo after the label shot.

Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: no true shoulder seam
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14" from top of bodice to inner waist stay
Skirt: 25" from inner waist stay to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4167

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 1993 Yves Saint Laurent Reference Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This beautiful Yves Saint Laurent top is a true piece of Haute Couture amd comes directly from the original owner. It is a remarkable example of his work during this time period. I am hoping to find it exact date and then can also find the sketch of it which I will share with its new owner.

The workmanship on this top is absolutely exquisite. The top is entirely hand made and it is a work of art. It is made from a fine black silk velvet that is layered over a black silk chiffon inner base. The level of workmanship is extraordinary. The velvet is cut and embroidered to form an intricate floral and leaf pattern. Where it is open between the flowers and leafs you get that bit of transparent black with the silk chiffon. So it gives the illusion that you can see the bare body underneath while still completely covering you. It is an effect that is very sexy once on an actual body. Seeing it on the dress form just gives you a hint of it. The workmanship is extensive and the time it would have taken to create this piece is extraordinary since it would have all been pieced together by hand. The cut is kept simple so that the pattern takes center stage. The neck is scooped and the shoulders have light padding. I took a photo of one so you can see how even the shoulder pads are made by hand. The waist is brought in a touch but it really is meant to just skim over the body.  It is an absolute work of art and a stunning example of Haute Couture during this time period. Excellent condition

Backed in a black silk chiffon and closes down the back with a hand set zipper and then it snaps over that. The snaps are set to follow the pattern so that there is no closure shows at all. Entirely made by hand. Hand made light padding in each shoulder. Haute couture tag and numbered tape present.

Shoulders: 15.5"
Sleeves: 22
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# S979

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This dress is from the Fall 1990 collection and came to me directly from the original couture client. In the book Yves Saint Laurent: Catwalk they said this of this collection; 'Yves Saint Laurent allowed himself to be truly audacious for this presentation of 137 designs. The Baroque style was evident in outfits were the a fairy tales.' Elle magazine summarized Saint Laurent's work as 'insouciance elevated to the rank of fine art.' .... and of the colours that he chose for the collection the New York Times noted that 'He works with a painter's eye, and the results are always satisfying, never soporific.' They also said that 'Lace is a cornerstone of evening dressing. Sometimes it is thick velvety guipure lace, sometimes spidery Chantilly. It never looks matronly.' This was one of the final dresses of the show and a beautiful example of all of those comments by the press. I am also very happy to have found the runway photo. With 137 looks shown finding this exact one from the handful of shots that are out there of the collection is almost miraculous. In addition to tall of that I have included a snap of the original sketch and fabric swatches from the boxed book set "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002". The dress has so much structure and form to it but once on the body it sits just perfectly and transforms into something magical.  It is an exceptional and well documented example of Laurent's Haute Couture work that he was doing during this time period.

A silk taffeta in a jeweled toned fuchsia sweeps across the top of the bodice and then extends down to form each sleeve. The fabric is gathered and ruched down the length of each arm. The shoulders are left bare to balance out the volume underneath and have that expanse of skin for a touch of sensuality. Under the fucshia is a wide band of a  slightly metallic copper silk that goes from the top of the bust the the slightly dropped waist. The silk has been gathered along each side to create soft pleats that wrap around you. The skirt comes out from under that in a series of soft gathers that open up to allow it to be quite wide by the time it reaches the hem. The underskirt is made from a pale purple silk and that is covered in a top layer of French black lace. The lace is hand made and has a stunning floral design set within medallions. These are repeated throughout the lace to create the beautiful pattern that you see. I love that the bottom edge of the lace follows the curving shape of the design that is in the lace. To finish Yves wrapped a wide green silk ribbon around the waist. This unusual colour choice is spectacular when you see it all together and on the body. This is a spectacular example of his work and a piece you would only ever normally see in a museum. Excellent condition 

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk. There is a built in silk covered elastic that is attached and wired right between the breast for a slight bit of support and then that wraps around you and hooks to close. It closes with a side set zipper and has an inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is a series of snaps above the zipper that run under the arm seam. Each sleeve zips to close at the wrist. The exterior layer of the skirt closes with its own a hand set side zipper. The silk ribbon belt is tacked into place on either side of the waist. On the interior of the skirt at the inner waist the fabric has been folded down and it looks like it would be possible to lengthen the skirt from there by just about 4". It looks to have been worn very little if at all.

Sleeves: 20" from where they start off the shoulder 
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of bodice to slightly dropped seam at the waist
Skirt: 38" from the slightly dropped seam at the waist to the hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3598

Reference Photos: (1) Fall 1990 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Runway Collection.  /  (2-3) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002"

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Guy Laroche began working for Jean Desses in 1949 and eventually launches his own Haute Couture label in 1957 as a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Parisienne.  He became known for his color sense and the young, sexy look of his clothes. In 1985 he won the Haute Couture Golden Thimble award and two years later he was awarded the insignia of Chevalier de L’Ordre de la Legion d’Honneur. His second Golden Thimble was given posthumously after his death in 1989. Michel Klein took over the couture division where he remained until 1996. This dress is from Klein's tenure as the Haute Couture director and label and it is a beautiful example of the work he was doing during his tenure there. Laroche once was quoted as saying “It is my intention to try and adapt haute couture to modern requirements: to make dresses that are simple and chic.” and I feel that this dress tries to live up to that thought while still maintaining the feel of couture during this mid-nineties.

This is the type of piece that is so bold and edgy that you will only ever find it in a Haute Couture piece. I feel like whoever ordered this one had it tweaked slightly from the runway presentation and made it better. The bodice is scooped across on a more graceful line (I don't love how it fits Kirsty Hume who is the model in the photo) and the back skirt feels longer. They also eliminated the bow at the front, opting instead for a single long panel falling at the back that matches the colour and fabric of the skirt. These small details add up to a big difference in how it presents. I also feel that the fit overall is far better then how it appears on the runway. It makes me wonder if there was a last minute substitution of the model for this piece, because in person the dress that I have here is a far better cut and fit overall then how it looks like in the runway shot. The dress is a mini dress that has an attached long panel on the skirt that wraps part way around you to leave the full front open under the mini skirt. The bodice is scooped wide and low at the front and made from a pale taupe silk. It extends down past the waist so a very short mini skirt that has a slight flare to it as it reaches the hem. The long skirt wraps around and is attached at the side of the waist. It is a soft olive toned green and done on that same rich heavy silk that has a slight satin finish. It falls to the floor in a long smooth drape of fabric. A wide silk cummerbund wraps around the waist to give shape. This narrows down at one end and hooks into place under a long swooping gold brooch which I believe is gold plated. The cummerbund has a long panel attached at the back and I have left it hanging as an extra panel. You could probably be clever and wrap /tie it to create a bow effect if you wished to emulate the runway photo more. The darkness of the sash around the waist is then picked up by the spectacular sleeves. Each is made out of a deep blue-black silk chiffon and are cut extra long. They are also cut wide and full to fall at an angle at the end of each sleeve. This bit of softness and transparency the sleeves have contrast sharply to the rich silk the rest of the dress is made from. It is a very unusual dress and shows the experimental side of couture. This is one of those dresses that when the right person wears it, it is going to blow people away. Excellent condition with a minor note below.

Fully lined in hand set silk that matches the colour of the exterior silk that is being lined. The sleeves are unlined. The dress closes with a hand set hidden back zipper and then there is another zipper that closes the inner mini skirt. The sash at the waist wraps and hooks into place. The brooch is detachable and shows sight patina on the gold. Proper couture label present. The dress is entirely made by hand to Haute Couture standards. The inner silk of the long skirt is scuffed near the hem and I see slight grubbiness along the hem on parts. Please see the shot after the label photo.

Sleeves: 34" to the longest point
Inset shoulders: 12"
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Mini dress length: 31" from top of shoulder to hem
Full Length: 60" from shoulder to longest point of the hem
Waist sash: 26.5" in length to where the hooks presently sit with an extension past that that wraps and hooks into place

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4012

Reference Photo: Fall 1994 Guy Laroche Haute Couture Runway Collection on Kirsty Hume.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.