Fall 1994 Nina Ricci Haute Couture Runway Palest Pink Lace & Silk Dress w Metallic Silver Detailing
The Nina Ricci brand was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and quickly became one of the top couture ateliers in the world. In 1964, Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant as head of the brand. Over the following three decades, Pipart's couture vision 'celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.' This dress is from the Fall 1994 collection and I have included the runway reference photo here. In an interview with WWD in 1995, Pipart was asked about the state of couture upon his arrival to Nina Ricci and I love his reply; 'When I arrived everyone was predicting the death of couture, so I was keen to get in for what were meant to be the final few years. And despite what people like Pierre Bergé and many others predicted, couture has lasted a lot longer than anyone ever thought.' Pipart's designs for the Couture collections often combined high fantasy elements and this dress with its ultra long back is an amazing example of his work during this time period.
The twin of this dress walked the runway of the Fall 1994 collection. It is absolutely beautiful and every detail has been done by hand. The dress has a sculpted feel to it that is softened by the pale pink silk colour. It gets a second dose of romance with the lace finish that covers the inner pink silk. The pale pink lace is hand made. There is a floral design that has been worked through the lace and the each cluster of flowers are outlined with a fine silver metallic cording. On the inside of each flower there is a second detailing that uses a metallic pink silk cording. The hours to do this would have been staggering. Every stitch is done by hand and the work is meticulous. The cut of the dress gives is a regal feel. The neckline is scooped and the bodice cut to skim over you with just a suggestion of the waist above the seam that sits at the top of the hips. Under that the skirt is structured into two curving panels at the front. These cross over each other and the edges are curved so that when you walk you see a glimpse of leg. Two big soft pleats sit just below either hip and these add volume and lift. At the back the skirt curves around you and you see a repeat of the two pleats for volume. The centre of the skirt at the back has been split and a pale pink silk inset added. This panel of silk is pleated so that it expands and opens into an extensive train. A decorative row of hand made silk buttons run up each sleeve and then a series of them run down the back. This would be an amazing choice for a bride who does not want a traditional wedding dress or as part of a wedding event. Presents as excellent condition with notes to review below about the interior and panel hem.
The dress is fully hand lined in hand set pink silk and closes with a back hand set zipper behind the buttons. There is a hooked inner waist stay. Hand set snaps close the train over the inner zipper. Each cuff zips to close behind the decorative buttons. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. The proper Haute Couture label is present. The pleats have softened and the dress shows grubbiness and marks under and along the back hem and train. There is discolouration under the arms of the inner lining and one teeny spot where this shows through along the edge of the seam. Please see the photos after the label shot. My client had the side seams let out slightly by Madame Paulette's in NYC.
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 19.5" from top of bodice to dropped waist
Skirt: approx 26" from waist to shortest part where the front curves meet. It curves to 42" at the sides and drops to 49" at the longest part of the lace covered skirt at the back. The silk pleated train extends to 61" from the dropped waist
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference Photo: F/W 1994 Nina Ricci Haute Couture
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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