I have had a version of this dress in the past in a paler icier blue so when I saw this one with it's deep sapphire blue colour I had to have it for the shop. It is a beautiful and romantic bias cut silk chiffon dress by the great American couturier Oscar de la Renta. It is constructed from multiple layers of a lightweight, slightly textured, silk chiffon in the most stunning deep sapphire colour. The bodice of the dress is gathered in an elaborate ruching of silk that meets in the center in a thick braided detailing. This runs down the centre of the front of the bodice. The strapless neckline above that is cut into a rounded sweetheart shape that is very flattering. The bodice is fitted and cinches in at the waist with interior boning to help hold the shape. The skirt cascades to the floor at the back and at the front it curves up higher so you get a flash of leg when you move. It is made up of three full layers of weightless silk chiffon that float over and around the body to give it the feel of airiness and lightness. The lightness of the silk gives it a billowing effect when you move and walk that is stupendous. A really lovely and romantic dress in one of the best blue colours I have seen. Excellent condition

The dress is fully lined through the bodice in a hand set blue silk and the three layers of silk chiffon the skirt is made of serve as its lining. The dress closes with a side painted metal zipper. Hand finishes. I see one tiny area on the side off the skirt that has darkened. 

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 48" from top of strapless dress to back hem, 37" to the front hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3583

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress was shown on the Resort runway for 2008. In Vogue's review of the collection, journalist Nicole Phelps said in part; 'The grand theater-in-the-round setting for Oscar de la Renta's resort show put some audience members in mind of Chanel's recent presentations, but if there was a designer's influence at play in this beautiful collection, other than de la Renta's own, it could have been Yves Saint Laurent's. Loulou de la Falaise, YSL's longtime muse-turned-fellow designer, was sitting front-and-center (coincidentally, as it happened), and up on the raised platform there were seventies references'. The show was presented the same day as the 2007 CFDA Awards where Oscar de la Renta was nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year which he won (tied with Proenza Schouler).

This Oscar de la Renta dress is absolutely gorgeous. It is red carpet worthy and would even make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice. It is in immaculate condition. The dress is covered with a dense application of muted pale ivory gold round paillettes in various sizes. These are set onto the entire dress in horizontal rows from the top of the shoulder to the hem. Running around the the neckline is a dense detailing of beadwork. There is also a scattering of pearls that are set in and among the beads. The dress is made up of three layers. There is an inner ivory silk layer topped by a layer of silk tulle net. Then the very outer layer is made of an ivory silk net and it is on this top layer that that all of the sequins, pearls and beads are applied. The edges of the tulle along the neckline and around the openings for your arm are left with a deliberate raw edge. This same raw edge detailing is also done at the hem. The over-sized sequins that cover the dress vary slightly in size and in their colour. This makes the light catch the dress in a slightly different way as you move and it creates the most lovely effect. Their size creates a more overall glow effect rather then a glitzy sparkle. It is very well made and very beautiful. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a cream silk and constructed from three layers as described above. It closes at the back with a metal and nylon zipper. Tagged a size 12

Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from shoulder to front hem, 60" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2777

Reference Photos: Resort 2008 Oscar de la Renta Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1993 Oscar de la Renta took over as Creative Director at Balmain where he designed the Haute Couture collections until 2002. The house had been floundering at that point and he had a huge impact on the reviving the sales of the couture pieces, mainly by catering to private clients, much like Balmain had originally. The runway photo that we found shows the dress layered over a printed pant but all of the subsequent references of it match the set to the one we have here with the pants in the same striped silk as the top piece. The twin of this set was a part of the 2016 ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco, curated by André Leon Talley where it is referred to as being 'evening pyjamas'. The exhibit was broken into different themed galleries and this dress was a part of the garden themed section. Oscar was an avid gardener and the works in this section took inspiration from that life long passion. And it holds an extra special significance because the one shown in the exhibit was loaned to the museum by Annette de la Renta, Oscar's wife and muse, giving it an extra layer of personal connection to its provenance. The dress also appears in the book 'Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style' by Talley. The Met Museum also holds one in their permanent collections and then this one is the third.

In an interesting twist, one of the other dresses that was a part of the garden section of the exhibit was a striped OLDR dress from 1999 and my client had a that dress as well. It is listing along with this one today. It is incredible coincidence to have both dresses in at the same time with that shared bit of exhibit history behind them and both are exceptionally beautiful.

It is extraordinary to think that Oscar never produced a Haute Couture line under his own label and these few short years at Balmain gives us a chance to see just how talented he really was at all levels. Like most Haute Couture, this is a set that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body. No matter how good it looks in the photos, the impact it has in real life and how it moves once on is undeniably beautiful. The fabric that both piece are made from is a fine chine silk taffeta that hearkens back to the 18th century with its washed pale blue striping. All of the edges are finished in that same fabric but for the edges it has been tightly knife pleated. These form a wide pleated ruffle all around the collar, down the front and around each cuff. One pale baby pink stripe runs along the edge of the ruffle for a magical bit of colour against the blue. That pink is then picked up on each hand made button that runs down the front and is set on each cuff. The buttons are amazing. They are hand made and they each have a tiny, perfect sprig of hand embroidered pink flower splayed across their tops. Under the evening coat, are a pair of silk taffeta pants in the same fabric. The pants are cut very simply with a flat front and no banding at the waist. They run in a slightly tapered cigarette shape and land just about the ankle depending on your height. Over this is that amazing evening coat that has the lines of a formal court dress worked into its cut. It is created with a nod to the decadence of the eighteenth century with a high pleated collar and softly defined shoulders. The sleeves are long and slim, ending in an elaborate ruffled cuff. It skims over the bodice and tapers in at the waist. The buttons to close it run from the collar to the waist at the front. From that point under the bottom button the front is completely open so that when you walk you see the pants underneath. The back of the coat is a work of art. The skirt trails out behind you, falling from that curved horizontal seam at the waist where the fabric is gathered in soft folds. It is tremendously full and when you walk it causes the skirt to billow out behind you. Haute Couture is always about the details and I love that for the seam that runs across the low back, Oscar used a fine pink silk piping to define the seam and where the gathers of the lower skirting are set. It is the perfect detail to tie in with the pink at the front. This is everything you want to see in a Haute Couture piece; elegance, refinement and a dash of coquetry. It is ornate but sophisticated and feels wonderfully light and perfectly suited to his love of nature and botanical themes. “A garden is probably the most spiritual and pure of joys. It’s a communion with nature and beauty in the most simple and fundamental form.”– Oscar de la Renta. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition. 

Both pieces are unlined and all the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. The pants close with a hidden set side zipper. There is a built in gusset that is pristine. The evening coat/dress closes with a hand set zipper and then a panel that snaps into place over that with silk, hand covered snaps. Hand made, light shoulder pads. A series of hand embroidered buttons down the front. The inner waist stay hooks to close and you could adjust the hooks if needed or wear it unhooked if you needed the extra room. Each cuff zips to close with a hidden set zipper and has three of the same buttons as decoration. I see one pinhead mar near a front button and a nick out of the fabric near the seam under the arm. One inner seam on either side looks like it was slightly adjusted. There is an extra button sewn to an inner seam. Proper Couture tags on both pieces and the coat one has its couture tape underneath numbered 173 470. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client 

Evening Coat Dress
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 15.25"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam, inner waist stay hooks at 14"
Hips: open
Length: 56" from neck to shortest point of the front hem, 62" to longest point of the back hem

Pant
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 28" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3568

Reference Photos: (1) 1998 Balmain Silk taffeta coat and pants from the book "Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style" by Andre Leon Talley.  /  (2) 1998 Balmain Ensemble from The MET Collection Online.  /  (3-4) Spring 1998 Balmain Haute Couture Runway. / (5-6) Photos from the ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco. Curated by André Leon Talley.  /  (7) Photo from the book "Oscar De La Renta: The Retrospective" by Jennifer Park and Molly Sorkin.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This billowing silk taffeta dress and pant sent was shown in two color-ways on the Spring 1999 runway; this green and taupe set and a blue stripe and yellow pant version that has a slightly different sleeve. The twin of the blue version was exhibited as a part of the 2016 ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco, curated by André Leon Talley. The exhibit was broken into different themed galleries and this dress was a part of the garden themed section. Oscar was an avid gardener and the works in this section took inspiration from that life long passion.  “A garden is probably the most spiritual and pure of joys. It’s a communion with nature and beauty in the most simple and fundamental form.”– Oscar de la Renta.

In an interesting twist, one of the other dresses that was a part of the garden section of the exhibit was a pale blue striped Haute Couture Balmain dress designed by Oscar and my client had a that dress as well. It is listing along with this one today. It is incredible coincidence to have both dresses in at the same time with that shared bit of exhibition history behind them and both are exceptionally beautiful.

It is interesting to see the cross over from the earlier Balmain piece to this one. Variations on the striped silk taffeta fabric was central to the theme of many of his pieces during this time period. This is definitely one of the most dramatic. The silk is light in weight so that when you walk in this it billows out behind you in the most fantastical kind of way. It is exceptionally long so you get a serious dose of drama behind you that I love. The impact it has in real life and how it moves once on is undeniably beautiful. It is made up of two pieces. The green and ivory striped silk overdress and pair of slim taupe silk taffeta pants that go underneath. The pants are cut very simply with a flat front and no waist banding. They run in a slightly tapered cigarette shape and land just about the ankle depending on your height. Over this is that amazing open front dress. It really needs an actual body under it to truly bring it to life and you can see how it will sit once on from the runway reference photo. It is cut to be very loose and easy. The dress part of this set should fit almost any size and body type as it is deliberately cut full and oversized. The entire edge of the neckline is elastic and finished with a ruffle above that. It slips on over the head and the elastic allows you to pull it down the shoulders leaving a bare expanse of skin. Each sleeve is cut to be incredibly wide and full. It is open through the bust with a row of silk covered buttons and loops running down the centre. The buttons end above the top of the pants so that you get a peak of skin showing between. The body of the dress drops to about the hips and then the skirt is set into that in a curving, ruffled detailed seam that wraps around and dips slightly at the back. The lower skirts are tremendously full and they are cut to trail out behind you in the most fantastical, high drama way. The dress is at its original unaltered length. The fabric is so light that it billows and puffs out around you at the slightest bit of movement. It is dramatic but feels wonderfully light once on. It is perfectly suited to his love of nature and botanical themes. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition with a small note below. 

Both pieces are unlined. The pants close with a hidden set back zipper. The outer dress slips on and closes at the front with hand covered silk buttons and loops. I see some scuffing and storage marks near the hem of the back skirt. All are minor and they get lost in the extreme length and amount of fabric. I photoed the worst one and that shot is after the photo of the label. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. Both tags are hand numbered 2256. Sourced from the original couture client. If the pants did not work size wise it would be easy to wear something different under it as the over dress should fit a large range of sizes as it is open through the entire body and generously cut. 

Dress
Bust-hips: open
Length: approx 64" from neck to shortest point of the front hem, 84" to longest point of the back hem

Pant
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: Pants SML-MED, Over dress OSFA

Item# DD3570

Reference Photos: (1) Spring 1999 Oscar De La Renta Runway.  /  (2-4) Photos from the ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco. Curated by André Leon Talley.  /  (5) Photo from the book "Oscar De La Renta: The Retrospective" by Jennifer Park and Molly Sorkin.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress was shown on the Resort runway for 2008 and was Look 56. In Vogues review of the collection, journalist Nicole Phelps said in part; 'The grand theater-in-the-round setting for Oscar de la Renta's resort show put some audience members in mind of Chanel's recent presentations, but if there was a designer's influence at play in this beautiful collection, other than de la Renta's own, it could have been Yves Saint Laurent's. Loulou de la Falaise, YSL's longtime muse-turned-fellow designer, was sitting front-and-center (coincidentally, as it happened), and up on the raised platform there were seventies references' she went on to mention this dress in particular saying; 'And as for those evening gowns, a pair of printed chiné taffeta dresses (one in marigold, another in coral) may have had the front-row lovelies—Renée Rockefeller, Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer—reconsidering their outfits for tonight's CFDA Awards, where, of course, de la Renta is nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year.'

The dress dies have a nod to the work of YSL who did several dress in the 1970s in this same silhouette that is caught up at the bust and then widen out as it nears the floor with a longer back then front. This silhouette is marvellously falter on and easy to wear. It also creates the most beautiful lines as you walk away and the skirt and back pillow out and trail behind you. It is made out of a bright coral silk hat has a slight iridescent quality to the finish. The very upper bodice is fitted and wide starts curve up and around each shoulder. Under that it is all volume and drama. The dress has a ton of volume to it that shows best when you move. It has three sets of ruffled tiers that fall softly to the floor. The lightness of the silk causes the on the skirt to billow out and move with the slightest bit of air. When this is on and you are walking the effect that this creates is absolutely gorgeous. The back of the skier is longer then the front and I took some shots of it from the side so you can see how it curves down and back. The runway references also show this beautifully. I love how each there is defined by that gathered ruffle and the entire bottom hem is a wider version of the same. This extra little detail is fabulous and adds an extra element of romance and femininity. This is Oscar at his best and a tremendously beautiful dress. The dress was never worn and still has its original tags. Excellent condition. 

Fully lined in a matching coral silk.  It closes with a hidden set side zipper. Tagged a size 6. All original tags and unworn. The colour is slightly less vivid in person and even better.

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist - hips: open
Length: 52" from top of shoulder to shortest point of the front hem, 62" to the longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3563

Reference Photos: Emina Cunmulaj for the Resort 2008, Look 56, Oscar de la Renta Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I have had a version of this dress in the past in a paler icier blue so when I saw this one with it's deep sapphire blue colour I had to have it for the shop. It is a beautiful and romantic bias cut silk chiffon dress by the great American couturier Oscar de la Renta. It is constructed from multiple layers of a lightweight, slightly textured, silk chiffon in the most stunning deep sapphire colour. The bodice of the dress is gathered in an elaborate ruching of silk that meets in the center in a thick braided detailing. This runs down the centre of the front of the bodice. The strapless neckline above that is cut into a rounded sweetheart shape that is very flattering. The bodice is fitted and cinches in at the waist with interior boning to help hold the shape. The skirt cascades to the floor at the back and at the front it curves up higher so you get a flash of leg when you move. It is made up of three full layers of weightless silk chiffon that float over and around the body to give it the feel of airiness and lightness. The lightness of the silk gives it a billowing effect when you move and walk that is stupendous. A really lovely and romantic dress in one of the best blue colours I have seen. Excellent condition

The dress is fully lined through the bodice in a hand set blue silk and the three layers of silk chiffon the skirt is made of serve as its lining. The dress closes with a side painted metal zipper. Hand finishes. I see one tiny area on the side off the skirt that has darkened. 

Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 48" from top of strapless dress to back hem, 37" to the front hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3583

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress was shown on the Resort runway for 2008. In Vogue's review of the collection, journalist Nicole Phelps said in part; 'The grand theater-in-the-round setting for Oscar de la Renta's resort show put some audience members in mind of Chanel's recent presentations, but if there was a designer's influence at play in this beautiful collection, other than de la Renta's own, it could have been Yves Saint Laurent's. Loulou de la Falaise, YSL's longtime muse-turned-fellow designer, was sitting front-and-center (coincidentally, as it happened), and up on the raised platform there were seventies references'. The show was presented the same day as the 2007 CFDA Awards where Oscar de la Renta was nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year which he won (tied with Proenza Schouler).

This Oscar de la Renta dress is absolutely gorgeous. It is red carpet worthy and would even make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice. It is in immaculate condition. The dress is covered with a dense application of muted pale ivory gold round paillettes in various sizes. These are set onto the entire dress in horizontal rows from the top of the shoulder to the hem. Running around the the neckline is a dense detailing of beadwork. There is also a scattering of pearls that are set in and among the beads. The dress is made up of three layers. There is an inner ivory silk layer topped by a layer of silk tulle net. Then the very outer layer is made of an ivory silk net and it is on this top layer that that all of the sequins, pearls and beads are applied. The edges of the tulle along the neckline and around the openings for your arm are left with a deliberate raw edge. This same raw edge detailing is also done at the hem. The over-sized sequins that cover the dress vary slightly in size and in their colour. This makes the light catch the dress in a slightly different way as you move and it creates the most lovely effect. Their size creates a more overall glow effect rather then a glitzy sparkle. It is very well made and very beautiful. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.

Fully lined in a cream silk and constructed from three layers as described above. It closes at the back with a metal and nylon zipper. Tagged a size 12

Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from shoulder to front hem, 60" to back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD2777

Reference Photos: Resort 2008 Oscar de la Renta Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

In 1993 Oscar de la Renta took over as Creative Director at Balmain where he designed the Haute Couture collections until 2002. The house had been floundering at that point and he had a huge impact on the reviving the sales of the couture pieces, mainly by catering to private clients, much like Balmain had originally. The runway photo that we found shows the dress layered over a printed pant but all of the subsequent references of it match the set to the one we have here with the pants in the same striped silk as the top piece. The twin of this set was a part of the 2016 ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco, curated by André Leon Talley where it is referred to as being 'evening pyjamas'. The exhibit was broken into different themed galleries and this dress was a part of the garden themed section. Oscar was an avid gardener and the works in this section took inspiration from that life long passion. And it holds an extra special significance because the one shown in the exhibit was loaned to the museum by Annette de la Renta, Oscar's wife and muse, giving it an extra layer of personal connection to its provenance. The dress also appears in the book 'Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style' by Talley. The Met Museum also holds one in their permanent collections and then this one is the third.

In an interesting twist, one of the other dresses that was a part of the garden section of the exhibit was a striped OLDR dress from 1999 and my client had a that dress as well. It is listing along with this one today. It is incredible coincidence to have both dresses in at the same time with that shared bit of exhibit history behind them and both are exceptionally beautiful.

It is extraordinary to think that Oscar never produced a Haute Couture line under his own label and these few short years at Balmain gives us a chance to see just how talented he really was at all levels. Like most Haute Couture, this is a set that only truly comes to life when it is on an actual body. No matter how good it looks in the photos, the impact it has in real life and how it moves once on is undeniably beautiful. The fabric that both piece are made from is a fine chine silk taffeta that hearkens back to the 18th century with its washed pale blue striping. All of the edges are finished in that same fabric but for the edges it has been tightly knife pleated. These form a wide pleated ruffle all around the collar, down the front and around each cuff. One pale baby pink stripe runs along the edge of the ruffle for a magical bit of colour against the blue. That pink is then picked up on each hand made button that runs down the front and is set on each cuff. The buttons are amazing. They are hand made and they each have a tiny, perfect sprig of hand embroidered pink flower splayed across their tops. Under the evening coat, are a pair of silk taffeta pants in the same fabric. The pants are cut very simply with a flat front and no banding at the waist. They run in a slightly tapered cigarette shape and land just about the ankle depending on your height. Over this is that amazing evening coat that has the lines of a formal court dress worked into its cut. It is created with a nod to the decadence of the eighteenth century with a high pleated collar and softly defined shoulders. The sleeves are long and slim, ending in an elaborate ruffled cuff. It skims over the bodice and tapers in at the waist. The buttons to close it run from the collar to the waist at the front. From that point under the bottom button the front is completely open so that when you walk you see the pants underneath. The back of the coat is a work of art. The skirt trails out behind you, falling from that curved horizontal seam at the waist where the fabric is gathered in soft folds. It is tremendously full and when you walk it causes the skirt to billow out behind you. Haute Couture is always about the details and I love that for the seam that runs across the low back, Oscar used a fine pink silk piping to define the seam and where the gathers of the lower skirting are set. It is the perfect detail to tie in with the pink at the front. This is everything you want to see in a Haute Couture piece; elegance, refinement and a dash of coquetry. It is ornate but sophisticated and feels wonderfully light and perfectly suited to his love of nature and botanical themes. “A garden is probably the most spiritual and pure of joys. It’s a communion with nature and beauty in the most simple and fundamental form.”– Oscar de la Renta. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition. 

Both pieces are unlined and all the interior work is done by hand to Haute Couture standards. The pants close with a hidden set side zipper. There is a built in gusset that is pristine. The evening coat/dress closes with a hand set zipper and then a panel that snaps into place over that with silk, hand covered snaps. Hand made, light shoulder pads. A series of hand embroidered buttons down the front. The inner waist stay hooks to close and you could adjust the hooks if needed or wear it unhooked if you needed the extra room. Each cuff zips to close with a hidden set zipper and has three of the same buttons as decoration. I see one pinhead mar near a front button and a nick out of the fabric near the seam under the arm. One inner seam on either side looks like it was slightly adjusted. There is an extra button sewn to an inner seam. Proper Couture tags on both pieces and the coat one has its couture tape underneath numbered 173 470. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Sourced from the original couture client 

Evening Coat Dress
Sleeves: 23.5"
Shoulders: 15.25"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15" flat across from side seam to side seam, inner waist stay hooks at 14"
Hips: open
Length: 56" from neck to shortest point of the front hem, 62" to longest point of the back hem

Pant
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 28" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3568

Reference Photos: (1) 1998 Balmain Silk taffeta coat and pants from the book "Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style" by Andre Leon Talley.  /  (2) 1998 Balmain Ensemble from The MET Collection Online.  /  (3-4) Spring 1998 Balmain Haute Couture Runway. / (5-6) Photos from the ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco. Curated by André Leon Talley.  /  (7) Photo from the book "Oscar De La Renta: The Retrospective" by Jennifer Park and Molly Sorkin.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This billowing silk taffeta dress and pant sent was shown in two color-ways on the Spring 1999 runway; this green and taupe set and a blue stripe and yellow pant version that has a slightly different sleeve. The twin of the blue version was exhibited as a part of the 2016 ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco, curated by André Leon Talley. The exhibit was broken into different themed galleries and this dress was a part of the garden themed section. Oscar was an avid gardener and the works in this section took inspiration from that life long passion.  “A garden is probably the most spiritual and pure of joys. It’s a communion with nature and beauty in the most simple and fundamental form.”– Oscar de la Renta.

In an interesting twist, one of the other dresses that was a part of the garden section of the exhibit was a pale blue striped Haute Couture Balmain dress designed by Oscar and my client had a that dress as well. It is listing along with this one today. It is incredible coincidence to have both dresses in at the same time with that shared bit of exhibition history behind them and both are exceptionally beautiful.

It is interesting to see the cross over from the earlier Balmain piece to this one. Variations on the striped silk taffeta fabric was central to the theme of many of his pieces during this time period. This is definitely one of the most dramatic. The silk is light in weight so that when you walk in this it billows out behind you in the most fantastical kind of way. It is exceptionally long so you get a serious dose of drama behind you that I love. The impact it has in real life and how it moves once on is undeniably beautiful. It is made up of two pieces. The green and ivory striped silk overdress and pair of slim taupe silk taffeta pants that go underneath. The pants are cut very simply with a flat front and no waist banding. They run in a slightly tapered cigarette shape and land just about the ankle depending on your height. Over this is that amazing open front dress. It really needs an actual body under it to truly bring it to life and you can see how it will sit once on from the runway reference photo. It is cut to be very loose and easy. The dress part of this set should fit almost any size and body type as it is deliberately cut full and oversized. The entire edge of the neckline is elastic and finished with a ruffle above that. It slips on over the head and the elastic allows you to pull it down the shoulders leaving a bare expanse of skin. Each sleeve is cut to be incredibly wide and full. It is open through the bust with a row of silk covered buttons and loops running down the centre. The buttons end above the top of the pants so that you get a peak of skin showing between. The body of the dress drops to about the hips and then the skirt is set into that in a curving, ruffled detailed seam that wraps around and dips slightly at the back. The lower skirts are tremendously full and they are cut to trail out behind you in the most fantastical, high drama way. The dress is at its original unaltered length. The fabric is so light that it billows and puffs out around you at the slightest bit of movement. It is dramatic but feels wonderfully light once on. It is perfectly suited to his love of nature and botanical themes. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition with a small note below. 

Both pieces are unlined. The pants close with a hidden set back zipper. The outer dress slips on and closes at the front with hand covered silk buttons and loops. I see some scuffing and storage marks near the hem of the back skirt. All are minor and they get lost in the extreme length and amount of fabric. I photoed the worst one and that shot is after the photo of the label. It otherwise appears to have been worn very little if at all. Both tags are hand numbered 2256. Sourced from the original couture client. If the pants did not work size wise it would be easy to wear something different under it as the over dress should fit a large range of sizes as it is open through the entire body and generously cut. 

Dress
Bust-hips: open
Length: approx 64" from neck to shortest point of the front hem, 84" to longest point of the back hem

Pant
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: Pants SML-MED, Over dress OSFA

Item# DD3570

Reference Photos: (1) Spring 1999 Oscar De La Renta Runway.  /  (2-4) Photos from the ‘Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective’ exhibition at de Young Museum, San Francisco. Curated by André Leon Talley.  /  (5) Photo from the book "Oscar De La Renta: The Retrospective" by Jennifer Park and Molly Sorkin.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The twin of this dress was shown on the Resort runway for 2008 and was Look 56. In Vogues review of the collection, journalist Nicole Phelps said in part; 'The grand theater-in-the-round setting for Oscar de la Renta's resort show put some audience members in mind of Chanel's recent presentations, but if there was a designer's influence at play in this beautiful collection, other than de la Renta's own, it could have been Yves Saint Laurent's. Loulou de la Falaise, YSL's longtime muse-turned-fellow designer, was sitting front-and-center (coincidentally, as it happened), and up on the raised platform there were seventies references' she went on to mention this dress in particular saying; 'And as for those evening gowns, a pair of printed chiné taffeta dresses (one in marigold, another in coral) may have had the front-row lovelies—Renée Rockefeller, Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer—reconsidering their outfits for tonight's CFDA Awards, where, of course, de la Renta is nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year.'

The dress dies have a nod to the work of YSL who did several dress in the 1970s in this same silhouette that is caught up at the bust and then widen out as it nears the floor with a longer back then front. This silhouette is marvellously falter on and easy to wear. It also creates the most beautiful lines as you walk away and the skirt and back pillow out and trail behind you. It is made out of a bright coral silk hat has a slight iridescent quality to the finish. The very upper bodice is fitted and wide starts curve up and around each shoulder. Under that it is all volume and drama. The dress has a ton of volume to it that shows best when you move. It has three sets of ruffled tiers that fall softly to the floor. The lightness of the silk causes the on the skirt to billow out and move with the slightest bit of air. When this is on and you are walking the effect that this creates is absolutely gorgeous. The back of the skier is longer then the front and I took some shots of it from the side so you can see how it curves down and back. The runway references also show this beautifully. I love how each there is defined by that gathered ruffle and the entire bottom hem is a wider version of the same. This extra little detail is fabulous and adds an extra element of romance and femininity. This is Oscar at his best and a tremendously beautiful dress. The dress was never worn and still has its original tags. Excellent condition. 

Fully lined in a matching coral silk.  It closes with a hidden set side zipper. Tagged a size 6. All original tags and unworn. The colour is slightly less vivid in person and even better.

Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist - hips: open
Length: 52" from top of shoulder to shortest point of the front hem, 62" to the longest point at the back

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD3563

Reference Photos: Emina Cunmulaj for the Resort 2008, Look 56, Oscar de la Renta Runway Collection.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.