Fall 1987 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Gold Thread Lace Dress w Longer Back Skirt

This is an exceptional piece of vintage Chanel and a rare find. This is a very early piece of Karl's work for Chanel. His first collection was in 1983 and  it is amazing to have a verified piece from just a few short years into his long career there. A version of the dress made of the same fabric walked the runway that season and we were able to find that reference photo. The hand written tag on the dress is also marked 1986 and there is a special order tag from Bergdorf's with the exact date and client name. It is a wonderful example of the work that Karl was doing for Chanel during this time period.

The dress is made from a of a metallic gold thread set on a black silk chiffon. The effect that this gives is that it is a gold lace. You only realize that it is made of that fine gold metal thread as you get closer to it. This fabric treatment also gives it a touch of a 3D feel. Under the top part of the dress is a inset bodice made out of black silk chiffon. This leaves the upper shoulders and arms covered in just a single layer of the chiffon and gold so you get a touch of transparency there. The cut of the dress has been kept fairly simple so that the fabric can take center stage. The neckline is set slightly wide and the edges of it follow the lace pattern. The sleeves are long and the bodice is cut to skim over the buts and waist. This  then flares out to the hem of the skirt. The front is cut to a more cocktail length and this curves down into a longer back skirt that is a true maxi length by the time it reaches the longest point of the back hem. This high low cut is tremendously fabulous and it lets the dress have more range. You are able to wear it to both a less formal cocktail affair, yet it will still work for a formal event as well. It has the Chanel boutique label with a hand written label below that with the date and other information. It is beautifully made. Excellent condition

Full lined in a fine black silk chiffon with an inner chiffon bodice suspended by tiny straps and in inner silk skirt. Hand finishes. The inner bodice has its own zipper to close it and then the outer layer closes with a series of buttons and loops down the back.Buttons and loop at each cuff. Cut slightly on the bias so may come up a touch in length when on depending on your frame

Sleeves: approx 23"
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Inner bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: to 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 49" from top of shoulder to front hem, 60" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3345

Reference Photo: Ines de la Fressange models for Chanel 1986-1987 Fall-Winter collection. Photo by Pierre Vauthey.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Setting up a layaway is super easy and we are happy to provide this service!

Here's how deposits work on a standard layaway:

  • We require three equal payments of the layaway total. You will be invoiced for the first amount upon request
  • payment two of the remaining balance will be billed two weeks from the date of the initial deposit.
  • The final payment is due two weeks after the second payment and shipping will be billed on this invoice as well.
  • items less then $500, or that are on sale, require a 50% deposit with the final payment due in two weeks from the date of deposit 

Read More

We offer flat rate Standard UPS shipping worldwide. All shipping options are displayed at checkout in the pull down menus provided.

Want it faster?

We offer flat rates for expedited and express shipping options - these will also display at check out and can be selected with the drop down menu during the checkout process.

Read More


Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.