Documented 1985-1986 Emanuel Ungaro Strapless Dotted Purple Fluid Silk Dress
I had the twin of the dress ages ago and I was so pleased to find another recently. Ungaro recently passed away and that always makes you look at a designers work with a new appreciation. Ungaro launched his label in 1965 after stints at Balenciaga and Courrreges. His pret-a-porter line, Ungaro Parallele, was created in 1968. He was a brilliant designer who was known for his of colors and flamboyance. I am very please to have found a reference photo of the couture version of this dress from the Fall 1985 collection which means this RTW version was probably released that same season or the season after.
I absolutely love this Emanuel Ungaro dress. The color is wonderful. It is perfect shade of purple that is done on a fluid silk. He has used two types, a solid silk to create the pleated bust and for the skirt, the fabric has a wonderful secondary pattern of small dots woven through it. The fabric is quite light in weight so despite the elaborate construction of the dress is not heavy to wear, but it does hold the intended shape fabulously. The bodice is cut with a strapless, peaked and plunged neckline. It is elaborately pleated and fitted around the bust with hand placed and gathered folds and internal structure and light wiring. Under that the skirt is set into the bust to follow the angled line at the front. It is set in with soft gathers all around, and then wraps and closes at the back. The bodice has a touch of asymmetry to it and the way the skirt is set in subtly plays on this At the back it wraps over itself and snaps into place with a series of snaps hidden along the lower edge of the bust. This allows a bit of leg to show at the back when you walk. It is incredible. Excellent overall condition with a note to review below
Fully lined in a purple silk chiffon and closes with a back zipper for the corseted interior and then the skirt snaps into place along the seam line. There is a touch of fading to the fabric along the edge of the back panel. Please see the photo after the label shot. The corset fully zippers open and if it's not caught right the teeth can open a touch I have left it as it works fine if you just re-zip it until they catch. The bodice is boned and shaped. Hand finished
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54" from top of bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference Photo: (1) F/W 1985/86 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture Runway. / (2) F/W 85/86 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture. Photo by Hiro. / (3) F/W 85/86 Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture. Photo by Marco Glaviano.
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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